GB: Kaixen HID Kits - $300 shipped! Highest quality HID lighting for your EVO
#46
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Originally Posted by Noob4life
This GB still going on?
I have 9006, 6000K's in stock (As well as other sizes).
No need to wait for GB to be filled, just send payment and I can send it out the next day via UPS.
#47
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Originally Posted by autodoodad.com
Apparently, head office is saying that its the same spec as OEM 35 watt ones.
Such "frying" of stock harness may happen if you "flash" (turn on and off) several times within a short period of time (few seconds) creating a hot overload on the stock wiring harness.
For normal applications, it will take years to fry it. Some Chinese brands using unstable ballasts and poor quality wires have known to cause faster burn outs as well - head office engineers think this may be the case for some people with burned out stock harnesses.
Since 1999, they have had thousands of customers with no report of such a thing happening.
For example, just last week, I had a customer who ordered a replacement bulb because the bulb he bought back in 2002 just went out - after 4 years of use.
I asked him about this, and he said he didnt notice anything and its still running great.
Hope that answered your question regarding this.
Such "frying" of stock harness may happen if you "flash" (turn on and off) several times within a short period of time (few seconds) creating a hot overload on the stock wiring harness.
For normal applications, it will take years to fry it. Some Chinese brands using unstable ballasts and poor quality wires have known to cause faster burn outs as well - head office engineers think this may be the case for some people with burned out stock harnesses.
Since 1999, they have had thousands of customers with no report of such a thing happening.
For example, just last week, I had a customer who ordered a replacement bulb because the bulb he bought back in 2002 just went out - after 4 years of use.
I asked him about this, and he said he didnt notice anything and its still running great.
Hope that answered your question regarding this.
#48
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Originally Posted by autodoodad.com
Apparently, head office is saying that its the same spec as OEM 35 watt ones.
Such "frying" of stock harness may happen if you "flash" (turn on and off) several times within a short period of time (few seconds) creating a hot overload on the stock wiring harness.
For normal applications, it will take years to fry it. Some Chinese brands using unstable ballasts and poor quality wires have known to cause faster burn outs as well - head office engineers think this may be the case for some people with burned out stock harnesses.
Since 1999, they have had thousands of customers with no report of such a thing happening.
For example, just last week, I had a customer who ordered a replacement bulb because the bulb he bought back in 2002 just went out - after 4 years of use.
I asked him about this, and he said he didnt notice anything and its still running great.
Hope that answered your question regarding this.
Such "frying" of stock harness may happen if you "flash" (turn on and off) several times within a short period of time (few seconds) creating a hot overload on the stock wiring harness.
For normal applications, it will take years to fry it. Some Chinese brands using unstable ballasts and poor quality wires have known to cause faster burn outs as well - head office engineers think this may be the case for some people with burned out stock harnesses.
Since 1999, they have had thousands of customers with no report of such a thing happening.
For example, just last week, I had a customer who ordered a replacement bulb because the bulb he bought back in 2002 just went out - after 4 years of use.
I asked him about this, and he said he didnt notice anything and its still running great.
Hope that answered your question regarding this.
This harness problem is dependent on the car and whether or not it has a beefy enough harness. On some cars that have really weak harnesses (some older Civics in particular), the harnesses had issues keeping up and would fry well within a year.
If you think your car's stock wiring is tough enough, then that's your call, but there's no reason to take a chance when you can just pay $50 (or less if you make it yourself) for an upgraded wiring harness that doesn't draw power through your stock system and takes directly from the battery. It's a prevantative measure. In the end, you can't say for sure that you've had thousands of customers without a single harness issue since it's more than likely that those who did simply did not bother to report the issue to you and fixed the harness on their own. Honestly what would you do even if they did report that one of your HID kits fried a harness? Would you cough up the dough to replace it? I doubt it, so why waste time?
#50
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Originally Posted by 2hot2handle
ok, so 35 watts to actually start up the ignitors? then why provide a 20 amp fuse when the factory is already set to work? doesnt make sense. if its recomended to to upgrade fuse ratings, its consuming more wattage. if it werent, then there should be no need for the fuse upgrade. quick question, if the stock 10amp fuse were still in place while installing your HID kit, will it blow? if it does, obviously theres more power being consumed. if the fuse does not blow, then why provide a bigger amp fuse?
upgrading the fuse is necessary.
It doesnt use more than 35 watts. some people actually prefer using 50 watt ballasts for more lighting.
#51
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Originally Posted by DarkMastyr
Well flickering your lights on and off certainly will accelerate the process of cooking your harness, but regular usage puts strain regardless. It's the startup amperage that poses a problem since it is MUCH higher than normal amperage during the 35W operation due to the required power to initiate the HID bulbs. Besides, if you're flickering HID bulbs, you're in for a blown bulb real quick, so you're going to be in for problems no matter what.
This harness problem is dependent on the car and whether or not it has a beefy enough harness. On some cars that have really weak harnesses (some older Civics in particular), the harnesses had issues keeping up and would fry well within a year.
If you think your car's stock wiring is tough enough, then that's your call, but there's no reason to take a chance when you can just pay $50 (or less if you make it yourself) for an upgraded wiring harness that doesn't draw power through your stock system and takes directly from the battery. It's a prevantative measure. In the end, you can't say for sure that you've had thousands of customers without a single harness issue since it's more than likely that those who did simply did not bother to report the issue to you and fixed the harness on their own. Honestly what would you do even if they did report that one of your HID kits fried a harness? Would you cough up the dough to replace it? I doubt it, so why waste time?
This harness problem is dependent on the car and whether or not it has a beefy enough harness. On some cars that have really weak harnesses (some older Civics in particular), the harnesses had issues keeping up and would fry well within a year.
If you think your car's stock wiring is tough enough, then that's your call, but there's no reason to take a chance when you can just pay $50 (or less if you make it yourself) for an upgraded wiring harness that doesn't draw power through your stock system and takes directly from the battery. It's a prevantative measure. In the end, you can't say for sure that you've had thousands of customers without a single harness issue since it's more than likely that those who did simply did not bother to report the issue to you and fixed the harness on their own. Honestly what would you do even if they did report that one of your HID kits fried a harness? Would you cough up the dough to replace it? I doubt it, so why waste time?
I guess its a price you pay for the convinience of the installation. Otherwise, like you suggest, if you think your car's stock harness is not strong enough, you can have it wired straight to the battery. to avoid such burn outs.
As for the warranty - well, I'll keep this in mind for future reference. For cars with weak harnesses, I'll recommend them to do the wires directly to the battery. For those customers who have already done so, if their wires do end up burning out, I will provide reimbursement for the stock harness.
I pay for all the shipping costs for all replacement parts - even the shipping cost to return bad parts back if there was any.
#52
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Originally Posted by alexis525
wow i would love to get a set of h1s for my new cedia style headlamps, is this price going up anytime soon?
Price wont go down any further however.
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Originally Posted by DarkMastyr
Ignition cannot be 22,000 volts. That defies logic. You do not have some massive inverter built into the ballast. That would be a pointless design anyways. The ballast runs on ~12-14V, period. Startup simply draws more AMPERAGE. Voltage is potential, amperage is the actual current that's being supplied at a given potential. Potential * Current = actual power delivered, i.e. V*I=P, and no we're not talking about Very Important Persons here.
Example: 35 watt operation. Let's say the car runs at 14.4V potential during operation. That means that you're drawing 35/14.4 = 2.43 amps during regular operation.
The question here is, just how much current (amps) does your ballast draw at startup? We can figure out the power (watts) from there.
Example: 35 watt operation. Let's say the car runs at 14.4V potential during operation. That means that you're drawing 35/14.4 = 2.43 amps during regular operation.
The question here is, just how much current (amps) does your ballast draw at startup? We can figure out the power (watts) from there.
#55
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Originally Posted by Evo_Bill
GB list?
1. Evo_bill
1. Evo_bill
I've decided to sell it as poeple order - no need to wait for the GB.
Same price as GB pricing as well.
Which kit were you interested in?
#56
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Got 9006 kits, 6000K and 6500K available for EVO IX !
5000K coming in soon (PM me or email me to reserve it).
sales@autodoodad.com
5000K coming in soon (PM me or email me to reserve it).
sales@autodoodad.com