Ralfo

Starting to get my crap together for autox next year
Trying to find the most efficient way to buy new brakes for a mild upgrade to my evo8 since they need to be replaced anyway
I want slotted but not drilled b/c of all the horror stories about pad wear, cracking, and dust
Not really worried too much about stopping power b/c the oem rotors I have with worn out pads are enough to skid the tires at autox speeds
Also overall cooler brakes would be nice b/c I can feel the oems getting hot at speed which is not comfortable when I need to slow
Squealing doesn't bother me too much either, as long as they're functional


Option 1 $(490+6snh)+(187+19.18)=$703.18

Rotors:
Stoptech
http://www.streettunedmotorsports.co...rotors_evo.htm

Pads:
hawk pads
http://www.lancershop.com/customer/p...2&cat=0&page=1

I like both of these and the price is okay, but what's the deal with cryo treatment on those rotors?
I understand what it is but is it actually worth it?



Option 2 $324.79+38.34=363.13

Full Kit
Powerstop
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/more...120&cc=1421446

Drilled and slotted but damn, that is really cheap



I'm going to run a summer tire on stock rims during autox:
Falken FK453
http://www.discounttire.com/dtcs/fin...669&vid=008389

or maybe

Goodyear Eagle F1 Asymmetric 2
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires....n&autoModClar=
(however these are on closeout and a little birdie told me that they are probably old or defective since they are so cheap)


then later change to an all season tire on my 18s for the winter since I live in tx and it's prolly not gonna snow:
Continental Extreme Contact DWS
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires....omCompare1=yes


protips appreciated anywhere.
I've done brakes before just not on this car ...yet.

RJones

iTrader: (5)

Are you saying you're going to get dedicated autox tires to swap when you have an event? If so, I'd suggest much stickier street tires than that. Look at the Hankook RS3 or Dunlop Z2

As far as brakes go. I'd suggest Rotorpros rotors (just search on here for the best deal), as they're decent, and will cost you a lot less than the Stoptechs. Usually they run around $200 for a full set of blanks.

Hawk HPS is a decent street/autox pad, but if you want more bite HP+ would be better.

vortico

iTrader: (38)

I started off using HPS on the stock rotors/lines and they were a definite improvement over stock. Later on I switched to rotorpros slotted, braided lines, and EBC red stuff and noticed a marked improvement in both stopping power as well as reduction in noise. There may or may not have been an increase in dust though, can't be certain since I switched wheels around the same time.

As for tires if you are in a hot environment (which SE Texas would be I think) I'd say defiantly go RS3, or a slightly more temperate environment go Z2. I found switching from RS3's to Z2's that I lost a bit of time in the hot months, gained a little in the cold months. I would not get the Goodyears, I ran the eagle F1 my 1st season and they were not good at all, and I would avoid anything labeled all-season for autocross as well. I have heard those continentals are good on the street though.

Ralfo

I'll be driving on whatever tire I get and I think there are different rules for tires next year (at least at my event) regarding track tires so folks who don't spend $1000 on a set will have a chance.
I have a dd chevy colorado b/c I work at a papermill and don't wanna get lime dust on my car, so I don't drive it everyday. Prolly once every week or so. I just cruise and hit autox, but I drive the car to the event and drive away on one set of tires.

What was so wrong with the goodyears? Would the Falkens be a better choice? I want to be able to slide a little if I need to. I have a habit of using oversteer to kill understeer and it tends to make up seconds since I'm on stock suspension, and the tires I've been running are all season, b/c I've been saving up for next season and mods at evodynamics. I'm from SE tex but I drive to shrev for RRR b/c I've got a buncha friends who go there to autox, and it's not what I'd call cold conditions but there have been a few 50-60deg mornings during an event in the last year. The all seasons would just be for street driving in the off season and would probably last a few years due to low milage.

vortico

iTrader: (38)

The goodyears were decent for the street, but not ideal at all for autox. Breakaway was not predictable, and since the compound is so hard they were defiantly lacking grip. That being said they did work to start out, however I remember at one Porsche club event just before I switched from them I was burning up the rubber pretty badly. On the street they were alright though. I switched from those to Falken 615 (the old ones) and they were a huge improvement. If your going to go with switching tires I'd get something better than those goodyears, and for about 50 a tire more.

You could also look at some of the high performance summer tires (as opposed to max performance). A friend of mine ran on Hankook Ventus V12 Evo tires, not ideal but they were pretty decent, better than the goodyears for sure, and inexpensive from online tires. I went with these actually for my current street tire. (in 245/40r17)

http://www.onlinetires.com/products/...10+97y+bw.html

Only $90 a tire in 235/47r17 and $96 in 245/40r17. My experience with online tires was not bad either, got the tires in 3 days standard shipping they came out of Long Beach, Ca for me. Normally I go with TireRack but these guys had a killer price on those tires. I think tirerack has those for 109 as well.

mithrandir7533

iTrader: (1)

What pads, rotors and tires are you currently running? Sounds like you need a better/stickier tire.

Ralfo

I def need a stickier tire, but still pretty hard since I'm not swapping until winter. Would like to get two autox seasons out of a set.
I've been running an all season tire just because that's what was on when I bought the car last summer. Fun to slide around with, but not so great for autox. I was just doin it on those tires to have fun, and not really be super competitive.
Been saving up to do something to it and the time has finally come.
Not sure what brand the rotors or pads are, I just know they're worn out.

I ordered the hawk pads in my OP last week, and i was going to get those rotors for cheaper than my OP on ebay but they guy keeps flaking out on me. He wants me to send him money off ebay so he can sell me both front and back, instead of two transactions on ebay. I'm probably just being paranoid but I think I'll pass on that.

Ralfo

Does anyone know the dimension of the centercaps for the stock 17" enkei rims?
I brought mine over to my painter yesterday to be powder coated and one of the centercaps was cracked pretty bad.

chu

iTrader: (72)

A new, unshaved set of tires will last longer than a season if you run correct tire pressure and keep up with tire rotation.

Ralfo

I've been rotating mine after every other event (usually around 1500mi)

What's a good pressure?
I've tried different pressures at different track temps, and 45-50 seems like a good area on the all season tires.

heel2toe

iTrader: (41)

The optimum tire pressure varies and there are many different variables to take into account such as your alignment, the type of tires, the size of the tires, the size of the rims your tires are on, your suspension setup as well as your preferred driving style.

In my case with my ZII's I target around 38psi hot but depending on the conditions of the track I will tweak it. Before I installed my TRE rear diff I used to run about 1-2psi more in the rear however now I run about .5psi less in the rear than the front.

Best thing to do is try different settings and see what you think feels best. IMO 45-50psi is too much pressure and may cup your tires however I can see that with an all season with probably pretty soft sidewalls the increase in pressure helps to stiffen them up.

Ralfo

Exactly right. All weather 18s.
During my first event with this car I tried 35psi just as a rough guess, and my shoulders looked like hamburger meat. Same thing with 40psi. Last event I was more comfortable with 45 (ish) in the front and 50(ish) in the back, and the tire didn't roll as much. Got a better tire gauge for christmas so maybe I can keep a closer eye on pressures this season.

Ralfo

Update
Went ahead and ordered the Hawk pads. 187+19.18snh
No one said anything bad about them and they seem like a good deal.
Found the rotors cheaper at Carpartkings.com. 398.76+nosnh

Total investment in brakes so far $604.94

They had braided lines on carpartkings for just over $100 so I might put that on my list of upgrades for next year. What's the benefit of braided lines anyway?

Just gave my rims to my painter last week.
Tires are still up in the air.

heel2toe

iTrader: (41)

Not sure if it's too late but have you taken a look at this site?

http://knsbrakes.com/c/car-items/607...n+-+All+models

They have a lot of great brake packages for great prices. Personally I've been using DBA4000 slotted rotors with Stoptech street pads for DD and Auto-x duties and have had good luck. I also picked up a set of stainless lines and use Amsoil DOT4 fluid and my brakes have been rock solid and didnt break the bank.

Ralfo

That slotted sport kit would have saved me about $100, but I've already ordered rotors and pads.
Centric parts steel brake lines from Carpartkings.com cost 119.65
Stoptech steel brake lines from KNS cost 121.50+15.59snh=137.09
pretty sure centric and stoptech are the same folks so if these rotors from carpartkings are okay then I'm ordering the lines from there as well.