1 man Brake Bleeding without speed or power bleeding
Dec 2, 2011, 10:35 AM
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1 man Brake Bleeding without speed or power bleeding
I've been doing a lot of research on bleeding brakes and it seems there are many theories of why one is better than the other.
Not sure what all the fuss is about with speed bleeders and power (pressure) bleeding. It seems so unnecessary compared to this method.
The cons with the speed bleeders is that some are experiencing a bit of air going back in as the "ball, plunger" moves back in.
With the Power Bleeder (motive, etc) some are saying when you pressurize a bottle with fluid and air, logic tells you that it'll mix (if even microscopically)
Now I'm not sure what this method is called (maybe gravity feed?) but it seems too simple (and easy on the pocket) to ignore.
All you need is a 2-liter bottle, drill 2 holes on top cap. One smaller for the vent and the other a 3/16" hole for the 3/16" ID plastic tube. Run the tube down the cap and into brake fluid.
Run the other side of the tube into the valve and pump brakes a couple of times. Check fluid level and refill.
NO air will go back into brake system as the tube is always submerged in brake fluid.
THIS acts like a ONE WAY (air) VALVE
GOOD ANALOGY: drinking soda thru a straw... air won't go back up if it's submerged
Not sure what all the fuss is about with speed bleeders and power (pressure) bleeding. It seems so unnecessary compared to this method.
The cons with the speed bleeders is that some are experiencing a bit of air going back in as the "ball, plunger" moves back in.
With the Power Bleeder (motive, etc) some are saying when you pressurize a bottle with fluid and air, logic tells you that it'll mix (if even microscopically)
Now I'm not sure what this method is called (maybe gravity feed?) but it seems too simple (and easy on the pocket) to ignore.
All you need is a 2-liter bottle, drill 2 holes on top cap. One smaller for the vent and the other a 3/16" hole for the 3/16" ID plastic tube. Run the tube down the cap and into brake fluid.
Run the other side of the tube into the valve and pump brakes a couple of times. Check fluid level and refill.
NO air will go back into brake system as the tube is always submerged in brake fluid.
THIS acts like a ONE WAY (air) VALVE
GOOD ANALOGY: drinking soda thru a straw... air won't go back up if it's submerged
Last edited by sna08; Dec 2, 2011 at 11:05 AM.
Dec 2, 2011, 10:45 AM
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There is more than one way to skin a cat. whatever works for you and you're comfortable doing then do it so long as you get the results you're after.
I use the motive power bleeder with speed bleeders on each caliper (8 total) and one on the clutch slave. for me, bleeding this way is a snap. It takes more time to get the car in the air and get the wheels off than it does to do the actual bleeding. I've been doing it this way for years and never had an issue. That doesn't mean its the ONLY way to bleed brakes and it doesn't mean its the best way either, but for me it works. YMMV
I use the motive power bleeder with speed bleeders on each caliper (8 total) and one on the clutch slave. for me, bleeding this way is a snap. It takes more time to get the car in the air and get the wheels off than it does to do the actual bleeding. I've been doing it this way for years and never had an issue. That doesn't mean its the ONLY way to bleed brakes and it doesn't mean its the best way either, but for me it works. YMMV
Dec 2, 2011, 11:00 AM
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There is more than one way to skin a cat. whatever works for you and you're comfortable doing then do it so long as you get the results you're after.
I use the motive power bleeder with speed bleeders on each caliper (8 total) and one on the clutch slave. for me, bleeding this way is a snap. It takes more time to get the car in the air and get the wheels off than it does to do the actual bleeding. I've been doing it this way for years and never had an issue. That doesn't mean its the ONLY way to bleed brakes and it doesn't mean its the best way either, but for me it works. YMMV
I use the motive power bleeder with speed bleeders on each caliper (8 total) and one on the clutch slave. for me, bleeding this way is a snap. It takes more time to get the car in the air and get the wheels off than it does to do the actual bleeding. I've been doing it this way for years and never had an issue. That doesn't mean its the ONLY way to bleed brakes and it doesn't mean its the best way either, but for me it works. YMMV
What I'm saying is that there's a lot of confusion to the bleeding method when I first started to research on it.
BTW, If you already have pressure in the lines using your Motive, why the need for a 1 way check valve? Do the Motive have to be continually pumped often?
Dec 2, 2011, 11:20 AM
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Of course, to all their own.
What I'm saying is that there's a lot of confusion to the bleeding method when I first started to research on it.
BTW, If you already have pressure in the lines using your Motive, why the need for a 1 way check valve? Do the Motive have to be continually pumped often?
What I'm saying is that there's a lot of confusion to the bleeding method when I first started to research on it.
BTW, If you already have pressure in the lines using your Motive, why the need for a 1 way check valve? Do the Motive have to be continually pumped often?
Dec 3, 2011, 11:58 AM
#6
Of course, to all their own.
What I'm saying is that there's a lot of confusion to the bleeding method when I first started to research on it.
BTW, If you already have pressure in the lines using your Motive, why the need for a 1 way check valve? Do the Motive have to be continually pumped often?
What I'm saying is that there's a lot of confusion to the bleeding method when I first started to research on it.
BTW, If you already have pressure in the lines using your Motive, why the need for a 1 way check valve? Do the Motive have to be continually pumped often?
There are lots of ways to do this process. The BG machines I used at the dealership pressurized the fluid and used a vacuum pump on the other end to help suck out the fluid coming out the bleeder nipple. I have also used similar machines to the motive, all work well.
I do enough fluid flushes and track/autox events where I dont mind investing in a diaphragm type brake bleeder that pressurizes the fluid in a separate chamber that the air is in. They are quite a bit more than a motive but they also come in a steel container and are very durable.
Dec 3, 2011, 09:59 PM
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Yeah shops have to be speedy at those things I'm sure.
But the 2 man seems to be more popular than the 1 man method for the DIY for some reason...
But the 2 man seems to be more popular than the 1 man method for the DIY for some reason...
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Dec 4, 2011, 07:28 PM
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So I researched some more and this isn't gravity fed because your still pumping the brakes. Anybody know if this will get air out of the brake lines?
Dec 4, 2011, 08:45 PM
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of course it gets the air out. like they said above it all does the same thing. also, like you said, you cant suck air up because the tip is submerged in fluid like a straw.
because of gravity and the fluid reservoir, it is easier for the fluid to flow down rather than the caliper sucking it back up. so you really get the same thing either way, again like you said, the bottle acts like a 1way valve.
because of gravity and the fluid reservoir, it is easier for the fluid to flow down rather than the caliper sucking it back up. so you really get the same thing either way, again like you said, the bottle acts like a 1way valve.
Dec 6, 2011, 08:22 PM
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I tried this method and it does work to flush out fluid but not great to get the last bit of air out... Unless you thread it with the Teflon tape.... The problem here is that as you close valve the air goes into the thread somehow... Wiki says this... Thanks all
Dec 6, 2011, 08:27 PM
#13
wait, so if your lines already have air in them, pumping them will force out fluid with the air into that tube.. so when you lift the pedal to pump again, without closing the valve on the caliper, it will just suck it back into the brake lines along with more fluid
am i wrong?
am i wrong?
Dec 6, 2011, 08:54 PM
#14
Put grease around the treads after u open it.
Dec 7, 2011, 11:41 AM
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wait, so if your lines already have air in them, pumping them will force out fluid with the air into that tube.. so when you lift the pedal to pump again, without closing the valve on the caliper, it will just suck it back into the brake lines along with more fluid
am i wrong?
am i wrong?
http://pstca.com/articles/bleed/balloon.htm
It uses a balloon as a true one way valve. Air will most likely not go in when you release pedal because fluid will be drawn more from reservoir which has less resistance than the tube with the balloon.