ChicagoEvo9

iTrader: (3)

Have a set of 18x10 wheels that I wanna upgrade to but my question being, is it possible to run them without doing any fender/quarter work? I would rather not do any rolling or pulling. I believe they are +35 offset but not 100% sure. With the addition of coilovers of course, which I should be investing in shortly. Any idea if I'm in luck?

MinusPrevious

iTrader: (3)

Very doable, providing you treat the rear fenders w/a roll & pull

Otherwise, you will have a misfit of wheel/tire into the rear well & certain rubbage

LetsGetThisDone

iTrader: (1)

Will definitely need fender work if you put a proper sized (265 or 275/35) tire on it.

Astro_Train

iTrader: (17)

widest wheel and offset with a 255 you can probably get away with a mild drop (no more than 1.5") is probably 18x9 +29 (Advan RG/RS). Even if you stay with an offset between 33 and 38 you will probably not clear the Brembos but depends on the wheel of course.

FULL BOOGY

Thats the setup I was really wanting to run, I just settled for a known fitment using the 9.5 platform.

RJones

iTrader: (5)

You can make 18x10 and 285/30 work with a roll. It all depends on how low you are and how stiff the springs are. With +35 I'd expect you to need about a 15mm spacer in the front.

Edit: Sorry, I just saw no rolling or pulling. I ran a 9 in the SCCA STU class with 9.5 +38 and 245 (max width per rules) on stock fenders with no issues. You *may* be able to get away with 18x9.5 with 255/35 without rolling, but 18x10 is likely out of the question.

killerpenguin21

iTrader: (20)

17x9.5 +38 with a 255 "cheater" tire ran with no rubbing on my 9 with some bilsteins/gtworx springs. so if you had even stiffer springs i would expect no issues as well. 17x10 +38 may work, but i think theres about zero chance of 18x10 with no fender work.

MinusPrevious

iTrader: (3)

The OP left, just after he posted his question

Astro_Train

iTrader: (17)

This is the only set up that may work without a roll.

Because the answer to this thread is NO

killerpenguin21

iTrader: (20)

Yeah 17x10 keeps the bumper bolts out of play in the rear I believe, so it should be easier to deal with. I may pick up a set depending what tire I decide on for this seaso

ChicagoEvo9

iTrader: (3)

Well i read the first couple comments that I can't so figured me posting "ahh man that sucks" would be stupid lol. Still here though!

MinusPrevious

iTrader: (3)

Glad to see youre still here. Many times, the question will get posed, & then the OP leaves & the discussion still continues

Basically to run the wide wheel & tire you have doctor-up the rear fenders. Although at glance, my rear fenders look clean & unmolested. But if you were to examine, in person, you might be discouraged to see whats involved

Any 10" wheel (17 or 18) is going to require the roll, pull & bumper bolt relocation if its going to fit correctly w/out rub, w/out adjusting the ride height & w/out running out of spec rear camber

If you ever want an opinion (all done on calculator), you can find me in the sticky above (wheel tire fitment) or PM me

Joe

killerpenguin21

iTrader: (20)

i don't agree with that. for the 17x10 im quite sure only a roll is needed, most of the sticky street tires only go up to a 255 in 17's although they are basically a 265 anyway so the baby stretch you get is beneficial.

i believe the common tire used on 18's is a 275/35/18. a 255/40/17 is 0.6 inches less diameter, and tires like the nt01/rc1/r7/a7 come in 275/35/17 which is an inch less diameter than a 275/35/18. imho with tire fitment that is a ton of extra space and should be WAY easier to fit.

MinusPrevious

iTrader: (3)

You noted here that running stiffer springs is a method in achieving fitment. Thats not how we do it. Full suspension stroke is required. Adjusting ride heights & cambers not allowed

The 17x10 +38 overlays almost exactly what I run (275/40/17 +30). The 8mm diff is lost in the 10 width, not to mention how close this is to the lower control arm. Way too close. Also, running the 17, we always run the 40 which is closer to the stock dia than a 35

My opinions are always to a track oriented set-up w/full clearance throughout the stroke, running proper camber & zero rub

Fitment is, for sure, an art

killerpenguin21

iTrader: (20)

im talking track setup. gt worx springs are pretty soft like all stock strut style springs, but its what was on the car when i started. i brought that up because the 17x9.5 +38 with 255's didnt even rub on track without a roll. i then moved to ohlins and 10k rear springs so more roll control/less chance of rub but i rolled the rears out of caution. theres an old thread floating around of a car on the 17x10 rpf1's and there was little to no modification.

a 275/40/17 may wind up needing the bumper bolt moved, but its also not a widely available size like i stated (at least what i quickly looked at for r comps that i would personally run). im willing to bet that a 275/35 will give you enough clearance since its pulling the tire a half inch further towards the center of the wheel (i run -1.8 rear camber). a 5mm spacer obviously wouldnt effect the clearance to the bolt.

regardless, i dont plan to move up to 18's anytime soon solely because of the cost over 17's.