saabskijc

iTrader: (1)

Im in the middle of an audio build right now, and i plan on adding the trunk cage in the future and im looking for a measurement from the floor to the bottom of the sway bar part so i can purchase a small enough sub that will fit under the bar. thanks guys

FJF

iTrader: (18)

You must mean floor to strut bar. It's ~8.25". Interestingly enough, I wanted to locate a sub there, too. Seems like the natural spot, but it's not a great way to get bass into the cabin. Stop by the audio forum.

saabskijc

iTrader: (1)

not the best way but deffinatly the most convienent

FJF

iTrader: (18)

That's not really true. An underseat solution takes-up no usable space at all, it allows more sound into the cabin with at least half the noise, distortion, power and subsequent current draw of the same thing sitting in the trunk. No logistical barriers, either, like having to secure an enclosure to the trunk floor. Like I said, I considered doing this, too, albeit for better sound not convenience.

mouseIX

What is the need for an audio system in an Evo?

FJF

iTrader: (18)

I see what you're getting at and I don't necessarily disagree on an aggregate scale. There are some folks who really care about music. For them there's sense in exploring the option of installing a better sounding system in the car. The question is, how should that be done? One can take the typically ignorant car audio approach, developed by folks who know even less about audio than they do about automobiles, load the car with lots of additional mass, and then spend the rest of the time trying to upgrade the car's electrical system. In this sense, your comment carries some weight (no pun intended). OTOH, a musically satisfying rig that works within the constraints posed by the Evo, itself, can be had with a minimal weight penalty (less than 10lbs net) and no interference with the car's function.

sujinX

iTrader: (22)

less than 10 net lbs? what are we talking about here? im assuming just speakers and not a sub and amp? if my assumption is wrong, can u fill me in on this? this is very interesting.

FJF

iTrader: (18)

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...ot-system.html

The system I put together came to ~15lbs (net) including wire, etc. One can get the weight down further by using a much lighter amplifier. I run a fairly hefty (weight-wise) amp due to personal preference.

saabskijc

iTrader: (1)

I don't want a stripped down race car I'd like to make a nice sounding stereo I got a Polk 1100.5 amp db5251 components and db651s for the rear and I'm gonna install that first and then see if I will get a sub. As far as the underseat setup goes how hard is it to make a custom box for a sub and is it uncomfortable to sit while it's driving hard?

mouseIX

I'm just messing lol. I'm on the extreme opposite. I daily an RS with no radio and no speakers. I'm a little hardcore race. I do however love music, but not as much as driving. I prefer the symphony of gear noise(solid mounts) and turbo power. Quality Bose system at the house for me

FJF

iTrader: (18)

There are two options: I can sit here and explain the constraints posed by this car and how to obtain a sonically relevant solution, or you can read the thread that I link'd. I'm going with the latter.

No.

Dallas J

iTrader: (1)

To the OP's question, dont worry about the trunk cage. It does absolutely nothing and is all about looks. Complete waste of money unless you're just looking for bling and cred yo.

On the purpose of a good system, even a small sub make a pretty big difference in audio quality cause you get rid of the small door and rear speakers bass levels. So you net a much great audio range and reduce the rattles from the doors. I like the Stock SSL box in my buddies car and was thinking about finding one but fitting a different speaker and amp for it.

FJF

iTrader: (18)

I know this is the predominant opinion on the forum, but I don't feel the same way. I mean, there are (light) stress cracks in the powdercoating on mine. It has to be doing something. In terms on actual performance, I can't really comment, as the cage has been in the car for ~5 years and there's no real point of comparison anymore.

Intuitively, this isn't a bad idea. The thing is, the SSL box is extremely shallow and its volume is relatively small, so finding a suitable driver is difficult. I mean one that's able to cut through all the noise. Then, there's still the issue of getting the sound into the cabin. I discuss all that in the thread I link'd. This isn't an easy car to work with. In essence we have two choices: we can either overpower the car and live with the additional weight, the inconvenience, the loss of structural rigidity, or we can work with the car. Its certainly easier to buy some speakers whose brand sounds familiar, a HU and an amplifier with a big rating and bolt them in. It just won't sound any good, but folks will still be able to post about the "mod" on the Internet, discuss its "benefits," and recommend the same ignorance to others.

saabskijc

iTrader: (1)

fjf i did read your thread i understand the construction of the doors and what not i have looked into sounddeadnershowdown as you have linked in other threads and i actually just ended up going with some dynamat extreme for level 1 of deadning we will take it from there