campbmic

The problem:

Ok guys I have a 2002 Lancer which I bought 3 years ago with 100k miles on it. A few days after I bought the car I hit a curb with my front right tire going about 30 mph -.- the wreck moved my front right tire back a few inches.

I took it to a mechanic to fix the problem and he replaced the front right control arm. Ever since then, there has been a loud rattle/ clunk. At low speeds, it only happens when I go over bumps, but when Im on the highway its a pretty consistent rattle. Also, when I press on the brakes it seems to prevent the rattle from happening.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OC-ih...EDDaSu0SAs4x6W


I've replaced both axles, and did a clutch swap as well and after each operation torqued everything down to manual specs. Initially I thought it was something loose in the caliper, because it stopped whenever I braked. However, I have gone over the caliper and everything seems to be in order.

I have the car on stands. The tire, caliper, and strut are all removed. It looks like the mechanic welded one of the control arms to the frame. As of now I think the rattle may be coming from this bolt



Heres a video of me moving everything around without the tension of the strut to try to find the noise;

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NoMf-...ature=youtu.be
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vnpiQ...ature=youtu.be


Do you guys think this bolt is the problem? Or am I missing something?

rick1024

iTrader: (7)

ow **** that sounds horrible

campbmic

Do you guys think that the nut at the end of that bolt fell out of its cage and thats why the mechanic welded it to the control arm? Could the nut be rattling around and thats whats making all of the noise?

This bolt goes through the control arm into the crossmember, but does it go anywhere else? If I disconnect the crossmember will I be able to take it and the control arm off the car?

Dallas J

iTrader: (1)

Why the hell did he weld that bolt in? You need to have a torque on the bolt to pinch the trailing mount otherwise it will just flop around and possibly make the noise you're hearing. Its hard to tell from the video, but is then noise originating from bumps or from wheel rotation?

Regardless if its the noise source, I would fix that bolt hack job asap and report the dumb *** who fixed it before to what ever authority I could (BBB, google reviews, superiors, etc).

mcm308

iTrader: (13)

Oh myy.. ^ what he said. I tell you what happen here or atleast what it sounds like.. when your mechanic went to change the control arm, he broke the nut free that may have been welded to the chassis which is not accessible. Now he needed to cut the bolt to remove the arm.. that leaves half a bolt and nut that needs to get pushed up into the un accessible pocket that will clunk and flop around while driving. Now that there is no nut on the top side.. he just stuck the bolt through, welded it so it would not fall out and called it a day..lol and that my friend is NOT good. I'm not sure how I would handle that, I wouldn't want him touching the car again. I think I would have the car looked at elsewhere and then make 1st mechanic refund what you payed him or pay for new repairs or do both...

campbmic

Ya that would be awesome. However, the mechanic is the owner of the shop and Im pretty sure he won't give my money back unless I sued him >.<

Anyways, I was thinking of just cutting out a small hole in the subframe and tightening the bolt down. That seems to be the best way to correct the situation.

Either that or somehow get the welded bolt off and replace the subframe and put in a new bolt.

The first option seems the most reasonable to me. What tools (i.e. harbor freight stuff) should I use to cut out a hole in the subframe? Do I need to have the hole welded shut afterwards?

Thanks guys

n2oiroc

iTrader: (33)

short of replacing the subframe, you are going to have to cut it open as stated. you need an electric 4 1/2" angle grinder with the thinnest cutting wheel you an find or a pneumatic cut off wheel and get the nut welded in place. after the nut is welded in place, you have to hammer the flap back down and get it welded up. in all honestly, a new subframe might be the better bet.

campbmic

Thanks guys! How does the bushing that goes through the subframe look? Do you guys think its the bushing that is making the noise and needs to be replaced, or is it the nut/cage rattling around in the subframe?

Two more things before I can start working on it

1. Can anyone explain or give me a diagram to take the subframe off? Ive been trying to figure it out/googling and cant find any info on it.

2. If I do decide to just cut into the subframe where do I cut? How thick is the bottom of the subframe etc?

Thanks guys!

campbmic

Alright, well I cut a window into the subframe to try and fix the problem, this is what I found..




So what did I do wrong? Is that the cage that holds the nut? Did I cut to low and need to cut up higher? It was hard enough to get into this spot using a 4 1/2" angle grinder. If I do need to cut higher up what should I use to do it?

-.- very frustrating

n2oiroc

iTrader: (33)

i think you are going to have to cut the weld holding the bolt on to try and spin it to see where its spinning in the subframe. i think the bolt cant be tightened enough to sandwich the bushing between the subframe and thats where the noise is coming from.

campbmic

Thanks! In that window I cut, all I see is a cylindrical like tubing. Is the nut inside of this or above it (on that next "level" which we cant see yet)

n2oiroc

iTrader: (33)

Im not sure, thats why i said to get the bolt turning, it should be clear after you do that. If it is the cylinder, i think you could hold it with vice grips and tighten the bolt or just get it welded in place.

TommiM

iTrader: (19)

Go back and demand a new subframe. If that shop wont do it then sue the shop for it. Dont mess with modding it to get to work, it really looks like you need to just replace the subframe.

campbmic

>.< any idea how long it takes to get payments from a law suit? If anything I'll have to pay a buttload of lawyer fees from the start, and maybe in a year or so will see some money back. Thats if Im lucky, can't have my daily driver out of commission that long

I could open up the subframe, or replace it with a junkyard one. If someone could drop some information about how to take the subframe off or where the bolt actually is

kekek

iTrader: (22)

The nut that this bolt goes into is inside the unibody of the car, not the subframe. Getting a new subframe really wont help you. Having a competent mechanic address the issue will be your best solution.