antics22

iTrader: (1)

Which one would you guys go for in terms of cost, etc?

I am torn.

1) AMS Casted $450
2) T1R welded $300

cast your votes...

MR Dan

iTrader: (8)

I would of gotten the AMS if it came out before I purchased the ETS one. The T1R unit looks similar to the UR piece.

JayDub514

iTrader: (1)

Yo Ant --

AMS all the way man. Since it's out now and seeing the construction of it there is no doubt in my mind. There is a reason why the AMS piece took so long because it was actually engineered with thought behind it and not rushed out just to make a quick buck. And like I was telling you before -- there was a T1R down at the local socal tuning shop that was split in half. Sure they replaced it, but would you want to go through installing an 02/DP TWICE through no fault of your own? Also an unnamed employee at another shop currently has the T1R but is replacing it with the AMS. The rest of your car is so classy man don't go short on the DP you will regret it!

steinvb12

iTrader: (4)

Ummm....why? I think the ETS is better. I feel it will flow better than the AMS.

Both are good peices though. I wouldn't buy any others besides those two.

antics22

iTrader: (1)

all good points. Im not too concerned with the T1R failure/split since it sounds like a one-time incident... I totally understand your reasoning for the AMS.

Here is my dilemma (and cost is not one of them). I am re-configuring my car from scratch and got an uber JDM Blitz catback (thanks to lvbb6's write-up lol). I wanted to complete the front half of the exhaust system and as petty as it sounds, I wanted to keep the brands to as few as possible. I REALLY LIKE the T1R resonated Test pipe, and i REALLY LIKE the AMS 02/dp.

The thought of having:

AMS 02/DP > T1R resonated testpipe > Blitz Catback exhaust doesnt sound to me as good as:

T1R o2/dp > T1R resonated testpipe > Blitz catback.

I am sure AMS can probably make me a resonated testpipe, but I have heard and seen the T1R and Im sure thats the testpipe I want...

decisions decisions... I just dont want there to be any issues with fitment, different flange sizes, etc...

Clipse3GT

iTrader: (10)

I doubt that the gain you get from AMS one will justify it, if a $350 dollar produces similar gains. I just can't see $450 for a downpipe.

I would say get the T1R as a entire TBE exhaust if you like. I think for that cost the quality will be very good.

IIRC, UR had a O2 DP split as well.

Is there even dyno charts for the AMS DP? Secondly, I don't think customers owned them for long enough to even judge the durability of them.

antics22

iTrader: (1)

^ all good points Clipse3GT.

ETS is out of the equation for me. If their o2/dp was in the same price range as the T1R or the UR one, then it would be since that is what I am valuing their piece at. At their selling price of $450, thats CAST o2 territory and AMS would win my business on that hands down.

The UR is out of the equation already because I had that one, and some of the design shortcomings was a turn-off for me.. (eg: needing to modify the stock cat in order to mate it to their o2, location of their flex joint, etc).

That really only leaves the T1R, the AMS, the specialtyX, and the MPP one, or whoever that was.. Out of those, it comes down to the T1R or the AMS.......

Clipse3GT

iTrader: (10)

Yes, until I see hard proof for the AMS DP, I will not support it.

There is quiet a few people that have T1R TBE's and their cars make 330-350whp easily. That's some proof right there. There is dyno sheets to prove this.

I say save the $100 bucks on DP, save the money on TP, and get yourself some UICP or LICP, or whatever else.

I am sure that would give you more gains then the AMS DP alone...

DendroEVO

iTrader: (1)

I believe Ryan Gates has been running a pre-production AMS piece, and I'm sure AMS has a dyno sheet for it somewhere.

Wouldn't a welded O2 housing be prone to cracks over time? After reading all the posts on how much of a PITA it is to install an 02 Housing, I would NOT want to do it more then once.

antics22

iTrader: (1)

thanks for your input Clipse3GT! My good friend just got his X tuned at HBspeed, i have heard his full T1R and it sounds stock! Thats how I came to like their resonated test pipe so much. He also made 344hp on just that TBE alone with a drop-in filter.

My goal is to have a very mild sounding X with the power to boot. Your input is definitely helping me decide.

Ultimateone

iTrader: (10)

Great points Clipse, I have been researching DP's and it seems like the AMS one has been engineered the best per quality and strength but who knows how it will perform.

Clipse3GT

iTrader: (10)

I think only time will tell. I don't like the fact AMS uses such a long flex pipe, which will be more prone to leaks as time goes on. But who knows, everything is speculation at this point.

I am just saying that people are making good numbers with welded DP's and there have been only a few incidences where this has happened.

Generally, the weld is the strongest part of any construction if done properly. I'm proper installation of the exhaust might have put extra strain on the DP and caused it to crack. So everything goes on a case by case bases.

AutoMotoSports

iTrader: (42)

We have not done any back to back testing between a hand fabricated and our cast unit but there is no secret that a cast piece will last longer than a hand fabricated piece. Over time welds crack. Cast pieces stand the test of time and also allow you to get as creative as you want with design as angles and curves are not a problem.

As far as vollume and flow are concerned today I took a Campbell's soup can and dropped it through our widemouth downpipe and it flew right through the pipe like I was dropping it off a shelf. I could not even get the can half way into the OEM piece lol.

Our pipe also has two bungs in the pipe for the secondary OEM O2 sensor and a wideband should you want to add one down the road. In addition we have provisions for a soon to be released heat sheild down the road to not only protect but give it an OEM look for you CA residents. Cast will resonate less heat than a sheetmetal version but its still always a good idea on the EVO X to run that heat shield if possible

We could of made a fabricated version and we did in the following thread: https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...ison-pics.html but we saw greater performance from the cast piece so we took our time to make it better. The bend that must be made when making it hand fabricated can be completely smoothed out and avoided when dealing with cast. In that thread you can see me getting just about my whole arm into the AMS version and I could not of come close on our hand fabricated unit. In the end we chose to take our time and make the best possible piece we could using all of our resources. That is why it took so long but the end result in our eyes is just perfect!

Eric

AutoMotoSports

iTrader: (42)

Here is a dyno sheet back to back NO ADDITIONAL TUNING. on our Downpipe versus the stock unit. As you can see it picks up EVERYWHERE

spdracerut

iTrader: (2)

In getting the AMS piece, you're paying for the reliability of the cast piece. More than well worth the extra cost. Unless you like spending time swapping out parts. Personally, I'd get the AMS and ceramic coat it too.