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DME control arms?

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Old May 15, 2012 | 06:20 PM
  #31  
03whitegsr's Avatar
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The camber bolts suck...

If you are going to an adjustable link, I'd do a fixed position bushing and normal bolts with it.
Old May 21, 2012 | 11:37 AM
  #32  
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So i finally got the Agency Power control arms on and the evo aligned after waiting for the control arm bolts to come in (they were frozen).
Here is a list of what I replaced the control arm bolts with (you will need two sets of these)
  • MB856459 -BOLT,RR SUSP LWR ARM (LOWER ARM ASSEMBLY MOUNTING BOLT) @ 5.81 each
  • MR171026 -PLATE,RR SUSP LWR ARM @ 9.06 each
  • MU430003 -NUT,RR SUSP LWR ARM @ 1.84 each
  • MS450044 -WASHER,RR SUSP LWR ARMSPRING @ 1.46.each

When installing be sure to torque appropriately. Here are the specs:
Control Arm & Trailing Arm Torque Specs

After I got it back from the alignment, I was told that the Toe Bolt is also frozen and they cannot get it exactly to my specs, but got it as close as they could.

They had no problem with the control arms and even commented on them being very nice. I do like the ride with them and I know that I'll be able to adjust a lot more for track days and such if needed.

I went to firestone (I have the lifetime alignment package) and gave them my daily driving specs. Here is a pic I snapped of my daily driving specs and also my before and after alignment (with the frozen toe bolt).
DME control arms?-yijod.jpg

I'll update with the before and after's after I get a new toe bolt. I wasn't sure which bolt this was, but after looking at the manual, it is these part numbers:

Attachment 337072

MB856488 - 41604C BOLT,RR SUSP ASSIST LINK
MR171026 - 41636 PLATE,RR SUSP ASSIST LINK
MS450044 - 41606C WASHER,RR SUSP ASSIST LINK
MU430003 - 41605C NUT,RR SUSP ASSIST LINK
Old May 21, 2012 | 01:31 PM
  #33  
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From: WAR EAGLE!
^ those are going to bend at their turnbuckle... then you won't be able to adjust them as they shorten themselves! haha.
Old May 21, 2012 | 02:02 PM
  #34  
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i'd get a new alignment guy. if mine gave me my car back like that, i'd slap him across the face.
Old May 21, 2012 | 02:05 PM
  #35  
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From: WAR EAGLE!
yeah it's not the best alignment, but sometimes you get what you pay for.

I'm looking at getting the Longacre setup so I can do my own alignments!
Old May 21, 2012 | 02:10 PM
  #36  
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From: milwaukee, wi
Originally Posted by R/TErnie
yeah it's not the best alignment, but sometimes you get what you pay for.

I'm looking at getting the Longacre setup so I can do my own alignments!
im lucky to have an awesome guy fairly local. nails any spec i want and its typically $50 cash. he even asks if i want to sit in the car while he does it.
Old May 21, 2012 | 02:18 PM
  #37  
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the toe bolt is frozen.. and can't adjust to exact specs, so they adjusted to the closest they could.. am i missing something? getting parts on order for the toe bolt.
Old May 21, 2012 | 05:06 PM
  #38  
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From: milwaukee, wi
Originally Posted by wickdaddy
the toe bolt is frozen.. and can't adjust to exact specs, so they adjusted to the closest they could.. am i missing something? getting parts on order for the toe bolt.
even the front, the camber and toe could be dialed in closer side to side. its not terrible but im ocd and stuff like that bug me.
Old May 21, 2012 | 05:45 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by R/TErnie
yeah it's not the best alignment, but sometimes you get what you pay for.

I'm looking at getting the Longacre setup so I can do my own alignments!
Doing your own alignments is fairly easy if you take the time to recheck your measurements.

I do mine with string and a digital smart camber gauge. All you need is a flat floor and garbage bags incase you don't have spreader/turn plates

Old May 22, 2012 | 08:25 AM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by R/TErnie
yeah it's not the best alignment, but sometimes you get what you pay for.

I'm looking at getting the Longacre setup so I can do my own alignments!
I have the Longacre Camber Caster with quickset pro. Let me know if/when you want to borrow it. I haven't even had a chance to use it yet.
Old May 22, 2012 | 08:45 AM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by R/TErnie
^ those are going to bend at their turnbuckle... then you won't be able to adjust them as they shorten themselves! haha.
The AP lower arms bend? That's no good.


I need to start doing my own alignments as well. The guy I normally use does a great job of hitting my specs, but he over torques everything and ruins the eccentric hardware in the back so I have to replace it EVERY TIME I get a new alignment.
Old May 22, 2012 | 09:49 AM
  #42  
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From: WAR EAGLE!
Originally Posted by 03whitegsr
The AP lower arms bend? That's no good.


I need to start doing my own alignments as well. The guy I normally use does a great job of hitting my specs, but he over torques everything and ruins the eccentric hardware in the back so I have to replace it EVERY TIME I get a new alignment.
I've had probably 15 alignments in the past 4 years and my eccentric hardware is just now taking a dive. I've had a good friend do my alignments on the Hunter alignment rack at the Nissan Dealership (for the GT-R). He's hit my alignment specs within .1 degrees everytime. He no longer works there...and I need to find a way to experiment on my own and make setup changes at the track quickly and effectively.
Old May 29, 2013 | 06:22 PM
  #43  
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From: Marietta GA
Originally Posted by nollij
This is not a very difficult thought experiment if you only think about 1 control arm at a time.

Ideally, you could use the adjustable rod lengths to get the static alignment you desire and the eccentric bolts to get the dynamic changes you desire or to tune them out. IE, for the rear bumpsteer you could always get a larger eccentric and push an adjustable toe rod arm either higher or lower depending on the rate of toe in you want under compression. Or, you could get the dynamic changes as close to 0 during compression.

Same thing for the adjustable camber arm. You can get a larger eccentric bolt and push it farther up/down depending on what you want the change to be under compression. You could potentially setup the camber arm to increase camber during compression if you push it south of lateral. Granted, I do not know what forces this would place upon the arm and the other suspension components that may not have been designed to be loaded in that manner.
Robi does this he uses the eccentric bushing from Whiteline in two places on the rear suspension
this i know as my car was originally setup by him back in 2006 and it has four of those in there.

For sure by using the eccentric offset you can lower or raise the pivot point on that arm and then use the factory eccentric bolts to dial in what you want. in or out or dial in more rear steer to help rotate on lift.
Old May 29, 2013 | 06:26 PM
  #44  
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From: Marietta GA
Originally Posted by chrisw
Doing your own alignments is fairly easy if you take the time to recheck your measurements.

I do mine with string and a digital smart camber gauge. All you need is a flat floor and garbage bags incase you don't have spreader/turn plates

use 2 12 in vinyl floor squares at each wheel and put salt in between...works well so does grease in between but salt isnt so messy

Also if you search on Youtube there are videos on how to create a level setup even if the floor is not flat, by using what i suggested along with some water, tubing and 5 gallon pail along with yard stick.
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