Say whatever you like but that can not be true.
I do not know how you guys calculate the power out there in the States, but c'mon, be reasonable!
IF the factory claims the car has 295HP which would be about 230WHP(am I right?) how in the world you could get a ONE HUNDRED HP just from god damn drop-in?!
Pure Sci-fi to me.

My car is bone stock and slightly tuned. It shows 333HP at the flywheel.
AT THE FLYWHEEL.
I know it is possible to make it up to 350HP which would be around 280WHP.
I am going to replace inlet, UICP, exhaust and I am hoping for 390-410HP which would make about 320-330WHP.

Here in Poland, we recently learned that the graph is for nothing - just to make you feel better.
If you disagree, take two cars dynoed on different dynos and check it for yourself.

Last but not least - it is good to see that the owner is happy.
And, eventually, that is the most important thing.

 

No, you are not thinking about it correctly.

A motor needs more air that will be ignited to make more power. Not the amount or grade of the fuel. You can ride around on 100 octane fuel with 1000cc injectors all day and not see an ounce of whp. Read up on fuel injected motors.

A car needs O2 that can burn in order to make horsepower. On the same vein, the fuel is required in order to burn that O2. The Evo X's stock fuel injectors are more than big enough to handle the extra air going into the engine from turning up the boost on the stock turbo.

 

The thread is misleading. The OP made 100whp not just from the K&N drop-in but from turning up the boost, adding the k&N drop-in (which didn't do much of anything ~5whp at the most), and tuning the car.

The big whp increase came from the tuning.

-M

 

You could also try running 29psi on low octane pump gas and watch your motor knock itself to death. I'd be willing to believe that increased air volume and fuel are both required to make more power but you seem to be implying that it's all about boost. That's not correct.

 

If you noticed, I said more boost that's "properly ignited". The fuel is the supporting mod for the increase in air volume, not the other way around. In that regard, it is all about more air volume that gets properly burned to make more power. Larger injectors, and higher octane also needs to be supported by volume of fuel reaching the injectors (i.e. fuel pump).

I'm stating that fuel alone will never make more power. Air will - up to the point where you have uncontrolled burning (i.e. detonation or preignition).

 

Thanks, obviously the 35Rs make a ton more power on the same fuel so that must be correct.

 

I think many of you are reading too much into the dyno numbers and how they compare to other dynos with various calibrations scattered around the world. Without knowing what a factory un-altered Evo X runs on this particular dyno with no mods and stock boost levels the 330 whp number is just that, a number. I'm sure it's a great gain over what he had before but you can't just compare it directly to anything else besides other numbers obtained on this particular dyno.

Getting some real world trap speeds from a quarter mile run would also confirm power levels, but likely a DynoJet with an average of 20% losses would have to trap around 111 mph and deliver around 395 crank HP if it really was making a 330 whp on such a dyno. It's probably not impossible with perfect tuning but likely isn't quite that good.

Perhaps you are basing this on the fact the stock turbo is quickly maxxed for flow past 5500 RPM's which limits peak power gains but people should never just be looking at the peak gains but at the entire "power under the curve" when determining the benefits of various mods. I'm not sure what brands of bolt-ons you have tested that fail so miserably to produce power everywhere but I've seen plenty of proof where a higher flow & more efficient FMIC can give you power across the entire RPM range, as can exhaust systems, cams, exhaust headers and intake manifolds. Intercooler piping and throttlebodies likely are not going to gain much as you mention at 300-400 crank HP levels but they most certainly can increase power when they start becoming a bottleneck in the system past 400-500 crank HP.

Looks like this tune has really improved how the car uses the mostly stock components, adding furter bolt-ons and tuning for them should net even better gains down the road.

 

Agreed.

 

I just don't have the $1k's to spend on dyno time to add one part at a time and see what the changes are. That forces me to look at finished products--other X's on the same dyno.

It takes quite a bump in power to actually feel the difference when you go out to drive the car. The real question is whether the parts are worth the money. Obviously if you are building a 500hp car then you need all of supporting mods. With a stock turbo half of the mods that people do just aren't worth the money, imo. Anyone who can feel the difference of an fmic upgrade has a finely tuned butt dyno, indeed.

 

OK.
But tell me something - how to get 100WHP from tuning on a full-stock car, without replacing restrictive exhaust, UICP, inlet line (and hey, why ppl do that at all?).
Something is not right here...
Can you imagine how much more air and fuel you need to supply for those abt. 150HP at the flywheel???
Sorry, but I still do not consider it possible.

 

I think everything in this thread is getting read into way to much. IMO I dont go to the dyno to see how much power I can make or what it will peak at. If the graph is smooth and the car is not running like **** I would be happy with 300/300. Its not all about WHP its about the smoothness of the graph, how it holds power, and all in all if the owner of the car is happy. Thats all.

 

If you would like sir when I get off of work I will post up my baseline run compared to after my tune. I picked up 65 whp just from the tune. The tune on this car is where your going to make your power not from the thousands your drop in from aftermarket parts.

 

You will pick up the bulk of your power from a tune, but even the tune requires turning up the boost. You won't get much of anything with a tune and stock boost.

Also, if you don't change the exhaust, it will quickly become a bottleneck and hamper volumetric efficiency which will cause your car to peek out in whp and produce no more power.

 

I am not nor was I ever saying your posts in this thread were not correct. I was simply stating what I thought of everything that was being said and how everyone now a days seems to only care about numbers and how much WHP you are making and not the smoothness of the graph which in turns says how well the car runs.

 

That is not 100% true. You can have a tune and still stay on stock boost. But I do agree its almost pointless to get a tune and leave it at stock boost but you still can if you want. A lot of the power also comes from configuring the AFR and letting it lean out from its rich factory tune opening more air up.