What AFR for partial throttle accel.
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What AFR for partial throttle accel.
I know what the AFR should be for WOT but what should i tune the AFR to be during partial throttle? I usually hit around 10-15 psi and shift around 4.5k rpm. What should i tune the AFR to be? I have been DD my car recently, so i wanna save on some gas.
I was rich before i started to tune it (11.0 by 4.5k rpm). Right now i am at 11.8-12.0, do you think that is safe?
I was rich before i started to tune it (11.0 by 4.5k rpm). Right now i am at 11.8-12.0, do you think that is safe?
#2
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I know what the AFR should be for WOT but what should i tune the AFR to be during partial throttle? I usually hit around 10-15 psi and shift around 4.5k rpm. What should i tune the AFR to be? I have been DD my car recently, so i wanna save on some gas.
I was rich before i started to tune it (11.0 by 4.5k rpm). Right now i am at 11.8-12.0, do you think that is safe?
I was rich before i started to tune it (11.0 by 4.5k rpm). Right now i am at 11.8-12.0, do you think that is safe?
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My mivec is pretty aggressive i think and my WGA is a Blouch so its around 22 psi. I have been playing with my boost at WOT and it starts to knock around 26 psi. Idk if my mivec is alittle to aggresive or if my 93 oct sucks.
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I am new at this. I can not push more than 25 psi or my car starts to knock. Could this be the 93 oct or too much timing aroung 4.5k rpms or is my mivec to aggresive? I ran 28 psi on my stock turbo with this gas. I have an FP red now.
Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Last edited by rrkpitt15; Sep 7, 2011 at 09:39 AM.
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I tend to shoot for 13.0 -> 12.5 AFR for 1-10 psi and 12.5 -> 12.0 AFR from 11-20. Once at 20+ psi you want to be around your target WOT AFR which is typically 11.5 or so. Make sure you setup the Closed Loop Trim control to a lower number so that LTFT's don't constantly kick in at above 10 psi or it will vary quite a bit. Shooting for 12.5 on average is a safe bet, just takes time doing multiple part throttle pulls at 5 psi, 10 psi, 15 psi and 20 psi in different gears to verify. Also check your Open Loop load maps which determine what load percent you leave closed loop. You could change map values all day in the 2000-3500 range at low boost and never see results if it is still in closed loop and shooting for 14.7 AFR's.
i'm between 10.3-10.7 at wot. is this too rich? my boost holds at 25 lbs from 3.5k-5.5k.
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#9
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I've been going through the early stages of learning the art/science/voodoo of tuning on my Ralliart. It helped me a lot to put together a table of target AFRs... mostly because I could then chat to people who know way more than me about the subject, and distill their advice down to something measurable and specific.
As an example, here's a target mixture sheet for when I'm fooling around at the track (so on the rich side)...
Noob warning - these aren't EcuFlash fuel map numbers. Sorry, I just felt compelled to say that.
Ignore the actual numbers. I'm showing you my own learning process. With numbers in it, that's all.
So, for part-throttle mixtures... Assuming you're happy with your WOT mixtures, you "simply" have to settle on your target mixture at 10 psi, at each point up the rev range.
For my RA, 10psi is dead on 150-load. So the 140 and 160 load columns of my target table were the key to the whole exercise. I actually used the WGDC map to lock boost so that I tracked 160 load to redline. Once I got that column sorted, it was then a smooth join-the-dots exercise above and below 160 load.
The experts at this will probably look at a "target table" and laugh, because it's not something they need to think about or commit to a spreadsheet. As it's not second nature to me, I still need the noob props. Maybe explaining it like this will be helpful to you, or someone else.
Rich
As an example, here's a target mixture sheet for when I'm fooling around at the track (so on the rich side)...
Noob warning - these aren't EcuFlash fuel map numbers. Sorry, I just felt compelled to say that.
Ignore the actual numbers. I'm showing you my own learning process. With numbers in it, that's all.
So, for part-throttle mixtures... Assuming you're happy with your WOT mixtures, you "simply" have to settle on your target mixture at 10 psi, at each point up the rev range.
For my RA, 10psi is dead on 150-load. So the 140 and 160 load columns of my target table were the key to the whole exercise. I actually used the WGDC map to lock boost so that I tracked 160 load to redline. Once I got that column sorted, it was then a smooth join-the-dots exercise above and below 160 load.
The experts at this will probably look at a "target table" and laugh, because it's not something they need to think about or commit to a spreadsheet. As it's not second nature to me, I still need the noob props. Maybe explaining it like this will be helpful to you, or someone else.
Rich
#10
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Surprise surprise, the knock went away.
Is this something common across many new motors, or a 4B11 thing?
I don't recall seeing this in my IX, but maybe that was just coincidence...
#11
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https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ec...ses-knock.html
Just do a google search of "Rich Knock" and you will read all kinds of stuff, the most importan being that it can induce some knock and you are best keeping the car at high 10's to mid 11's with appropriate timing.
Even having your timing advance TOO LOW is a bad idea as well.
it can cause knock. It can also saturate the cylinder walls with gas and prevent proper oiling as well as fuel mixing with the oil.
One thing that wasn't mentioned is that rich knock looks different than lean knock. Lean knock tends to result in strong knock spikes where as rich knock tends to come on slowly over several hunderd RPM and stay at fairly low levels, usually a knock sum of 5 or less in my experience.
Even having your timing advance TOO LOW is a bad idea as well.
#12
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The experts at this will probably look at a "target table" and laugh, because it's not something they need to think about or commit to a spreadsheet. As it's not second nature to me, I still need the noob props. Maybe explaining it like this will be helpful to you, or someone else.
Rich
Rich
Actually it is a nice visual way of doing it, and yes setting 10 psi correctly which is around 140-160 load on most cars will allow you to interpolate the rest of the map for the most part for a smooth transition. There will always be some adjustments by the ECU based on current LTFT so you just want to have some room in your numbers plus and minus your target.
#13
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Heh, that LTFT WOT adjustment stuff is disabled in my ROM... inherited from Bryan's GST Base Map tune.
I've got an interesting example of something that exactly fits that description. It's topical, as it occurred at midrange loads 140-180... a full second of grumbling, low-level knock...
If this is what knock looks like when the engine would prefer a slightly leaner mixture, I'll head in that direction first.
This was throttling on in 4th at 2000rpm, up a hill... so I guess I'm now at the academic end of the tuning phase! I don't go WOT @ 2000rpm in 4th at any time apart from a test pull! So... am I testing a tune, or tuning a test?
Rich
One thing that wasn't mentioned is that rich knock looks different than lean knock. Lean knock tends to result in strong knock spikes where as rich knock tends to come on slowly over several hunderd RPM and stay at fairly low levels, usually a knock sum of 5 or less in my experience.
If this is what knock looks like when the engine would prefer a slightly leaner mixture, I'll head in that direction first.
This was throttling on in 4th at 2000rpm, up a hill... so I guess I'm now at the academic end of the tuning phase! I don't go WOT @ 2000rpm in 4th at any time apart from a test pull! So... am I testing a tune, or tuning a test?
Rich
Last edited by richardjh; Sep 11, 2011 at 07:27 AM. Reason: fixd speeling mistak
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