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Resurfacing Brake Rotors

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Old Dec 26, 2007, 10:08 AM
  #121  
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Angry 5th times a charm?

I am going into my local dealer ( the largest evo dealer in the country ) for the fifth time with a shimmy in the wheel when braking at 70 mph and above problem. My EvoIV has 17,000 miles on it and I use it to commute 125 miles a day through SoCal traffic. Each time the dealer fixes the problem at no charge, but it comes back in a few thousand miles. I just read every post in this thread and found no one with a solution that fixed any of the problems. Has any one fixed their problem?
Old Feb 5, 2008, 01:34 PM
  #122  
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I have the Hawk HPS pads on stock rotors and the lip on the outside rotor is digging into my pads now, time to resurface or get some new ones? 17000k on evo viii
Old Feb 22, 2008, 12:14 PM
  #123  
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I have 2 issue's
1) re-surfface rotors or go with Stoptech
and

2) which pads to get
*Endless Vita Nuavo
or
*Hawk HPS

NEED FEED BACK!
Old Feb 24, 2008, 04:33 PM
  #124  
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I'm too lazy right now to read all 13 pages so I'll just post my question. I'm about to replace my rear pads and I wanted to get info of whether or not I should replace the rotors as well. The read on the first page to use the 'penny test' to check the depth of the rotor surface. I did just that, measuring at the edge of the rotor, and Lincoln's head hardly sunk down. I would rather just replace the pads since it's easier and a lot cheaper than doing the full on brake job. My car is a DD btw and has never seen a track or autox since owning it.
Old Apr 8, 2008, 02:11 PM
  #125  
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Originally Posted by Evo D
My '03 has about 10K on it, I have had the steering wheel pulsing on braking from 50 mph and higher off an on since about 3k. Since it is especially bad at the moment, I checked the rotors with a dial indicator. Driver's side measures no run-out, right side varies from about 0.000" to 0.003". Since the shop manual says the limit is 0.0012", obviously I'm out of range on that rotor. I'm wondering though before I look into have the rotor(s) turned if the problem may be due to pad material deposition. No kidding, I took GREAT CARE in not abusing the brakes on this car early on (car had only 4 miles on it when I got it, so I don't think anyone else did either) and I do not hammer the brakes repeatedly from triple digit speeds or anything of the kind. Given the size & supposed superiority of this expensive "name brand" brake hardware, you'd sure as hell expect them to hold up better under pretty normal street driving. One thing I have noted a number of times with this car however is if it is left to sit for several days or more, especially if "put away wet", the pads stick to the rotors such that you have to break them free with the engine to get the car to move. I have noted after this there will be a clear black spot/outline where the pad had been stuck. Anyway, when you sand the rotors, does it matter how, i.e., should you move the paper in a circle around the entire disk (so the scratches produced would be parallel to the direction of rotor travel) or should you move the paper radially, i.e. from the hub outward (scratches perpendicular to rotor rotation)? You'd think there might be a chemical which would aid in this process, maybe when used with something like a scrubbing pad, etc. When I have the rotors off for this, would it be of any use to sand the face of the pads a bit, maybe to remove glaze? Also several posts mention "reseating" the pads. How exactly is this done?

Lastly, what would be the best replacement rotors & pads for normal street use? After this experience, I'd be pretty relucatant to go with Brembo rotors. Any use stoptech?

TIA,

Dan
I have this EXACT problem on my Evo. Exactly as you described.
Old Apr 11, 2008, 09:46 AM
  #126  
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everybody with steering wheel shake eh
Old Apr 23, 2008, 09:13 PM
  #127  
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good thing i read this thread, I was going to resurface my rotors
Old Apr 27, 2008, 08:34 PM
  #128  
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Rotors

I have 35K on the STOCK rotors... before i got new PF 2 piece fronts and Stoptech slotted rears...

i never turned them... i had hell 30 track days on those rotors... went thru a few sets of pads... PF97's and PF01's...

they were spidering after 4 years and 35k and all the track times... so i replaced them all... i have all new pads and all new rotors...

never had any issue with any of the stock rotors... they were always solid and no warping...

just throwing my 2 cents in..
Old Sep 14, 2008, 05:10 AM
  #129  
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i need to replace brakes pretty soon, but cant make up my mind between project mu or hawk... I wanted the Ferodo ds2500, but im not going to be pushing them.
Old Sep 15, 2008, 07:17 PM
  #130  
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project mu if dont want the ds2500
Old Sep 26, 2008, 05:30 PM
  #131  
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allways cut old rotors when installing pads... even measured ok with dial indicator there will always be a high or low spot on that rotor.will avoid forming that lip in the long run
Old Sep 26, 2008, 05:36 PM
  #132  
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Originally Posted by evo2005mr
allways cut old rotors when installing pads... even measured ok with dial indicator there will always be a high or low spot on that rotor.will avoid forming that lip in the long run
Please re-read the first post. Do you not need to resurface the rotors with new pads.
Old Sep 26, 2008, 06:01 PM
  #133  
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dont agree with that 100 %...have u guys ever heard this line "i just got my brakes done its making noise ....me steering wheel shaking....my pads worn already..i rest my case
Old Sep 26, 2008, 06:07 PM
  #134  
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Its call material transfer. New pads need a bed in time to put down a pad layer. "Warped" rotors = material transfer or too thin of a rotor.

Rest your case? With 6 posts and that attitude Ill go with experience and engineering - thank you.
Old Sep 26, 2008, 06:24 PM
  #135  
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properly done brakes dont make noise....bed in time very short...if resurface rotors...too thin rotors be determined at intial brake inspection discard if out of specs...


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