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DD Evo X - BB-X, Built Block - 450+ WHP

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Old Dec 21, 2011, 11:06 AM
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DD Evo X - BB-X, Built Block - 450+ WHP

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Fuel: 91 octane

That's uncorrected at 4400-ish feet above sea level. Several Virtual Dyno runs produced results ranging from 435-475 WHP depending on the flatness of the road and cleanliness of the run. I will be visiting the local AWD Mustang Dyno as soon as their shop re-opens. Results should be good as I've smoothed out the AFR curve, along with adding another couple degrees of timing up top (15 degrees total advance at 8000 rpm).

Corrected numbers are approximately 505-515 WHP DynoJet depending on the correction type.

Looking forward to 11's next year at the drag strip!

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Block: brand new OEM 4B11T short block
Crankshaft + Main Bearings: OEM as-is
Pistons: AMS-spec JE 2618 alloy 9:1, 86.0 mm stock bore
Rings: JE rings, gapped to 0.019" up top, 0.021" second, 0.015" oil control
Rods: Manley H-beam, ARP2000 fasteners
Rod bearings: ACL Race, stock-like clearance
Oil: Mobil 1 0W-40 European Formula, true Group IV-based oil

Cylinder head: stock
Valves: stock
Camshafts: stock
Head studs: ARP2000
Head gasket: OEM 5-layer (IIRC) MLS gasket - good piece

Exhaust manifold
: mildly ported OEM
Turbo: CBRD BB-X, Blouch ported turbine side
O2 housing: stock, non-ported
Downpipe: Invidia 3" downpipe/catless test pipe combo
Exhaust: Invidia 3" single-tip, N1 style

Intercooler: ETS 3" properly sized for my setup
Intercooler piping: ETS 2.5", powder coated Flat Candy Red by Unknown Coatings
Aftercooling: Snow Performance Stage 2 methanol injection system

Fuel pump: hot-wired OEM in-tank pump
Inline pump: Walbro GSL-392 255 L/h external pump (AMS 600 hp Evo X fuel pump kit)
Injectors: FIC 1100 cc/min, 78% duty cycle max

Transmission: Upgraded and rebuilt by Jack's Transmissions
Center diff: Also upgraded by Jack's Transmissions
Clutch: ACT 6-puck, HD pressure plate (not Xtreme)
Flywheel: ACT StreetLite
Fluid: Red Line cocktail (2:1 MTL to MT-90)

Tune: by yours truly, TephraXMod v1, PSI-based boost control with Omni 4-bar MAP, richardjh's RAX patch for altitude- and temperature-based boost compensation


I've yet to decide on my camshaft and spring setup, but it will be mild and streetable. My future goals are to simply increase the reliability of this current setup, hopefully switching to a stock frame ball-bearing turbo variant, even though I do really enjoy the CBRD turbo I have.

Last edited by UT_EvoX; Dec 21, 2011 at 11:14 AM.
Old Dec 21, 2011, 09:29 PM
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Very thurough info and very clean under the hood! Great power from what is basically a simple setup.

*edit* just noticed you also are running an alky kit...badass!

Last edited by scheides; Dec 21, 2011 at 09:32 PM.
Old Dec 21, 2011, 09:44 PM
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Originally Posted by scheides
Very thurough info and very clean under the hood! Great power from what is basically a simple setup.

*edit* just noticed you also are running an alky kit...badass!
Thank you!

I've been pleasantly surprised at how effortlessly this BB-X setup makes good power. I'm up approximately 20% in power from when I first thought I maxed out this turbo, mainly due to advances in the open source tuning world since 2009.

Yep, I'm running methanol injection and was running it on top of E85 until I found out that either I'm out of pump, injector (more likely), or the local E85 supply is just whack. Either way, I'm back to 91 with pretty much 93 octane timing - not going to blow anything up if my methanol system fails on me, which is nice. I can't decide whether to get Snow's failsafe system or go with a whole new system later next year. All I know is it's super easy to set up failsafe maps using TephraXMod.

I have one slight concern with the amount of piston slap I'm hearing this winter, but not too worried since I haven't blown out my dipstick once, have burnt maybe 1/3 qt of oil in the past 1000 miles, and leak down shows no more than 12% on what is a fairly loose engine to begin with. All I know is I keenly remember this kind of noise with my last set of 2618 pistons on a different platform, especially during winter time when it literally takes 15-20 minutes of driving to get the engine up to true operating temperature.
Old Dec 21, 2011, 10:01 PM
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The best fail-safe method out there is an Aquamist alky kit (I'd currently recommend the hfs-3) integrated properly (and tested) with tephra's mods on the stock ecu. I was lucky enough to pioneer this setup with tephra on the CT9A platform and I put a solid 50k miles on it without any issues. I have graphs posted in the alky section of the testing, check them out.

X is tough to get enough fuel into on e85. My BBX maxed out a dw300 and fic 1680's at only 26psi (but my car has cams and ported head, tubular manifold, etc) and the solution for me was a boost-a-pump. This setup has served me well all summer/fall and im going to be playing with the dw400 pump here soon. You could try a BAP with your external pump if you like but I think a set of 1680s or 2150s might be a better option for ya.

Just enjoy it!
Old Dec 21, 2011, 10:54 PM
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Wow, if you ran out of injector with 1680's, that was most definitely my problem. After about 95% IDC or so, I lost injector control and started going way lean. The best I could possibly do safely would be an E40-E50 mix.
Old Dec 22, 2011, 05:36 AM
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I wanna know more about this piston slap?
Old Dec 22, 2011, 08:44 AM
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very clean build sir! enjoy it
Old Dec 22, 2011, 01:48 PM
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Originally Posted by 4B11AWD
I wanna know more about this piston slap?
It's a noise that persists until the engine reaches full operating temperature (after it sees at least a few pulls). It's mainly concentrated around 1500-2000 rpm and goes away after that. It sounds like textbook forged piston slap to me.

This will give you some idea as to how it sounds: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A3CipBVgGQc - the noise greatly diminishes after the engine is up to temperature.

I checked my plugs again last night and they're all perfectly clean and undamaged, so I know it's not a cracked ring land or similar issue. Also, I'm burning less oil than I did stock even with much, much looser ring end gaps.

I'm guessing the stock block I had wasn't perfect, so I have a little extra piston to cylinder wall clearance. I would have measured it, but my digital bore meter got lost. Ack.

This spring, I'll probably get a set of 4032-alloy SRP pistons from AMS and use those instead after cleaning up the existing bores.

Originally Posted by Hakke
very clean build sir! enjoy it
Thanks man! I should have some photos of the new setup on Facebook tonight or tomorrow, so stay tuned
Old Dec 22, 2011, 08:30 PM
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well done, props for DIY! Any pics of the car?
Old Dec 23, 2011, 07:53 AM
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awesome stuff-

thanks for your support!

cb
Old Dec 23, 2011, 11:12 AM
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Originally Posted by CBRD
awesome stuff-

thanks for your support!

cb
Thanks Chad, any plans to produce a ball-bearing housing BB-X? If not, I believe the TAK-33RB setup is the one for me You'll probably see an order for a kit sometime next year.

Originally Posted by mindovaanything
well done, props for DIY! Any pics of the car?
Thank you! I really am glad I purchased the Evo X as a project car. It's so easy to keep everything simple and clean on a pre-boosted platform.

I am very excited today as I'll be picking up my new powder coated wheels. I'll have photos up in another thread over this xmas weekend!
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