Hey guys I got an alignment at TiresPlus this past Saturday. It feels more like a rip-off'lignment. Apparently, alignment at most these stores like TiresPlus, Pepboys and Midas only means adjusting the toe. I never knew this, until I asked the manager and tech about my camber. He told me, "we only correct the toe."... But I felt I needed an alignment being I just upgraded 18 x 9 Rims.
I'm not a suspension technician, but would like to know if my toe, camber and caster are within the geometry an evo..per say. I corner my evo like a boss and would like to keep it that way. I got rid of my coilovers and went with MR Bilsteins. And will be going with Racecomp springs in a few weeks. Will get another alignment after spring of course. Attached below is image of the Past and Current Alignment. I would also like to add that my steering wheel was severly crocked to the right. Looking at the first spoke on the steering wheel clockwise(that first spoke on the steering wheel was slanted exactly between 15 & 20 area of a clock position -going straight. ).

Current Setup:
18 x 9 +30 G-Force Front: 3mm Rear: None
MR Bilsteins * stock springs
245 40 R 18 Federals

Thanks.

 

Hey, Im not an expert but I would have liked to see the "Current" camber measurements closer Left to Right. You noted you like cornering so more front camber might have been to your liking (Say -1.8-2.0)

I think the toes look OK. I believe the range is .04-.20 (I thought maybe the EVO likes a small amount of negative toe). The caster no.s (their probably OK) The range is 3.4-4.4 based on my last alignment)

Mike

 

I really appreciate the advice....so are you saying - I should just adjust the suspension bolt on the Bilsteins to add camber(2) to the front or would a real alignment that includes camber adjustment from a shop yield the maximum for street setup. Thanks for the input man.

 

I think your car should have more front camber & it should be even side to side

Im on C/O's & have camber plates. Im not sure how much negative camber you can get with the alignment bolts

Some of the suspension guys will chime-in to add & then we will really get you confused

 

that before is horrible.

the after is not bad. from what i know the "best" evo recommended alignment is 0 toe all around, -1.5 camber front -1 camber rear.

my stock front camber bolts when not seized were able to swing up to -2.5 degrees.

 

With the amount of rear camber you've got, flip the camber bolt on the front struts to get you closer to -2, then get realigned. You'll want as close to zero toe as possible. Make sure you drill this into the head of whoever is going the alignment. I made the mistake once of not making myself absolutely clear, and the tech put the alignment right into the middle of factory spec, which was nowhere near where I wanted it. Unfortunately a lot of alignment shops will insist on factory spec, so YMMV.

l8r)

 

Front camber needs more or rear needs less.

Changing wheels does not change alignment. Hub is where the alignment is set. And no, general stores do not do true alignments anymore.

When you get the GTWorx springs on there you'll need another alignment. At that time see how your camber bolts are set up front. Make sure they both are in the -1 or -2.

 

@Solenoid,killerpenguin21, Ludikraut and Smike

Thanks guys. I've found me a tech who understands / and willing to work with me...he also told me that likely the printout above was done before tightening of the tie rod jam nuts. And will not skip the details. I belive the 'arrow bolts' are facing in the car both sides, but will verify and align. thanks again.

 

combined front camber and caster is to much anything over .4* will cause a pull/drift. car should pull towards the side with the less postive caster

<<< Hunter trained speciality alignment technician and CEO of LTM

 

do you mean 4* and not 0.4*? if you really do mean 0.4*, then im a little confused...actually in general im confused because i was planning on going to 5.5 caster and -2 front camber, and was pretty sure that would be a decent setup...but i may be wrong.

 

Your camber and caster should be different but your side to side camber OR caster should not have more than .4* difference.

 

ah that makes more sense then.

 

I would print out and bring the front/rear camber adjustment sheets from the FSM.

 

Can anyone tell me the factory specs, front and rear, for a 2003 Lancer OZ stance? I want to compare those to what I'm getting now...