MISHI

iTrader: (6)

It's not supposed to... The boosters do carry an adjuster inside of it but it's hardly unlikely that that would move on its own: As well you'd have to remove the brake master cylinder to get to it.

On the pedal if you're getting 2 play movemens then that's fine; one would be play from the clevis pin and the other is the actual play to the rod. So that is ruled out...

The only other suggestion is as to what todd has said: calipers could be sticking (though I still can't really understand why) But here's the mitsubishi procedure for it:

sna08

iTrader: (3)

Check Master piston return spring and port for clogging? Would you happen to have diagrams of these mishi? Thanks for helping me out man.

sna08

iTrader: (3)

I'm planning to also do a bleed tomorrow and I ordered the caliper seal kit from Subaru which is a lot cheaper than Mitsu

sna08

iTrader: (3)

Ok so i remember doing step 8 which is to depress brakes and check wheel for spinning and it didn't spin so maybe I do have stuck pistons... Come to think of it the inside of my pads were quite thinner than the outside when it was replaced. So maybe the inside are sticking a bit?

MISHI

iTrader: (6)

AHHHH there you go. Sticking calipers. Gimme a sec I'll get back to you

sillyme

have the front end jacked up and the wheels move kind of freely, very slight drag. then i have my girl press the brakes locks right up. then i told her to let go and the wheel moves freely again with a slight drag. is that the same situation you have. trying to figure my problem out too. check e-brake OK, check front caliper pistons OK. the only thing i could think of is new rotors and pads maybe a little too thick that causes dragging.

sna08

iTrader: (3)

In your case maybe but I didn't get new rotors. I changed pad ds2500, got lots of squeal, bled brakes, now its dragging. Enough to stop on its own at 5 mph. With front jacked up I stepped on brake and spin wheel, does not spin nor move. Gonna bleed brakes again this morning and see if that'll work I did order a new brake seal kit but it hasn't come in yet.

cfdfireman1

iTrader: (11)

bleeding brakes won't cause them to drag, just won't happen. check to see which wheel is dragging and disassemble that pad set and see if they are lubed properly and move freely.

sna08

iTrader: (3)

Update Brakes DON'T drag anymore...

I did another bleed with a lot of fluid to make sure there was no air. Now it's not as firm as it was when it was dragging so I'm not sure how firm it's suppose to be. I'll see how it goes for a couple days thanks all.

sillyme

I thought the same too. jack up the whole front end and spin the wheels and make sure the brake pads don't drag. you will hear and feel it when spinning the wheels by hand

MISHI

iTrader: (6)

Good to hear. keep us informed on the progress...

weaselandahalf

My only guess would be that during your first bleed, when you pressed the pedal all the way down, the gunk that builds up in the unused portion of your master cylinder (the portion that normally has no piston/seal travel under normal braking) was wedged in some way that held your brakes on a very small amount. Considering that the pistons in the master cylinder only move one or two inches, it wouldn't take much for them to be off zero. When you flushed the brakes again you probably dislodged it and fixed the problem.

This is pretty far fetched, but there's nothing else that explains why it got better after another flush...unless you just got lucky and a sticky caliper piston/slider got better, etc.

In for updates.

sna08

iTrader: (3)

I think your on to something. I did see floating particles in my brake fluid that didn't seem right. It looked like flakes. Everything is back to its squealing self again... I just built myself a power bleeder so I'll bleed it again and see if there's any more of those particles I saw the first time I did it.

sna08

iTrader: (3)

Lol sounds like you had experience with this?

weaselandahalf

Not much, I just have a good teacher and good memory lol