witch battery
Feb 3, 2010, 12:20 PM
#16
Former Sponsor
Hello, I saw some references to our batteries and wanted to help any way that I could. I agree with the previous advice given by both badandyturbo and atombomb33. As much as we’d like to have you as a customer, a “Big 3” upgrade and a larger capacity alternator are both wise investments and should probably be done before you upgrade your battery, or to prevent the need to prematurely replace your battery.
The reason is that if your lights are dimming it means at that moment your alternator isn’t able to provide enough power, which likely also means your alternator may not be keeping your battery charged properly. Although a new battery (particularly an Optima, due to it’s lower internal resistance) can mask the dimming, many people end up with a cycle of premature battery failures because the battery is not getting charged properly.
I know some folks have mentioned they are using RedTops, but if your electrical demands are so great that they are causing dimming of your headlights, a YellowTop is really a more appropriate option.
Both YellowTops and RedTops are Spiralcell AGM-style lead-acid (not gel) batteries. An appropriately-sized YellowTop will still offer plenty of cranking amps, even in cold weather, while also providing deep-cycle capabilities. If you have any other battery-related questions, I’ll do my best to answer them.
Jim McIlvaine
eCare Manager, OPTIMA Batteries, Inc.
The reason is that if your lights are dimming it means at that moment your alternator isn’t able to provide enough power, which likely also means your alternator may not be keeping your battery charged properly. Although a new battery (particularly an Optima, due to it’s lower internal resistance) can mask the dimming, many people end up with a cycle of premature battery failures because the battery is not getting charged properly.
I know some folks have mentioned they are using RedTops, but if your electrical demands are so great that they are causing dimming of your headlights, a YellowTop is really a more appropriate option.
Both YellowTops and RedTops are Spiralcell AGM-style lead-acid (not gel) batteries. An appropriately-sized YellowTop will still offer plenty of cranking amps, even in cold weather, while also providing deep-cycle capabilities. If you have any other battery-related questions, I’ll do my best to answer them.
Jim McIlvaine
eCare Manager, OPTIMA Batteries, Inc.
Last edited by atombomb33; Feb 10, 2010 at 05:57 AM.
Feb 9, 2010, 08:51 PM
#18
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you have to make sure you get the right battery. Mitsu put in a special battery for the fumes batteries put out. If you get the wrong kind you could get knocked out from the fumes FYI!
Feb 19, 2010, 07:24 AM
#20
Former Sponsor
Hi Casper, a group 35 battery is the correct size for your application. However, I should mention that although our batteries are sealed, it is important that any lead-acid battery has proper ventilation. ALL lead-acid batteries can vent gas. Traditional wet batteries do this immediately when recharged, since they are not sealed. Sealed lead-acid batteries like Optimas and all other “dry cell” AGM batteries have safety release valves that should only vent if they are seriously overcharged.
Under normal operating conditions, an AGM battery will not vent gas. Since alternators or chargers can fail, the safest and correct mounting method for trunks and passenger compartments is to make sure that any possible gas venting will escape to the outside of the vehicle. All vehicles with original equipment battery locations in trunks or passenger compartments will have a vent provision that should be used. If someone custom-mounts a battery in a trunk or passenger compartment we recommend venting the battery to the outside of the vehicle as well. Optima group 27, 51, 78, 34C, and 31 batteries all have ports for connecting a vent hose. Other AGM manufacturers can tell you which of their batteries have ports for venting.
Although people do it anyway, we would never recommend installing an unvented battery in any enclosed space, because there’s a legitimate, albeit unlikely, safety risk involved.
For example, IF there is a voltage regulator failure, and IF the battery is severely overcharged, and IF this goes unnoticed, and IF the battery vents because the internal pressure exceeds the release pressure of the vents, the gasses are both flammable and toxic. This may sound like a lot of “ifs,” but attorneys and engineers get paid to plan for every worst-case scenario. If you have any other questions, I’ll do my best to answer them.
Jim McIlvaine
eCare Manager, OPTIMA Batteries, Inc.
www.facebook.com/optimabatteries
Under normal operating conditions, an AGM battery will not vent gas. Since alternators or chargers can fail, the safest and correct mounting method for trunks and passenger compartments is to make sure that any possible gas venting will escape to the outside of the vehicle. All vehicles with original equipment battery locations in trunks or passenger compartments will have a vent provision that should be used. If someone custom-mounts a battery in a trunk or passenger compartment we recommend venting the battery to the outside of the vehicle as well. Optima group 27, 51, 78, 34C, and 31 batteries all have ports for connecting a vent hose. Other AGM manufacturers can tell you which of their batteries have ports for venting.
Although people do it anyway, we would never recommend installing an unvented battery in any enclosed space, because there’s a legitimate, albeit unlikely, safety risk involved.
For example, IF there is a voltage regulator failure, and IF the battery is severely overcharged, and IF this goes unnoticed, and IF the battery vents because the internal pressure exceeds the release pressure of the vents, the gasses are both flammable and toxic. This may sound like a lot of “ifs,” but attorneys and engineers get paid to plan for every worst-case scenario. If you have any other questions, I’ll do my best to answer them.
Jim McIlvaine
eCare Manager, OPTIMA Batteries, Inc.
www.facebook.com/optimabatteries
Apr 12, 2012, 07:05 AM
#22
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How difficult would it be to do the big 3 upgrade on the X? Do we have a DIY for this?
In the world of car audio capacitors are a joke. They just look cool and some even show you voltage. The quick fix is upgrading you existing battery with a deep cell.
I prefer Kinetik. Optima are decent but not the best.
Along with upgrading the battery you can do what is called the big 3.
Big 3 = upgraded wire from battery to alt., battery to chassis, chassis to engine block
If these two upgrades don't fix the problem its time to upgrade to a high output alt.
capacitor = waste of money
battery = easy fix but can be pricey
big 3 = easy fix and cheap
HO alt = expensive
I prefer Kinetik. Optima are decent but not the best.
Along with upgrading the battery you can do what is called the big 3.
Big 3 = upgraded wire from battery to alt., battery to chassis, chassis to engine block
If these two upgrades don't fix the problem its time to upgrade to a high output alt.
capacitor = waste of money
battery = easy fix but can be pricey
big 3 = easy fix and cheap
HO alt = expensive
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