detroit pistins

iTrader: (102)

Thanks in advance for your help!
So After purchasing the mentioned combo above, I realized I needed to roll the fenders to make them fit. I am starting to roll the fronts and have a couple of questions;

1) How aggressive would I need to roll the fronts and rears?
2) In the pictures below, I am showing the location of the clips that hold the fender liner. do I only need to roll the lip area in between them? The reason why I ask is because if the lip for the clips is also rolled, then it may cause fitment issues for the liner when it's put back on.

any advise?
Thx

*the white tape indicates where the liner clips are located.

killerpenguin21

iTrader: (20)

im on 17x9.5 +38 with 255 rs3's (basicaly a 265) and i had no need to roll the front, the car is tracked and ha not rubbed once.

detroit pistins

iTrader: (102)

Thats good news. I thought I needed or should roll the front because when I put the wheels on, it looked like it would hit the lip if it bottoms out. Maybe I was being too agressive with my judgment. Tonight I will update the thread with a pic of what I am talking about.

How much did you have to roll the rear?
Thx

killerpenguin21

iTrader: (20)

rear is rolled flat, but i ran one track day without it rolled and didnt rub. but i run a little harder now.

i was leaned over pretty hard this weekend and didnt rub in front. my rim sticks outboard 25mm farther than yours will with my spacer.

detroit pistins

iTrader: (102)

^Appreciate the pics and info man!

I put the front wheels on and here is how they look so far, the edge of the tire is approximatly 1/4'' outside of the edge of the fender.


And this is how it looks from the top


and this is how the whole wheel sits. I still need to adjust my coils and drop it slightly more. its currently sitting with approx. 4 fingers worth of clearance between the top of the tire and the lip of the fender. how does yours compare?


and last but not least, I noticed that there is a slight play or I should say that the wheel doesn't drop fit onto the hub like the oem's do. Did you have to use any centering rings/plates or anything of that sort?



Thanks for the help!

killerpenguin21

iTrader: (20)

yeah you need hubcentric rings. my front gap is 2 fingers-ish.

whats your alignment? im running -2.8 degrees of camber up front, since its basically a track car. lowish camber setting may be why it looks like you need to roll

detroit pistins

iTrader: (102)

Any recommendations on the rings? ... I just scanned thru STM's website and couldn't locate one quickly. I suppose they would need to be evo/rpf1's specific right?
I haven't done an alignment yet. was hoping to put on the coilovers and swap the wheels then align it. what would you recommend as far as camber for a street car?

Thx

killerpenguin21

iTrader: (20)

you can probably get hub rings from tire rack for not too much, theyd also know what size. they came with my wheels when i got em from oakos.

i think my old street alignment was about -2 front camber with zero toe and -1.5 rear with like 1/16 total rear toe in (converts to like 0.1 degrees toe in on each side i think)

detroit pistins

iTrader: (102)

I msg'ed a couple of vendors will see who has them in stock.
Thanks for all of your help man!

mrfred

iTrader: (50)

if i were you, before i'd roll the fenders, i'd pull the springs off a front and rear shock, put the shock back on the car, and run the suspension thru its travel with the wheel attached. you'll have to unbolt a swaybar endlink too be able to do this.

iirc, rpf1's have an unusual size hub bore. i think its the same as my pf01's. i got metal (instead of more commonly sold plastic) centering rings with retaining rings at a good price from a company called good-win racing. its a mazda specialty shop.

detroit pistins

iTrader: (102)

^thanks for the feedback Fred.
I did manage to roll one of the rears so far and to check its clearance wrt the tire, I removed the coil-over, and jacked the control arm upward while the car is up in the air. I didn't unbolt the end link (which I probably should have done for a good measure) but I think it looks pretty good so far. I will do the other side tomorrow and will follow your suggestion just to be sure.

Below are some pics of the progress.
ps. first time rolling the fender .... learned that that I should have only attempted at rolling the lip and not try to pull the whole fender outward...in the process I managed to crease the edge closest to the bumper ...lesson learned!





Also, I ended purchasing the plastic rings from TireRack for $1.50/piece. I would probably be more comfortable with the metal ones but those will do for now. fitment was spot on! Thanks Neal (TireRack rep).

mrfred

iTrader: (50)

So rolling the rear was necessary to clear? Do you know how much it clears by now? What is the rear camber? Those look like pretty wide 255s.

detroit pistins

iTrader: (102)

I am not sure about the camber of the car... I recently purchased it.
I am planning on rolling the other side today so I will take before and after pics of the clearance.

detroit pistins

iTrader: (102)

Couple of hours later, I removed the end link and coil-over and here is how the wheel/tire fit without rolling the fender (rear)




Then I heated the lip and rolled it without attempting on pulling the fender (better call!) and jacked the control arm up and here is how the wheel/tire fit.





*** see the before and after in the pics below.





I think I am all set with the fitment. I need to corner balance the coils then alignment then I am done with wheels work for GOOD!

Any other recommendations on street camber settings for this setup?
Thanks for everyone's help

mrfred

iTrader: (50)

-1.5 front and rear is as good as anything. If you really want to try to get as much front grip as possible, max out the front camber. Probably can only go -2 max.