michiganevox

I just got my wide band O2 sensor so I can start logging and tuning. I just want to get some wire routing ideas. The LC-1 comes with a big control unit and large connector that will not go through the OEM grommets for the factory O2 sensors. What have you guys done? I don't want to leave the control unit under the car. I was thinking about cutting the connector off the sensor and sending the wires through the slit in the grommet of of the OEM o2 sensor. I plan to leave enough of a pigtail so that I can then reattach the connector by soldering the wires back together and reseal the grommet with some silicone. This way the control unit could sit under the passenger seat if I use the rear O2 grommet or in the center dash board area if I use the front O2 sensor grommet.

JimGVT

iTrader: (6)

I mounted the LC-1 control unit on the side of the center console in the passenger foot well and then routed the sensor down through the grommet for the factory O2 sensor in the passenger foot well. Just had to make the opening in the grommet larger...much easier than splicing the wires. The sensor will fit - you just have to feed it down from inside the car rather than trying to put the control unit up from underneath.

richardjh

Being devil's advocate for a moment, I've had good results (so far) with the controller mounted in the engine bay.

Here are some quick pics of my installation. Please bear in mind this is a RHD Ralliart Lancer.

My LC-1 controller is fitted midway up the firewall, with the sensor lead threaded behind a convenient wiring loom, down to the bung in the exhaust. Cable ties do the job of holding it all in place...



Here, I've highlighted the route taken for the upper cabling.


On an Evo, the radiated heat from the turbocharger might be more of an issue in this location. That controller might not work so well if it's a molten lump of dripping sludge!


Anyway, next...

There's a convenient spare opening into the vehicle interior, here... this is "passenger side" on my RHD vehicle...



It was easy to get the LC-1 cable in through there. Again, I've highlighted the cable route.


Behind the glove box is the interior fuse box. I used a patch-style fuse link from the reversing light circuit to power the LC-1...



Note: That photo shows a 10A patch fuse, but the reversing light circuit normally has a 7.5A fuse. When I can find a 7.5A patch fuse link on sale, I'll correct that.


Ground was connected to an existing grounding bolt in the same area, near the floor.


As you can see, this is all designed to be removable. No wires cut, grommets modified, etc. This may not work for you - beware the t/c heat - but it does the trick on my car pretty well.

Hope this gives you some ideas!

Rich