chickenbrest

iTrader: (3)

All,

I bought RBF600 Brake Fluid as well as the Carbotech Panther XP 1108 racing brake pads and a set of stainless steal braided brake lines.

The question I have is do I need to completely drain out all the factory brake fluid when I do the change. I will be replacing the lines etc so most of the fluid will be removed anyway, but I want to know if I need to pump out ALL of the old fluid or can they mix.

thanks for the help,
-Doug

DA-Evo

if you are goin to use RBF600 brake fluid then you will need to removed all the old brake fluid

chickenbrest

iTrader: (3)

So when you say remove ALL, do you mean hook up a pump to make sure I get every last bit?

I called Vivid, where I bought the RBF600 from and they said that if there was a little of the original fluid left in there it would not be a problem.

I want to make sure I do it right.

thanks,
-Doug

tsi90awd

It usually is a bad idea to completely drain the fluid from a brake system. You wind up with bubbles in your ABS pump and valving that can be really hard to get rid of. If you don't get rid of all the bubbles, you get a soft pedal.

My procedure is to use a turkey baster to remove all the old fluid from the resevoir that you can (note that it is hard to get it from the clutch portion of the resevoir), then carefully fill up the resevoir with fresh fluid, then bleed all around starting with the rear-right.

I assume RBF600 is not a silicone fluid (DOT 5 or something). In that case, you do need to completely drain the system. No mixing allowed.

1QWKEVO

iTrader: (3)

DO NOT DRAIN ALL YOUR FLUID!!!!

You will need to bleed or pump all the fluid out through the lines and when your new fluid flows through the lines then u know the system is flushed. If you bleed everything you will get air in places your not going to be too happy about and bleeding those problem areas are a pain in the @$$. Best way is a pump, it will allow you to pump fluid by hand through the lines and all u need to do is top off the fuild and not let it go dry.

erioshi

If you're changing the out the lines, you will need to drain them. Motul RBF600 is a DOT 4 fluid, so mixing with the OEM fluid shouldn't cause any problems.

When I did mine, I first emptied the top chamber using the turkey baster method (I used a brake fluid pump). Then I went to each corner and drained that line; the caliper will drain some when also when you disconnect the line. Next put in the new line and move to the next corner.

When you refill the system I think RR, LR, LF, RF is the correct bleeding order. The master cylinder is near the LF, but the ABS distribution block is near the RF. If I remember the manual correctly the next step is to turn your key to "on" and depress the brake pedal to cycle the ABS system. Our ABS is supposed to auto-bleed and it hasn't been a problem for me. After that bleed the brakes one more time to clear any bubbles created by cycling the ABS.

That's the process I used and the car has been great. Also, if your pedal seems a touch off ater a few days, re-bleed everything. Sometimes it takes a bit for all the really small air bubbles to collect. Since you're going to have to drain your entire brake system, now is a great time to replace the clutch line if your planning on it. I did mine at the same time.

Quick tip #1: Be sure to check your fluid resivor every few pumps once you start bleeding the system. When everything is empty, your fluid will go down pretty quickly. Pumping air into your system because your resivor is dry will mean repeating alot of work and wasting alot of fluid.


Quick tip #2: Be sure to have a properly sized wrench on both sides of the brake fitting you are loosening or tightening. The very last thing you want is to damage the part of the line you are not replacing. Go slow, and seat all the threads by hand on the new lines to make sure they are correctly lined up.

chickenbrest

iTrader: (3)

erioshi,

Thanks for the info. That is very detailed. I am planning on changing the clutch line so I will make sure I have the new lines before I do the brakes.

Thanks for all the help and the tips.

-Doug

992gnt

iTrader: (5)

I did mine last night (without the lines). Went smoothly and I'd have to say it's a bit easier with two people, even if you're using a vacuum pump.

chickenbrest

iTrader: (3)

Greg,

Your in Cinci... Why don't you come over and help.....

Seriously, I have a buddy that is going to help me. But I have a big job planned:

-install carbotech panther xp1108 racing brake pads
-install stainless steel braided brake lines
-change the brake fluid to Motul RBF600
-install a stainless steel clutch line
-install 2pc under-hood stiff bushings kit
-install 8pc stiff shifter bushings kit
-install lineage grounding kit

Oh - and did I tell you that I also have to install the replacement Buschur FMIC. The original one that I got from them only 3 weeks ago is damaged. I put a hole in it from bumping a parking lot block. Here is a link to the thread with pictures.

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...568#post896568

pretty amazing if you ask me..all I did was bump it and it shoved the tow loop right through the back of the intercooler. Anyway I am also picking up a new front air dam from tomorrow. it is being painted. The original one was damaged in the same incident as the intercooler.

I figure I will reinstallt he FMIC and the front air dam and maybe put in the grounding kit this weekend and save the brkae and clutch stuff for next weekend. Your free to come over and help anytime...

-Doug

erioshi

I ran into a couple of things when I did my clutch line. The first was that I needed to adjust the angle off of the banjo bolt for the clutch master cylinder. The first time I tightened the new clutch line down, the line was rubbing on the strut tower. I changed the angle just enough to clear the shock tower. I avoided pointing the line up because I didn't want the high point (where air would naturally collect) to be above the clutch master cylinder.

The second thing to watch is that getting the threads to bite on the banjo bolt for the clutch master cylinder is a bit tricky. I would suggest spreadding a clean rag out beneath the area to catch the banjo bolt washers in case one drops. This trick worked for me when I did the clutch line; I dropped one washer on my first attempt.

992gnt

iTrader: (5)

I'd be happy to come up and help. This weekend is probably out, I'm at Mid Ohio tomorrow, and have a BUNCH of yard work to do saturday. PM me with your schedule, and I'll see if I can make it up.

jemm

iTrader: (2)

Jack up your car, start the engine and bleed in this sequence (LHD only!!)...

Bleed the outer nipple first!!!

jemm

iTrader: (2)

LHD USDM EVO BLEEDING SEQUENCE

The ABS channels cross over!

JDM_FeTiSh

do what everyone been teln u. n whatever u do.. don forget to pump ur brakes when your done. or u will hit a wall or some s* .. not coo to completely drain all the fluids out. jus enough

erioshi

Thanks Jemm - I couldn't remember the exact sequence, been a while. Jemm is also right about the manual recommending bleeding with the engine running.

When I did my brakes it was below 0 degrees F outside and my garage doesn't have a car exhaust vent. I didn't want to let out all the warm air by opening the garage door; my helper would have killed me...