Ferodo DS2500 or OEM Brembo pads?
#16
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Originally posted by pwirski
the main problem i ran into with ferodos was overheating and warping oem rotors. the oem pads/rotors are engineered to work together so when you change to a high-temp pad, you may need to upgrade rotors as well (which is what i did).
the main problem i ran into with ferodos was overheating and warping oem rotors. the oem pads/rotors are engineered to work together so when you change to a high-temp pad, you may need to upgrade rotors as well (which is what i did).
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People overheat and warp the rotors with the OEM pads also.
So to put the blame on the ferodo pads seems a bit out of place to me. Sure the Ferodo pads warped the rotors....but it is likely that the stockers would have done the same in those specific conditions.
So to put the blame on the ferodo pads seems a bit out of place to me. Sure the Ferodo pads warped the rotors....but it is likely that the stockers would have done the same in those specific conditions.
#18
Originally posted by Secret Chimp
People overheat and warp the rotors with the OEM pads also.
So to put the blame on the ferodo pads seems a bit out of place to me. Sure the Ferodo pads warped the rotors....but it is likely that the stockers would have done the same in those specific conditions.
People overheat and warp the rotors with the OEM pads also.
So to put the blame on the ferodo pads seems a bit out of place to me. Sure the Ferodo pads warped the rotors....but it is likely that the stockers would have done the same in those specific conditions.
I was once at a track day where somone overheated their brakes and boiled their fluid - then immediately started blaming their car. This was not on an Evo, but the principle still applies. Every mechanical system will have limits, a good driver can go fast while working within those limits.
Oh, sorry about the OT.
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Originally posted by tsi90awd
"the factory pads are garbage, barely adequate for the street. "
This is a great example of why information posted on the internet should be taken well salted. Just think of all the magazine reviews on the excellent braking performance of the stock car.
"the factory pads are garbage, barely adequate for the street. "
This is a great example of why information posted on the internet should be taken well salted. Just think of all the magazine reviews on the excellent braking performance of the stock car.
Im not trying to be salty - or hurt anyones feelings but the ferodos are cheaper and better than the OEM pads so everyone wins! I fail to see the problem?
#20
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Originally posted by jump23
Anyone else experience warping problem due to Ferodo pads? Could this be an isolated case where the rotors might have warped anyway. Or are you guyys using Ferodo pads also using upgraded rotors?
Anyone else experience warping problem due to Ferodo pads? Could this be an isolated case where the rotors might have warped anyway. Or are you guyys using Ferodo pads also using upgraded rotors?
I'm currently using RMR slotted front rotors and EBC Greenstuff pads and have 4000 daily driven miles on them. They are working perfectly - smooth as ever, and dust substantially less than both OEM pads and Ferodo pads.
If you decide to go with Ferodo pads, expect more brake noise than stock, and look into getting some new rotors in the future.
If you plan on sticking with the OEM rotors, I would recommend the EBC Greenstuff or Project Mu pads.
#21
as an side make sure you cange your fluid (although I have not yet) and for some cheap (free) heat dissapation pull your stock dust shield this will help. Just make sure that you get some heat resistant wrap for you abs sensors.
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Originally posted by absinthe
Streets of willow 250miles on trak in one day.
Thunder hill twice 130 track miles +/- both times
Sears point 100+/- miles
and button willow 150+/-
..........and the fact i essentially do a canyon run twice a day five days a week I think this should more than prove the pads are effective enough.
If you dont think they are any good come for a ride april 28th at SOW.
That said they aint worth 250, I would look to a cheaper replacement of equivalent quality like like Project Mu pads that have been discussed on here or the Axxis pads if they are availible both should be under 100$.
Streets of willow 250miles on trak in one day.
Thunder hill twice 130 track miles +/- both times
Sears point 100+/- miles
and button willow 150+/-
..........and the fact i essentially do a canyon run twice a day five days a week I think this should more than prove the pads are effective enough.
If you dont think they are any good come for a ride april 28th at SOW.
That said they aint worth 250, I would look to a cheaper replacement of equivalent quality like like Project Mu pads that have been discussed on here or the Axxis pads if they are availible both should be under 100$.
One question here......that seems like a long time on any set of pads...you must have really been using the gears to slow yourself down...... 750 track miles!!!! C'mon, were the pads installed backwards (full metallic).
I guess the fact that Ferodo devolped the DS2500 specifically for Ferrari's road cars, is not worth anything hmmm....I think that I'd rather use a "real pad" manufactured by a company that has been developing brake pads for over 50 years including countless F1 victories......umm project Mu? Oh yeah.........haven't seen those pads around for much over 5 years...
Money...Horsepower and Brakes.....three things that you can never have enough of.
Come to think of it I believe that the current WRC car uses Ferodo product as well.
Don't forget to tip your waitress.....
#23
Some people have gotten as many as 30 k miles out of the brakes, they will hold.
Its not that I have anything against ferodo pads, In fact I think they are great I will use them when I replace these pads which will be in about 500 miles, the issue I had was with the statement that the stock pads were worthless as a track pad and barely adequate on the street. That was an assenine comment.
As for project Mu versus Ferodo, you are right again no comparison, but they are slightly better than stock and only 89$ which is more than enough for a guy who has never been to the track.
Its not that I have anything against ferodo pads, In fact I think they are great I will use them when I replace these pads which will be in about 500 miles, the issue I had was with the statement that the stock pads were worthless as a track pad and barely adequate on the street. That was an assenine comment.
As for project Mu versus Ferodo, you are right again no comparison, but they are slightly better than stock and only 89$ which is more than enough for a guy who has never been to the track.
#24
Originally posted by mttam510
One question here......that seems like a long time on any set of pads...you must have really been using the gears to slow yourself down...... 750 track miles!!!! C'mon, were the pads installed backwards (full metallic).
Don't forget to tip your waitress.....
One question here......that seems like a long time on any set of pads...you must have really been using the gears to slow yourself down...... 750 track miles!!!! C'mon, were the pads installed backwards (full metallic).
Don't forget to tip your waitress.....
I'll admit with my last car I tore up pads but it was on the stock brakes, the good thing it taught me is how to conserve your brakes, something even competitive drivers will talk about.
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Brake pads are always a difficult decision, you have so many choices and everyone's experiences are different.
For street/track, you have the Carbotech Bobcat, Ferodo DS2500, Porterfield R4S, EBC Green, Axxis Metal Master and the stock pads.
My own personal experience(driving on track) was with the stock pads. The stock pads, I feel were ok on track when they were new, no issues on track and no issues (vibrations) driving home from track. On the 2nd track outing, I begun to feel vibrations from the brakes after 2 20-min sessions, but the vibrations only happened during high speed braking (100+mph) and I felt no vibrations when driving home from the track. Also, I feel that the stock pad had lost some initial bite. Most likely my stock pads are toasted. For just driving on the street, I feel the stock pads are pretty good.
As for the aftermarket pads, I had a chance to ride with ogvw at thunder hill, and his brakes feels strong even after 3-4 fast sessions, but he is also running non-stock rotors with the DS2500.
Bobcat, EBC-Green and R4S, I've heard many stories...
EBC pads are crap and will eat up rotors, but from naucrx's experience, the ebc greens seem pretty good (especially after you look at their price)....Bobcats are way too dusty and noisy(but I can agree with that). The R4S only lasted a couple of track days... you name it I have heard it.
My guess is that you need to collect more data points and actually ride in other people's car to get a feeling how different pads perform. My vote is for DS2500 (if you plan on doing some track events).
Sorry for a long post.
-ob4
For street/track, you have the Carbotech Bobcat, Ferodo DS2500, Porterfield R4S, EBC Green, Axxis Metal Master and the stock pads.
My own personal experience(driving on track) was with the stock pads. The stock pads, I feel were ok on track when they were new, no issues on track and no issues (vibrations) driving home from track. On the 2nd track outing, I begun to feel vibrations from the brakes after 2 20-min sessions, but the vibrations only happened during high speed braking (100+mph) and I felt no vibrations when driving home from the track. Also, I feel that the stock pad had lost some initial bite. Most likely my stock pads are toasted. For just driving on the street, I feel the stock pads are pretty good.
As for the aftermarket pads, I had a chance to ride with ogvw at thunder hill, and his brakes feels strong even after 3-4 fast sessions, but he is also running non-stock rotors with the DS2500.
Bobcat, EBC-Green and R4S, I've heard many stories...
EBC pads are crap and will eat up rotors, but from naucrx's experience, the ebc greens seem pretty good (especially after you look at their price)....Bobcats are way too dusty and noisy(but I can agree with that). The R4S only lasted a couple of track days... you name it I have heard it.
My guess is that you need to collect more data points and actually ride in other people's car to get a feeling how different pads perform. My vote is for DS2500 (if you plan on doing some track events).
Sorry for a long post.
-ob4
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Originally posted by absinthe
the issue I had was with the statement that the stock pads were worthless as a track pad and barely adequate on the street. That was an assenine comment.
the issue I had was with the statement that the stock pads were worthless as a track pad and barely adequate on the street. That was an assenine comment.
Stock - the car is great, the brakes are great also (up to a point...)
with Ferodo DS2500 - the car is even better, pedal feel is markedly improved, lots of initial bite, and much more resistence to fade (up to a much higher point)
as always, take what I say with a grain of salt I was just trying to share my positive experience about a good product
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Originally posted by absinthe
.......would you continue to push when you are suffering heavy fade, and thrash your brakes?
I'll admit with my last car I tore up pads but it was on the stock brakes, the good thing it taught me is how to conserve your brakes, something even competitive drivers will talk about.
.......would you continue to push when you are suffering heavy fade, and thrash your brakes?
I'll admit with my last car I tore up pads but it was on the stock brakes, the good thing it taught me is how to conserve your brakes, something even competitive drivers will talk about.
I agree with the conservation of brakes to some degree, however, if you need to ease off application and brake earlier, that is not conservation....but a poorly set-up system. Slow the car with the brakes, slowing down with 4 wheels with your middle pedal is the best way to go.
You are dealing with kinetic energy with the car rolling, in order to slow the car down you must transform that energy into heat, heat is the by-product here.....The rotor mass, pad composition and caliper (fluid) must be able to withstand this energy release. Fade occurs when the pad material becomes unstable on the transfer layer of the disc (rotor) due to excessive heat that system cannot dissapate, not enough mass in the rotor or not enough cooling via ducting, venting etc. In addition to fade, you can also experience air bubbles forming behind the piston (in the caliper) also due to excessive heat "boiling" the brake fluid....making the pedal "long", because now you are compressing the air bubbles that have formed.....a common misconception....anyways I digress. It is always a good idea, especially when running track days or braking like a champion when you are "practicing on da street", to use a good brake fluid. If you think that you may have boiled the fluid during a session, bleed your brakes in between your sessions.
Not tring to start a war here, there are enough of those already....
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Brake pad 'reviews' are mostly worthless unless you know how the person reviewing them drives and how they use the brakes. I had a very good experience with the stock pads at Putnam Park last year, but while I was going faster with every lap I wouldn't say that I pushed them extremely hard. Therefore, my 'good' review of the stock pads doesn't seem to carry much weight, does it?
FWIW, I will be replacing the stockers with DS2500's before I go to Mid-Ohio in 3 weeks.
FWIW, I will be replacing the stockers with DS2500's before I go to Mid-Ohio in 3 weeks.