For anyone looking for pins:

For the OP2.0 your best option is a OBDII extension or something like one of these: http://www.ebay.com/itm/On-Sale-Universal-16-Pin-Female-Connector-for-OBD2-Free-Shipping-A-2-N27-/261237837870?pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&hash=item3cd2fd102e&vxp=mtr
If you are in a pinch you can use the power supply connectors off a standard molex connector (that plugs into an old CD-ROM or hard drive for power). They have 2 tangs you press together to slide them out... I just clamped mine in a vise and hit the connector with a coping saw really quick. These look like this (this connector gives you 8 pins):
http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2

For the ECU side standard jumper pins should work:
like this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Jumper-Wire-Assortment-104-Pcs-Male-Male-Male-Female-Female-Female-2-5-Delivery-/261153158255?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3ccdf0f46for this http://www.pololu.com/catalog/product/1700

In a pinch you can use a CD-Audio connector like this:
http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2

....to de-pin these is even easier. Usually there is a plastic tang (on the side you cant see in those pics) and you can just lift with a thumb tac as you slide it out.

Note that on these connectors the ground may be an un-shielded cable, so for each 4-pin cable you may only get 4 total connectors per 2 sided cable (2x left, 2x right, 2x ground).
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Make sure to get extra heat shrink wrap to cover up your pins!

 

Would a 12v dc 1000mA be enough to get this done? Or do I need more ampere?

 

FYI for anyone looking for power to make their flash work without a way to get good power.

I had an old ATX power supply laying around that I used with the CD audio connectors described above to connect to the ECU and MOLEX connectors stripped out of their housing for the OP. It is all connected to a standard MOLEX connector so it is easy to plug in.

The only real trick here is knowing that shorting the green wire on an ATX power supply to ground is what starts it up. So once I plug everything in I jump that wire and get nice, clean, stable, cheap/free power.

The only gotcha is to remember that red is +5v and yellow is the +12v that you want to tie into. Also, the MOLEX connectors may not be totally tight, so crimping them a bit can help. I wouldn't be super confident in it for a high vibration environment though if they don't feel tight at all.

 

So I'm pretty sure I'm bricked (still troubleshooting with Tactrix) and am getting my ducks in a row. I assume this procedure is still accurate? That is there haven't been others posts I've missed with updates? I'll be doing this to a 2010 SE with a failed flash / stuck in programming mode and I can't get it out.

 

Is this possible to do with an MH7202F Evo 6 RS ECU?? I've got it all wired up correctly ready to benchflash it, but my ECUFlash doesn't actually have this "recovery mode" in the options menu

 

So what am I missing here with the new release? I've loaded a stock tune, then click on the icon with the + but I still get the same error. Every time.

Anyone offer this service I can overnight my ecu to?