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Review: AGP I/C piping and cold air intake

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Old Aug 7, 2008, 07:10 PM
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Review: AGP I/C piping and cold air intake

So I just got my AGP piping and CAI installed today. Too bad my ECU didn't show up from Buschur yet, but Dynoflash had to do some custom calibration for my tune for the altitude. Once that comes in (hopefully tomorrow) I will be able to see what kind of differences it makes.

Review:
I went with these kits from AGP for several reasons. The intercooler piping kit is the cheapest on the market, selling for only $350 which includes both the upper and lower intercooler pipes. (compare that to 250 for just the upper). Both must be installed at the same time, as they relocate the BOV to the hotpipe. The upper I/C pipe is equivalent to any other kit, all the bends are the same, and it's standard 2.5". The Lower I/C pipe larger,, measuring at 3". Since i'm still using the stock intercooler, they supplied a 2.5" -> 3" adapter.

The Intake kit is the only kit on the market that relocates the filter in the wheel well. I decided to go with this route because the price was equivalent to non-CAI intakes ($280), and carrito.net claimed 10whp gain when they migrated their filter to the wheel well. I have had CAI intakes in the wheel well on previous cars, and never had a problem with water. My big gripe is the kit did not come with a splash guard for the intake (as many other CAI systems in wheel wells do), but I still have one at my parents house from my old car, so I will grab that next time I'm at their house. This kit is awesome because it's in two pieces, so if i end up having problems with water, I can remove one half of the piping and have a standard intake in the engine bay (although i'd have to use the stock MAF housing).

Installation had a couple issues, both pipes screw into the stock locations. However, I had to unbolt the lower I/C pipe bracket, with the bolt in I couldn't get my bumper back on. The larger diameter caused the bumper to rub against the pipe at one spot, meaning it wouldn't line back up properly. Once i unbolted the lower i/c pipe, i was able to push the bumper in, and line up all the screws. It looks like the bracket to hold the i/c on was slightly the wrong angle, causing it to sit too far out.

The intake relocates the filter in the wheel well. The only problem with install was with the lower i/c pipe in, the two pipes were rubbing. I fixed this by adding a couple washers to the intake brace. This gave the intake tube enough clearance to not rub against the lower i/c pipe. I'm guessing this was also due to the lower i/c pipe not fitting exactly the way it should. I did this all at the same time, since I wanted to avoid removing the bumper multiple times. However, you might be able to install the air filter without taking the bumper off, but it would be tough.

Fit and finish were very good. All welds are clean, and all parts showed up bubblewrapped so as to avoid scratching. However there were no installation instructions included in the packaging, and I could not find anything on their website. Although i didn't really need them, it only took a couple tries to figure out which tube attached where.

For the time being, i left the plastic cover on the air scoop on the driver's foglight, i need to find some mesh to replace it, so the intake can really breathe. Has anyone found a replacement? I hate having one "fake" air scoop.

Shipping was fast, $66 for two-day air for both parts. All together, cost was 696.37 with delivery.

In summary, it's a cheaper alternative to other competeter's products, and the issues with the lower i/c pipe bracket may be why.

I will post pics tomorrow.

Last edited by qubit; Aug 7, 2008 at 07:13 PM.
Old Aug 9, 2008, 09:00 AM
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I had to remove the intake's MAF housing, since the signal was modified too much to work with my tune. Here is a pic of the lower half of the intake removed.
Old Aug 12, 2008, 10:23 AM
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Great write up I was thinking of getting this same set up.
Old Aug 12, 2008, 12:49 PM
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Originally Posted by qubit
For the time being, i left the plastic cover on the air scoop on the driver's foglight, i need to find some mesh to replace it, so the intake can really breathe. Has anyone found a replacement? I hate having one "fake" air scoop. .
You can go to the dealer and order the MR version which will be just like one the passenger side. It's open due to the tranny cooler being there(MR). But they decieded to block it off with a whole thing of plastic on the GSR...

But yea good write up.
Old Aug 12, 2008, 12:50 PM
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Originally Posted by EvoXstylin
You can go to the dealer and order the MR version which will be just like one the passenger side. It's open due to the tranny cooler being there(MR). But they decieded to block it off with a whole thing of plastic on the GSR...

But yea good write up.
Sweet thx I've been looking for this.
Old Aug 12, 2008, 03:13 PM
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Ah yes eventuually I'll be looking at 4" brake ducts on each side so if the MR has a screen for the drivers side that would be awesome.
Old Aug 12, 2008, 03:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Hiboost
Ah yes eventuually I'll be looking at 4" brake ducts on each side so if the MR has a screen for the drivers side that would be awesome.
That's cool. I'm a little lost though, how are you going to do that on the passenger side? Just work around the oil cooler? I haven't taken off the bumper yet so I'm not sure what its like over there.
Old Nov 18, 2012, 11:46 AM
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Wow thats the same setup i want, can you hear the spool of the turbo with this setup, i already know the BOV is loud on this setup.
Old Nov 18, 2012, 11:50 AM
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I will get this in Feb, then get my COBB accessport in March.
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