sevy2213

iTrader: (3)

Hey guys:

I just recently installed a set of AST 4100 coilovers on my Evo IX and im looking to get the car setup ride height wise before going to get an alignment. I have searched around the forum and havent found anything that helps me with getting the car set to a good ride height. My previous suspension setup was the MR bilsteins with swift spec-r springs and i would like to go a little bit lower than that. Im just not sure of where to measure from to get ride height so if anyone has any info or a site or an old post with info please let me know.


thanks for the help guys

sevy2213

iTrader: (3)

anyone have info please?

GTWORX.com

iTrader: (35)

What is your specific question? Measure from the center of wheel hub to the lip of the fender for consistency.

- Andrew

M8NSTER

Measure from the ground to the top lip of the fender. Turn the adjustment ring on the CO two times around (On all 4, and make sure the ground is level). Measure the difference (mine was like 2/8"). Then use math to figure out how many turns it'll take to get to where you want. That's what I did and it worked great.

Remember the CO springs will settle a little lower after a little while (only like 2-4mm).

You can also adjust the height after getting the alignment done.

SilverShadow03

iTrader: (19)

I measured from the center of the wheel hub straight up to the lip of the fender....Like GTWORX recommended.

Take before and after measurements so you can match your drop on all corners.

I did mine this way and was happy with my efforts at getting the car to sit to my liking.

Always double check your measurements so you are not stuck taking a wheel on and off multiple times.....like me..lol

Dallas J

iTrader: (1)

Without being on a level surface, height adjustment is an exercise in futility. Ive measured a bunch of places and not once found an area I didnt have to shim.

What I do, Cut 12"x12" squares of 1/4" plywood and buy/borrow a laser level. Find the best looking place you can and mark the square your tires make. Put the laser level at the highest corner and check the other 3 to find how far off you are.

I dont worry too much about front/back cause a little slope there effects weight distribution very little. Get L/R balances as close as possible (within those 1/4" spacers).

Measure as stated before.

For adjustment, I set the spring itself to minimum preload. Meaning, the collar is only tight enough to keep the spring seated. Then use the base to adjust the height. You can just spin the whole body while its in the car. Its not as easy as spinning the perch usually, but it will maintain the maximum droop without the spring getting un-seated.

One thing to remember, if you adjust the L/R, expect the R/F to reduce upwards of 50% of what you just adjusted. The other two corners may or may not compress up to around 25%. Depends on to many things to know for sure.

sevy2213

iTrader: (3)

Thank you guys for all the imput/advice

DagYo369

iTrader: (4)

boom done. and call it a day, best and quickest way to do it imo

Vindots

Does it matter if all 4 shock length of coilover does not have equal length? as long as the fender and centre hub measurement is the same?

Sorry for newb question,
Thanks for reply,

This is for audm evo x

MinusPrevious

iTrader: (3)

Yes Sir, it does matter. The preload on the spring must be of equal length on all 4 corners. Each coilover should have a spec on the preloaded length of the spring

Your compression & rebound will be affected by unequal length springs

Iowa999

iTrader: (1)

Why? Coilovers come with linear springs. Why does the preload have to be equal across all four corners? The only thing that changes when you alter preload is that travel is traded between bump and droop.

How? Again, these are linear springs. How will the shocks be affected?

And what makes you think that the springs won't be equal in length (at least, side-to-side)?

Iowa999

iTrader: (1)

ps. no-one mentioned disconnecting the swaybars whenever setting corner heights or corner weights ... assuming adjustable end-links

BriK

iTrader: (11)

I actually took measurements on the shock itself when making adjustments, then measured from the ground to fender lip because it was hard for me to know if I was truly in the center of the wheel hub with the wheels on.

I aimed for 1.5" lower than stock and minimal rake.

MinusPrevious

iTrader: (3)

Your right, Preload is important mainly on the front springs where approx 1/4" of load is needed to set the spring in the perch. The rear spring just needs to be snug w/very little preload. I guess, I was envisioning his coilovers being way out of preload i.e. one spring highly preloaded & the other lightly loaded (i.e. 7" springs loaded up by over 1")

03whitegsr

iTrader: (8)

I know you guys have explained the traditional way to set coilovers up, but I have to ask "why?"

Setting by measuring from wheel center to fender...
OK, from a looks perspective, sure. But from a performance perspective consider what you are really doing. One side sits lower? Raise it up... Of course, it was lower because there was more weight on that wheel and now you've added more weight to it by raising that corner...

Adjust by setting zero preload then using the body height to control rode height? You've just reduced droop travel and now have maximum compression travel... But the tire runs into the frame rail with 2" of compression travel left...

How it should work...
Adjust body length so you get fully compression travel but you should be about to hit (or hitting) the bump stop when the tire runs into things. Doing this will maximize droop travel and put the put the strut further into its travel at ride height which will stiffen the strut assembly and reduce size load on the shaft and piston.

Short of corner weight scales... Measure out the distance between the perches so left to right they are equal. If the spring rattles around because the perches are too far apart at ride height... Get some helper springs or simply ignore the noise.