Sirnixalot

iTrader: (7)

Hi guys,

I am finished piecing together the parts but I have a question about the ball joint stud taper. A problem which you guys don't have as your knuckles clamp the ball joint and you have Whiteline stuff.

I am using 39.5mm OD weld cups and a 5/8" ID spherical bearing with a GM mono ball stud (7* taper)and some spacers.

My stock ball joint is 40mm OD and the taper is 8*





Below you can see the very slight wiggle which I am wondering if when tightened will irrelevant



Basically I am trying to avoid 2 scenarios if at all possible.

a) paying $150 for a reamer i will use once
b) paying to have the taper on the new studs remade and possibly effing up $40 worth of studs

There is option c) lathe the taper straight, make a sleeve to fit over the stud and fit into the knuckle (11/16" OD), drill out the knuckle (11/16")

03whitegsr

iTrader: (8)

That taper is a problem. Both tapers need to be the same to avoid creating very high contact stresses between the two parts.

If in doubt, over-build here. There are a couple videos up of cars breaking these types of parts on Subarus. There is one video of a car going off track at like 100+ mph because of just such a part failing.

That piece is a highly stressed structural component, make sure it's right.

Sirnixalot

iTrader: (7)

Option get reamed for the reamer it is then

Sirnixalot

iTrader: (7)

I took everything to the machinist who had far more accurate tool's than I. He said that they were the same taper. My caliper is probably worth its weight in dirt. It's not like him to turn away business so I am tempted to believe him.


Here is the stud with some machinist dye after it pushed in a little more securely than in the video.

03whitegsr

iTrader: (8)

What material and heat treatment is it made from?

It's a great idea though and I've got something similar in mind for my car as well. The whiteline stuff is a joke really as it only changes the height by less then 3/8". If you want it to be effective, it needs to be A LOT more of a change then that. I am hoping for 1.5"-1.75" so I can lower the car another inch without killing the camber curve further. My car's not even that low now and would need 3/4" just to level out the arms.

What are you doing for the tie rods? Or can you just flip the tie-rod on the EVO 3?

Sirnixalot

iTrader: (7)

I got the studs from Colemanracing.com, i am not sure about the stud material properties.

The bearings and cups i got form mcgillmotorsports.co.uk (they are cheap since this is a general trial run. Later on i will swap out to some Aurora bearings.

The tie rods were a brain child of a friend of mine with an Evo2 up your way.



At my current ride height my control arms are just pointing up above level, and i am not even that low.

edit*

I haven't gotten around to measuring the angles for the roll center and to be honest i am not certain i could do them accurately. I guess i will add a 5/8" shim to get the arm dropped around 1.25" from where it is now.

Sirnixalot

iTrader: (7)

MUCH better!

Tomorrow they get welded