snafufx

iTrader: (14)

So after reading and research, I decided to attempt to raise my coilovers. When I would hit bumps in the road, my back fender kept touching my tires, this after I already got them rolled. I loosened the bottom of the coilovers, and from reading I do not touch the second perch, but the top, larger one to adjust height. I start turning...and the only thing that happens is the spring actually compresses, decompresses, but the actual threaded portion does not twist into the bottom which it looks like it suppose to. Is there something I'm missing here? All I want to do is raise my back maybe 1/2" to stop the tires from rubbing against the fender. Luckily I pre-measured beforehand, so when I couldn't get it right, simply put it back to where it was set.
Highlighted are the ones I used for turning:

Thanks for any suggestions. I let it sit in pb blaster all night, cleaned all the threads, and for the life of me, can't get the threaded part to move into the lower chamber.

MinusPrevious

iTrader: (3)

Yea, The bottom nut where it contacts the lower shock body is the one to loosen. Rotate the threaded tube into / out the lower shock body to raise / lower your ride height (Righty tighty / lefty losey)

Im concerned about what youre doing. I understand you have rub but raising the ride height should only be a temp fix. You need the proper fender clearance / change your wheel / tire spec to eliminate any form of rub

snafufx

iTrader: (14)

Yeah I'm pretty sure I'm going to have to take off my 5mm spacer in the back or something. The problem started when I went to an 18" rim (245/40/18 tire) with 5 mm spacer in front, none in the back. Noticed the calipers were striking the front rims, so upped them to 10mm, and threw the 5mm in the back just to make it look more flush with the fronts. But regardless, the back sits noticeably lower than the front. The front I have one finger clearance, the back I cant even do that. I already rolled the backs, I might just take off the spacer to help. It doesn't do it when I'm by myself, only when I have a rider.

snafufx

iTrader: (14)

I took off the spacers and no rubbing, just looks weird with the front tire pushed out, and the backs tucked under the fender.

MinusPrevious

iTrader: (3)

Looks like you have corrected the issue by removing the rear spacers.

The appearance of the front higher than the rear is normal. A properly raked EVO should always appear that way.

If you adjusted the ride height you should get it realigned.

Anyway your ride looks good from the windows down

Peace, Joe

snafufx

iTrader: (14)

Yeah thats mainly the reason i was trying to adjust it since im scheduled to get an alignment this weekend. Lol, thanks, the upper half looks stock, my money is spent on the engine:-)

Dallas J

iTrader: (1)

How you adjust the lower perch is all based on where you want your droop to stop and bump stop to hit. From there you can use the upper perch to change the ride height.

This changes if you don't have helper/tender springs and very stiff springs where you need to keep a least a small load on the spring so it stays captive under droop.

snafufx

iTrader: (14)

That's where the problem. Is though, when. I turn the top perch the perch just raises/lowers the springs and doesn't thread the actual coilover into the chamber. Typing on phone, sorry for grammar mistakes.

Dallas J

iTrader: (1)

If I get what you're saying, then you already have too much spring preload on the shock and the spring pressure is stopping you from adjusting the upper perch so when you try and turn it the whole body just spins? Am I on track here?

Your body lengths just might be out of whack. I personally would pull everything apart and pull the springs off the struts. Put the struts back on sans the springs with bolts just snugged. Put the wheel on and run it up to the max height you want it and measure something fixed (Hub center to ground or center to fender works). Then adjusts your strut body so the bump stop hits just a bit before this. How much is a bit subjective and depends on it how hard the stops are and what the wheel can hit if it runs past this.

At this point you can put the springs back on and use the perch to adjust the height. Of course, this may need to be modified like I said before if you have heavy heavy springs that need the perch real low to get the car low enough. With this you may have the spring come unseated and do weird stuff (bind and what not). The solution to this is a tender or helper spring. If you change the body length to fix this then you sacrifice droop travel and make your bump stops ineffective.

You could also be on the other end of the spectrum where your spring rates are too low and you need a ton of pre-load just to get to your minimum height. Here you can either get heavier springs or muscle up and get enough preload. If you really cant get enough turns then you can loosen the top nut or try an wedge a spring compressor in there. I dont have this issue though cause I run stupid high spring rates

snafufx

iTrader: (14)

Yes, the car was set like this when I bought it years ago, and it never bothered me until I went 18" and wider tires. No, nothing spins at all. Basically when I turn the top perch, it functions like a basic nut/bolt, and only goes up and down the threads of the coil-overs, hence tightening/loosening the actual spring. The coilover "body" does not seat into the lower portion like it's suppose to. I called a few local shops and none of them mess with coilovers so since it isn't rubbing now, I'll leave it as is even though the back tire now sits inside the fender and looks odd. I'll have to take a pic when I get home in the morning which would help.

spyderx

iTrader: (17)

Chris,
Let's meet up at my place later. I'll hit you up when I go back up home.
We'll sort it out then. I should know I installed them... haha

Chu

snafufx

iTrader: (14)

Lol sounds good man, we need to get together. It's been awhile. Youre old ride just joined the 500whp club:-)