bigmatt33

So I have the base audio system and I need something a little bit better, so here is what I am thinking.

stock head unit (for now) going to a JL XD 500/3 (75x2 for the up front and 300x1 for the sub. For the bass I'm getting a JL 10W3 and for the up front JL C2-650 component set (this is probably over kill for a system based on the factory head unit) If I have the cash I'm going to get a wicked box.

Thats what I'm going with for now, later I might get the JL clean sweep but more likely I will just replace the head unit with an Alpine DVD/Navigation.

I'm not doing anything to the back speakers because, well I don't sit back there. I will take pics of the whole install when I do it and post them.

Englando

iTrader: (2)

Some nice components here.

If you want some real base I have a brand new high current competition amp for sale. I'd do you a good deal on it...it's a $700 amp ($1000 when I bought it).

shuttlex528

Start with the head unit. Saves money in the long run. What I mean by that is. The stock unit is high level wiring. (speaker wires). You want low level wiring to go to your amps(rca wires). You can transfer voltage and better quality sound that way. You could buy high to low output converters but again wasting money and you still loose sound quality. The clean sweep is the other option. It does all that for you as well and is fantastic but won't really need it once you go with the after market head unit. Save that money as well. I'm going by the info you gave that you are upgrading the head unit later on. If you keeping the stock head unit then the clean sweep is the way to go.

bigmatt33

I have decided to put the system in using a line converter and later putting in Alpine Nav. I might do a custom install and put the 8in screen in.

So I have taken the back seat out, the trim panels, and the door panels. I am running wire from the stock speaker wire to the line converter. I have put in the tweeters and the mids. The mids needs a mounting bracket that is about a half inch thick to fit. I have run all the wires to the truck. I still need to run an acc wire and the amp gain.

I will be building an amp rack between the battery and washer fluid tank. The rack will also hold the cross overs.

shuttlex528

Amps are easy with the battery in the trunk. Easiest amp install for me yet

bigmatt33

I went with a scorche line converter and that didn't work well. The signal was weak so I had to turn the amp gains up but then I got engine wine. So I went with a much better audio control LS2.

The system is in and works great. I am still waiting on the wicked box.

jakartatomcat

Do any of you consider upgrading to a high output alternator when installing all this gear?
Is the stock alternator pumping out enough power so that you dont get dimming lights?

kevinlambchops

depends on how much power you plan to be drawing. What are you planning to install?

jakartatomcat

I have:

-Alpine PDX F4 (400W 4chan) driving Type R components up front
and Type R 6-1/2 in the back doors

-PDX M6 (600W mono) driving an Type-R 12" woofer.

So basically 1000 Watts.

I had this system installed in my previous car (08 Lancer GTS) with stock alternator and battery. I was able to use it for about 1 year until I started having a hard time turning on car, excessive light dimming and the window electric motors got slower.