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I've been having issues with my brakes lately on my '05 Evo VIII with 100,000 miles on it, and decided to rebuild my front calipers due to apparent "warped" rotor (when braking the steering wheel would wobble like crazy). The issue I was having before the rebuild was the front driver rotor seems to warp after maybe 5,000 miles or so. I have gone through a few sets of the stoptech powerslot rotors and I have tried both the stoptech pad and some hawk high performance street pads both went through a bedding procedure and the lines were flushed. I'm currently waiting on some DBA 4000 rotors and I bought some hawk ceramic street pad and I'm waiting to put those on until I know I've fixed a few things. Over the last weekend I took the time to take the front calipers off clean them and install the Girodisc caliper rebuild kit and paint the calipers gold. Upon doing this I noticed that both the front driver and passenger side calipers had one dust boot that looked like heat got to it and had made it wrinkle. The rotor that warped using the hawk high performance street super loud pads seem to have made a burn look on the rotor also. I would like to note that my car has never been to a track event and is hardly ever driven hard. Now to get to my point. After I installed the girodisc kit and put a fresh coat of paint on the calipers, I installed the calipers back on the car and had a buddy help me flush the system and put new ATE super blue fluid in. We have seen a few different ways of flushing fluid. One service manual says to go passenger rear, driver front, driver rear, passenger front while the car is on. Another way we found was people on here saying car off and go passenger rear, driver rear, passenger front, and driver front. I have tried both methods and both methods left me with a pedal that almost hits the floor before it starts to get firm. Before you ask I did bleed both sets of bleeders starting with the outside bleeder. Since the bleeding didn't work I looked for other possible areas that air might be trapt in the system. I took the master cylinder off the car (very messy) and did a bench bleed using a bench bleed kit. This did seem to remove some trapt air in the brake master cylinder, but when I installed it back onto the car and tried the bleeding procedure that the Mitsubishi service manual recommends I have the same issue with almost hitting the floor with a weak pedal. Since the calipers were off the car for a few days being painted and repaired I know the fluid drained out a bunch and I may have air in spots I don't want, but what would be the next step? Taking this super unsafe car out and trying to get my abs to kick on and hopefully release air trapt in the system? Any Help would be great! Thanks for reading this book.
caliper boot warped by heat with rotor behind looking like heat got to it.
Let it sit over night, bleed again. Hopefully you get some pedal back. Then take it out and try to get into the ABS.
Are you sure the master is good?
The bleeding was done last night and I was going to try to test drive this morning, but the pedal was worse if anything. The master cylinder was good before the rebuild, so unless it went bad while the car was just sitting on jack stands I think it's fine.
The reason I say to let it sit over night and then bleed again is that it allows all of the super tiny air bubbles to collect into larger air pockets/bubbles, and rebleeding will then purge them.
Bleed your clutch too,
also use cheaper fluid until you get it firm and then flush out the cheap stuff with good stuff,
Drive and keep bleeding, because you did a rebuild you prob have bubbles still floating
Around the system. Do a cool down drive before you get home from any heated drives and leave handbrake off when you park it to stop transfer heat, this helps prevent disc warp and don't be afraid to hit the track and test her out, you might like it.
Bleed your clutch too,
also use cheaper fluid until you get it firm and then flush out the cheap stuff with good stuff,
Drive and keep bleeding, because you did a rebuild you prob have bubbles still floating
Around the system. Do a cool down drive before you get home from any heated drives and leave handbrake off when you park it to stop transfer heat, this helps prevent disc warp and don't be afraid to hit the track and test her out, you might like it.
The evo has a drum parking brake, it doesn't use the brake caliper. So this common rule for other cars doesn't apply to the evo.
So after bleeding a few more times or both the clutch and the brakes with my new motive bleeder I put it all together and still has a really weak pedal. Lucky for me it snowed last night so I put the wheels back on and got some speed in the driveway enough to cause the abs to kick on. After that I put it on jack stands with the rear being higher than the front so hopefully any bubbles will go that way. If bleeding tomorrow after I let it sit a night doesn't work I guess it's time for a new brake master cylinder
Wonder if the ABS system is holding air. Heres a thread of a guy w/mushy brakes & the ABS module was discussed. What a PITA, sorry youre having problems
The evo has a drum parking brake, it doesn't use the brake caliper. So this common rule for other cars doesn't apply to the evo.
no danger of the shoes sticking to the drum or uneven cooling? For lack of knowing otherwise, I've always chocked my wheels after a session, just in case.
when you reinstalled the calipers--- are the bleeder screws on top? They need to be or you have them on the wrong side and they wont bleed. sequence is rt/r, lft/frt, lft/rt, rt, frt-- so criss cross on the evo, inside then outside bleeders on each caliper---which you didnt mention. good luck.
when you reinstalled the calipers--- are the bleeder screws on top? They need to be or you have them on the wrong side and they wont bleed. sequence is rt/r, lft/frt, lft/rt, rt, frt-- so criss cross on the evo, inside then outside bleeders on each caliper---which you didnt mention. good luck.
no danger of the shoes sticking to the drum or uneven cooling? For lack of knowing otherwise, I've always chocked my wheels after a session, just in case.
Bleeders are all on top no sign of leaky fittings either. I saw the part about criss-cross bleed in a service manual but people on here say farthest from master cylinder and also a shop I called said the same thing. I may buy a brake master cylinder rebuild kit since all I can find is a non abs evo RS master cylinder. Does nobody have to replace the brake master cylinder???
Mar 17, 2016, 09:42 AM
Brakes spongy after Girodisc caliper rebuild
