mrfred

iTrader: (50)

I've been fiddling a bit with alignment (gotta love Sears' for free realignments). I was trying out 0.0 degrees to see if it would improve turn-in responsiveness and over/understeer tendency. What I ended up finding out is that straightline stability is pretty bad at 0.0 degrees - it very readily wanders and pulls pretty strongly on tire ruts. At the factory value of 0.2 deg toe-in, its very stable and nearly unaffected by tire ruts. Since my Evo is a daily driver and the wander and pull were so strong at 0.0 degrees, I never had any inclination to test the effects on turn-in and balance.

twabtoxer

iTrader: (39)

Right on bro! I didn't know about Sears..... i have to keep this in mind for next alignment

mrfred

iTrader: (50)

Technically, they are not free, but if the shop folks are easy going, they'll let you come back several times to tweak the alignment. In my case, it also helped that they consistently kept producing an alignment with a cocked steering wheel.

WRC-LVR

iTrader: (1)

I found the rear toe to be also sensitive to front toe. just a touch out toe 0.1 in the front lead to exactly what you are saying.

But with rear set to zero and the fronts just a touch toe in 0.1 the stability was great.

I also found that replacing the stock FSB bushings with ES ones makes a difference in more stability and then you can run true 0 toe in front again..

mrfred

iTrader: (50)

cool. can the bushings be installed without removing the bar?

mivecboy

iTrader: (14)

whats the oem rear toe setting for our evo's?

mrfred

iTrader: (50)

0.2 deg toe in. 0 deg toe in the front.

WRC-LVR

iTrader: (1)

Yes indeed..not bad at all.maybe about 1 hour total . No dropping of the subframe or taking off parts. except to disconnect the endlinks to manipulate the bar easier..a little tight in there and the wheels have to come of both sides. I used jack stands. The drivers side one you have to slide the bushing on from the wheel well side. Make sure to grease the bushings well first. I also used thin sheet teflon ( .010 " ) from McMaster Carr to wrap the bar. Cut it to the width of the bushing and to just wrap around the bar. Install with the slit on the opposite side of the slit in the bushing. You can stick it in place with the grease ES sends. A bit tricky to keep it in place while manipulating the bushing over it..but you will never have to grease again and Teflon is a true bearing material so no stiction. Car takes a set in turns much faster.

Ps do that PTFE trick to the RSB as well. The effect is noticeable, Mychailo

IIRC I used Gear wrenches, 3/8 and 1/4 drive sockets, to find the correct one. Extension length is a bit difficult and finding the right length helps.

If you wish to go a little further then use the Cusco endlink plate for the front for better adjustablity or get Delrin bushings custom machined/split. Delrin bushings will bring the bar effect on much quicker albeit witht more NVH.

L8r