Satori

It's got to be your wheel bearings. That's all that's left after you replaced the rotors, assuming the alignment is properly set. Cars with tight suspension like ours should have the alignment checked/set at least once a year provided you haven't hit any pot-holes or curbed a wheel.

I haven't checked my bearings but I'm willing to bet that's the issue in my case as well. I'm sure mitsubishi will blame everything but the bearings and it will be the last thing they check because they aren't fun to pull even when you are being payed to do it. I bet that if you want to replace them under warranty they will have you jump through hoops while they test everything else and make you have to come back over and over again until they resign themselves to replacing it/them. But that's just my supposition here, I could be wrong.

Gumpy

My wheel bearings were checked and were fine. So I wouldn't waste your time. I pretty much absolved that the problems are all due to inadequate cooling. Now that it is getting cooler out, I have had less problems. I just did some high speed stops with plenty of time in between for cool down and now it is at least liveable. It was terrible all summer long. I am going to make some cooling ducts of my own before next spring. You would think that Mitsu would have engineered the cooling of the brakes better.

Gumpy.

Jim_Patterson

iTrader: (13)

I worked at a tire shop and we didnt surface the rotor just to make money, when you resurface the rotor when putting new pads on the car. The resurface allows the pads to bead into a surface free of defects.

Actually you would be suprised.
This was a suprise to me also, but you should resurface rotors when buying new ones even, i called the mechanic an idiot but he proved me wrong when about 3/5 new rotors that we got werent true.

egtwincam

i got my front and rear brakes done. resurfaced with hawk hps. they work well. had the front rotors cut cause it had a big fat lip on the edge of the rotor and was grooved. even though i didn't have any steering wheel shimmy. i still got it cut and now the brake pads got more even pad contact with the rotor! Mitsu dealers sucks! 250 for front pads? who feels me?

termsheet

iTrader: (1)

My car has 12K miles. After 2 hard track days (5-6 hours per day) I got the shimmy. The stock pads looked overheated on the edges and the rotors were warped. I took them to the local machine shop and got them turned for $12.50 each. I had them take off as little as possible. Then I installed some PFC 97s. Going to the track all weekend and I'll see how they do. If I get any shimmy I'm not gonna waste time with new rotors, I'll just order some Stop Techs.

njboy

iTrader: (1)

Two things that I have found that work in preventing "warped" rotors. Make sure that you torque the lug nuts with a torque wrench to 80ft-lbs. Go in a criss-cross pattern to make sure one side doesn't get too much pressure. Don't trust the dealer or tire shops unless you actually see them take out the torque wrench. The other trick is to always roll the car a bit forward after coming to a stop. This will help dissipate heat on the pads into a different part of the rotor after making a hard stop. The rotors on the EVO are very thick so I would assume that most of the pulsation is not caused by the rotor actually warping but uneven build up of material on the rotor. That is why its always a good idea to roll the car forward slightly at a stop light etc. Also using a more abrasive pad like the Hawk hp will keep the rotor "clean" but the downside is that the rotor will wear out much quicker. Personally I would rather replace a rotor at 50K but be guaranteed smooth brakes during that time period. Pulsating brakes and steering wheel vibrations really bug me.

Satori

Pulsating and vibrations my ***! Below 70 maybe but anything above that is nearly catastrophic. I gently put on the hooks at about 80 this weekend and the car damn near tore itself apart. I got some bendix cross drilled rotors on the way. I can't put up with the ones I got now. Dealing with it isn't a reasonable solution. Taking them off to grind them down every 1k miles isn't any more reasonable.

EiEVO

iTrader: (9)

you prolly arent have a qualified person turn the rotors.... if they are not 100% true when you turn/machine them then you will have problems very soon. You have to be within .002" when machining and there has to be a good amount of material left otherwise you will have the same issue. Also i turn/machine brand new rotors every single day. Why? one may ask.... Because they are thrown around and being stacked on during shipping and in the warehouses and this causes warping before they even come out of the box. So i double check every rotor before i put it on the customers car... it sucks, its sad but its the truth.

Satori

Okay, I have to claim ignorance on this one, just where does one go to find a qualified shop to cut rotors? I mean, I understand that the proper way to do it is to use an on the car lathe, but I'll be damned if I can find a shop around here which has one. So how do I know which place is qualified or not?

Boosted Josh

Ok well I'll chime in here. At before or around 12K miles I've got the shimmy in the steering wheel while braking at speeds above 60 mph. I can sometimes feel it when going slower but not usually. I've tried to rebed the pads but it didn't help. I mentioned this to the Mitsu dealer when I went in for my spoiler fade and they told me that since I am over 9K miles that it would almost be impossiable to get mitsu to cover it under warranty.

I don't hammer on the brakes, I pretty much just drive to work 13 miles one way (90% highway) but other than that I've engaged in maybe 3 "panic" stops since I've had the car. And I always let the car creap up after a hard stop to disperse the heat.

I'm going to sand the rotors to see if it helps any, I might pull the pads and see if they are glazing or just look strange.

EiEVO

iTrader: (9)

If you dont know who to trust where you live the buy a new set of crossdrilled/slotted rotors.... or mail your stock ones to me. I have two lathes that i used daily. I can get your rotors within .002" tolerance. Thats pretty damn close to perfect. Its your call, just tryin to help you fix your problem.

Satori

I appreciate the offer . What I was getting at was; is there something wrong with dropping the rotors off at say pepboys or should one look for a machine shop that does rotors? I'm in a good area here so if I asked around I'm sure I could find a place. I do know a guy who did my flywheel for me but he won't do rotors.

Topracing

iTrader: (2)

bump for nice setup

scb1999

I have the same issues with my brakes like everyone else has but thank God the dealer has fixes the problem everytime. My question to anyone is how common do you hear the rear rotors warping? And do you feel the same shimmy/pulsating like the fronts.

Z1 Performance

iTrader: (185)

front rotor issues are as old as the Evo - its a very common problem going back years and years, and the solution is fitting better quality front disks with a properly matched pad.

As for rear rotor issues, almost nill, as the rear is there to essentially balance the front and as such, is not subject to nearly the amount of heat. However, on cars that see alot of track days or aggressive driving in general, rear pads do tend to wear before fronts - off, but often true