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Passport 8500 x50 "stealth" install

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Old May 4, 2009, 04:22 PM
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VERY nicely done.

I mean, I permanently installed my V1, but since I don't have to hide it it is simply a "covert" install. Yours is fully stealth!

Cool.
Old May 5, 2009, 09:43 AM
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sweet idea man,came out very clean
Old May 5, 2009, 10:36 AM
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thanks.

I figured out that the wires for the speaker running back to the interior that were in the same bundle as the wires for the city/dim buttons would cause interference at the highest alert level (loudest) and randomly toggle city & dim. I ran back a new pair of wires for the speaker and it fixed the problem.
Old May 5, 2009, 01:22 PM
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pretty crazy, glad i don't have to hide my radar lol. . . .
Old May 5, 2009, 05:19 PM
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Very interesting stuff. I created a thread about this probably over a year ago. Lot of hit but no solutions.

Care to break the whole process down step by step?

I see you mounted the actual detector thing in the front bumper. Do you have another one for the rear? Can you also give us some feedback as to its detection capabilities? Based on what I have read laser is best detected mounted lower and radar is best at the highest point. Did you take this all into consideration?
Old May 5, 2009, 05:25 PM
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i like this. i was going to get rid of my x50 and get a v1 because of the stealthiness but you mighta just saved me some money. Great job!
Old May 5, 2009, 06:49 PM
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Originally Posted by heel2toe
Very interesting stuff. I created a thread about this probably over a year ago. Lot of hit but no solutions.

Care to break the whole process down step by step?

I see you mounted the actual detector thing in the front bumper. Do you have another one for the rear? Can you also give us some feedback as to its detection capabilities? Based on what I have read laser is best detected mounted lower and radar is best at the highest point. Did you take this all into consideration?
based on my options (full stealth required) it came down to a rearview mirror install or bumper. I headed down to the local pick and pull and got the deepest rearview mirror i could find and mounted the smallest case i could make and it was just way to obvious so i was forced to go to the bumper. the location i chose was obviously the highest point i could go. the rear facing sensor is to pick up laser, so yes i gave that part of protection up but i helped justify it by a semi-reasonable rationalization that if i pick up laser i am already toast. radar from teh rear is picked up as reflections off of objects infront of you so that level is still there. the location is lower and will be obstructed if you tailgate. i do nearly all city driving and i am getting the same level of alerts i did before the "relocation" to the bumper.

The basic steps i took was to open the case of the radar detector and hook it up. I used a multimeter to test each of the button solder points to make sure i used the correct ones. each momentary switch had 4 possible points to connect to. I soldered 4 wires (2 for city and 2 for dark) and 2 more for the speaker and ran those 6 together in a 6 wire phone cord. this in hindsight was a bad idea becuase the amount of juice going to teh speaker was enough to toggle the city and dark sensors. escort used hyper sensitive switches. i could hold the bare wire in 1 hand and touch the connecting wire with my other hand to toggle it. i since ran an additional 2 wire cord back for the speaker.

the next step was desoldering the led display from the board. this was very time consuming since my desoldering bulb wouldn't pick up any of the solder so i slowly heated and scraped it away very carefully. the led display used 6 connections so i used a second 6 wire phonecord and ran that back to the interior. i used https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...lean-hell.html to run the wires. a metal clothes hanger proved usefull for somthing other than cleaning the wife out.

once i had the wires inside the led display was just some doublesided tape. teh switches in the center are from radio shack. I cut the bottom out of the cup that i installed the switches to. i taped off about 1/2 way down and poured bondo in to create the 1st platform for mounting the switches. sanded drilled and painted it for a decent fit. i did the same thing for the lid.
Old May 5, 2009, 07:00 PM
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great job.

people would probably pay you to do this if you offered it.
Old May 5, 2009, 07:03 PM
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Originally Posted by truDriver
great job.

people would probably pay you to do this if you offered it.
only truely useful in the VA/DC area.. not sure why
Old May 5, 2009, 07:25 PM
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Looks good, but lost its 360 degree protection.
Old May 5, 2009, 07:54 PM
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Originally Posted by aftershock141
Looks good, but lost its 360 degree protection.
It lost it's laser detection.. It still has full 360 radar detection as good as any other one mounted...

Radar is captured off deflection such as deflection off trees, overpasses, other cars...

Laser getting detected is as good as getting a ticket. There's no avoiding it. That's what the rear sensor is for... picking up laser behind.
Old May 5, 2009, 07:55 PM
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Originally Posted by newcomer81
The basic steps i took was to open the case of the radar detector and hook it up. I used a multimeter to test each of the button solder points to make sure i used the correct ones. each momentary switch had 4 possible points to connect to. I soldered 4 wires (2 for city and 2 for dark) and 2 more for the speaker and ran those 6 together in a 6 wire phone cord. this in hindsight was a bad idea becuase the amount of juice going to teh speaker was enough to toggle the city and dark sensors. escort used hyper sensitive switches. i could hold the bare wire in 1 hand and touch the connecting wire with my other hand to toggle it. i since ran an additional 2 wire cord back for the speaker.

the next step was desoldering the led display from the board. this was very time consuming since my desoldering bulb wouldn't pick up any of the solder so i slowly heated and scraped it away very carefully. the led display used 6 connections so i used a second 6 wire phonecord and ran that back to the interior.
Can you further explain the process with the multimeter? I am more of a novice when it comes to wiring things. I have installed a bunch of different stereos in cars along with wiring lights, switches and gauges, however have little experience when it comes to splitting apart the actual electronics.
Old May 5, 2009, 08:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Koroshiya
It lost it's laser detection.. It still has full 360 radar detection as good as any other one mounted...

Radar is captured off deflection such as deflection off trees, overpasses, other cars...

Laser getting detected is as good as getting a ticket. There's no avoiding it. That's what the rear sensor is for... picking up laser behind.
How does it have the 360 degree protection? Where's the sensor located?

I know how radar works. I was figuring that the sensor was still attached to the box, which is in your front bumper. If it were, it would only be able to catch the light refracting from the front of the vehicle.
Old May 5, 2009, 08:18 PM
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Originally Posted by aftershock141
How does it have the 360 degree protection? Where's the sensor located?

I know how radar works. I was figuring that the sensor was still attached to the box, which is in your front bumper. If it were, it would only be able to catch the light refracting from the front of the vehicle.
sorry but i believe you have some misconceptions on how radar is picked up.
from: http://radartest.com/article.asp?art...1#360Detection
Detecting radar coming from behind is useful, though. And contrary to popular myth, a rear radar antenna isn't required. Any sensitive radar detector will detect radar coming from behind when the beam reflects from objects ahead and reflects back into the antenna. I've routinely seen 5,000 feet of detection range in sensitive detectors, and that's in unfavorable conditions.

so i am not giving up 360 degree radar protection. i am only giving up rear laser. as for front laser i have actually greatly increased my detection by placing it where cops shoot the laser to get readings (license plate/ headlights)
Old May 5, 2009, 08:25 PM
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Originally Posted by heel2toe
Can you further explain the process with the multimeter? I am more of a novice when it comes to wiring things. I have installed a bunch of different stereos in cars along with wiring lights, switches and gauges, however have little experience when it comes to splitting apart the actual electronics.
the multimeter is a handy little device to easily test connection continuity and voltage levels (along with a ton of other things) that helps identify which circuits are completed when pressing down each of the buttons. a cheap detector can be had off of ebay pretty low now a days and would be a safe way to practice before taking apart a $300+ one =) since the connections are small soldering each of your splices becomes pretty important as well as a good small tip on your soldering iron. be extra careful of overheating the display or circuit boards. they heat up very fast.


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