Wheel spacers on stock evo8 rims
Jul 11, 2012, 06:05 PM
#3
No, you'll be fine. Just make sure you get nice spacers, made for your stock wheels, as some hubcentric spacers won't work with the stockers.
25mm spacers all the way around will make 'em sit flush with the fenders.
Here's evidence to support:
http://www.maximummotorsports.com/st...wheels_spacers
25mm spacers all the way around will make 'em sit flush with the fenders.
Here's evidence to support:
http://www.maximummotorsports.com/st...wheels_spacers
Jul 12, 2012, 08:44 AM
#9
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I can tell you I wanted to get some spacers, but after research and then reading Smikes take on spacers I won't now.
You can see it here, last post. https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...bs-wheels.html
Jul 12, 2012, 09:40 AM
#12
And its not just "one" person.
Centering issues, clamping force issues, low quality (not held to OE tolerances on surface smoothness/flatness), stress changes to hub area, not enough threads to secure wheel...
Get a wheel that fits without spacers. But since this a hellaflush thread. Who the **** cars. You just want to look cooler...
Last edited by Smike; Jul 12, 2012 at 09:51 AM.
Jul 12, 2012, 09:58 AM
#13
Actually -- try reading more. Its been beaten to death. If you search and read you'll see that. Repeat threads get closed.
And its not just "one" person.
Centering issues, clamping force issues, low quality (not held to OE tolerances on surface smoothness/flatness), stress changes to hub area, not enough threads to secure wheel...
Get a wheel that fits without spacers. But since this a hellaflush thread. Who the **** cars. You just want to look cooler...
And its not just "one" person.
Centering issues, clamping force issues, low quality (not held to OE tolerances on surface smoothness/flatness), stress changes to hub area, not enough threads to secure wheel...
Get a wheel that fits without spacers. But since this a hellaflush thread. Who the **** cars. You just want to look cooler...
Also, the majority of the community uses spacers for reasons completely beside the "hellagay" look. I had to use spacers to clear the front Brembos on my 18x9.5 NT03+M's, just like almost every single other person running a 18x9.5, unless you buy them in a hellaflush offset like +15 or something ridiculous. Buying most wheels in an offset that "fits your car" doesn't fit your car at all in terms of not using spacers (in the front, specifically).
Not arguing, I'd just like to hear your thoughts on the matter.
The Physics of Keeping the Wheels On
As long as the wheel, hub, and spacer are stiff enough to prevent flexing and loss of clamp force, the cause of most wheel stud failures is under tightened lug nuts (not enough clamping force) or over tightened lug nuts (the stud has been stretched past it's elastic limit, so the clamping force goes away). Therefore, properly installed wheel spacers are perfectly safe.
The wheel stud applies a clamping force that holds the wheel to the hub. When the lug nuts are tightened, the wheel studs stretch elastically, like very stiff springs. The lug nuts should be tightened until the stud is at 90% of its elastic limit. This will provide the greatest possible force to hold the wheel to the hub.
The amount of clamping force at a joint is important because of the coefficient of friction (Cf). The more clamping force applied to the joint (in this case the joint between the wheel and the hub), the more force required to make the wheel slip relative to the hub. Unless the wheel slips on the hub, there cannot be any bending load on the stud.
Coefficient of friction -- There is friction between the wheel face and hub face. This friction can be measured, and it is called the "coefficient of friction". The coefficient of friction (Cf) is the ratio of normal force, at the intersection of two surfaces, to the lateral force required to slip the bodies relative to one another. As an example, good street tires have a Cf of 0.9. This means that if there is a 100-pound vertical force applied to the tire, the tire can generate 90 lbs. of cornering force before it slides.
When the car starts moving, the stress applied to the stud does not change appreciably, unless one of two things happens:
1) The vertical component of any external force applied to the wheel is so great that the clamping force is not sufficient to hold the wheel in place, and it slips on the hub. At this point the stud is loaded in bending and in shear, and may yield, or even break.
2) Some portion of the clamped joint, wheel, or hub is not stiff enough to prevent flexing, and allows the tension load on the stud to drop to zero. With no tension load on the stud, the clamped joint is no longer tight. The wheel can then move relative to the hub, and place a bending load on the studs.
Inserting a wheel spacer between the hub and wheel changes nothing about these physics.
The hub center of a hubcentric spacer does not hold the spacer on the hub or reduce the chance of stud failure. There is never any load on the lip of the wheel spacer. For there to be a load on the lip, the friction force in the joint must have been completely overcome. The lip on a hubcentric wheel spacer serves only as an aid for wheel installation.
Increasing the length of the wheel studs to use a wider wheel spacer has no appreciable effect.
As long as the wheel, hub, and spacer are stiff enough to prevent flexing and loss of clamp force, the cause of most wheel stud failures is under tightened lug nuts (not enough clamping force) or over tightened lug nuts (the stud has been stretched past it's elastic limit, so the clamping force goes away). Therefore, properly installed wheel spacers are perfectly safe.
The wheel stud applies a clamping force that holds the wheel to the hub. When the lug nuts are tightened, the wheel studs stretch elastically, like very stiff springs. The lug nuts should be tightened until the stud is at 90% of its elastic limit. This will provide the greatest possible force to hold the wheel to the hub.
The amount of clamping force at a joint is important because of the coefficient of friction (Cf). The more clamping force applied to the joint (in this case the joint between the wheel and the hub), the more force required to make the wheel slip relative to the hub. Unless the wheel slips on the hub, there cannot be any bending load on the stud.
Coefficient of friction -- There is friction between the wheel face and hub face. This friction can be measured, and it is called the "coefficient of friction". The coefficient of friction (Cf) is the ratio of normal force, at the intersection of two surfaces, to the lateral force required to slip the bodies relative to one another. As an example, good street tires have a Cf of 0.9. This means that if there is a 100-pound vertical force applied to the tire, the tire can generate 90 lbs. of cornering force before it slides.
When the car starts moving, the stress applied to the stud does not change appreciably, unless one of two things happens:
1) The vertical component of any external force applied to the wheel is so great that the clamping force is not sufficient to hold the wheel in place, and it slips on the hub. At this point the stud is loaded in bending and in shear, and may yield, or even break.
2) Some portion of the clamped joint, wheel, or hub is not stiff enough to prevent flexing, and allows the tension load on the stud to drop to zero. With no tension load on the stud, the clamped joint is no longer tight. The wheel can then move relative to the hub, and place a bending load on the studs.
Inserting a wheel spacer between the hub and wheel changes nothing about these physics.
The hub center of a hubcentric spacer does not hold the spacer on the hub or reduce the chance of stud failure. There is never any load on the lip of the wheel spacer. For there to be a load on the lip, the friction force in the joint must have been completely overcome. The lip on a hubcentric wheel spacer serves only as an aid for wheel installation.
Increasing the length of the wheel studs to use a wider wheel spacer has no appreciable effect.
Last edited by Blue91lx; Jul 12, 2012 at 10:11 AM.
Jul 12, 2012, 10:45 AM
#15
What do you think about the info I posted above? The CNC machines most spacers are made of these days are extremely accurate. Have you tested spacers like JMFab, Ichiba and H&R against your quality control preferences? From what I got from the link above the stress doesn't change if you have hubcentric spacers and extended studs to make up for the spacer.
Also, the majority of the community uses spacers for reasons completely beside the "hellagay" look. I had to use spacers to clear the front Brembos on my 18x9.5 NT03+M's, just like almost every single other person running a 18x9.5, unless you buy them in a hellaflush offset like +15 or something ridiculous. Buying most wheels in an offset that "fits your car" doesn't fit your car at all in terms of not using spacers (in the front, specifically).
Not arguing, I'd just like to hear your thoughts on the matter.
Also, the majority of the community uses spacers for reasons completely beside the "hellagay" look. I had to use spacers to clear the front Brembos on my 18x9.5 NT03+M's, just like almost every single other person running a 18x9.5, unless you buy them in a hellaflush offset like +15 or something ridiculous. Buying most wheels in an offset that "fits your car" doesn't fit your car at all in terms of not using spacers (in the front, specifically).
Not arguing, I'd just like to hear your thoughts on the matter.
Majority? Try rarity. Very very rarely do I see spacers in the events I race/instruct in.
Regardless:
Centering issues
- assembly to vehicle centering
Clamping force issues
- meaning any off plain or uneven torque attachment
- foreign material between surfaces (spacers add 2 more surfaces to make sure they are perfectly clean)
Low quality
- not held to OE tolerances on surface smoothness/flatness
Stress changes to hub area
- moving assembly in/out from OE plane
-- extreme example CP cars in SCCA. Ever seen them loose a wheel? Guess why.
Not enough threads to secure wheel
- "It threaded on 3 threads, I think" = I get out of that car.
User opens themselves up to those issues which can cause ride, handling, and vibration issues. Why risk that? I'll pass.
Last edited by Smike; Jul 12, 2012 at 10:51 AM.