Battery Dies overnight, HELP!
Apr 19, 2009, 09:45 AM
#17
Evolving Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Lag All Day, Boost All Night
Posts: 173
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Apr 22, 2009, 08:51 PM
#18
Evolving Member
One other thing I found out recently.
Before you disconnect the battery terminal put the ammeter probes on the cable end and battery terminal and hold them on there as you disconnect the cable end from the battery.
this way the system is never disconnected so whatever has to initialize has already done so.
Before you disconnect the battery terminal put the ammeter probes on the cable end and battery terminal and hold them on there as you disconnect the cable end from the battery.
this way the system is never disconnected so whatever has to initialize has already done so.
Apr 22, 2009, 09:14 PM
#19
Newbie
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: nnj north bergen
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
your still gonna have a draw
look car now a day have a lot of electronic component which draw amp
by doing parasitic draw test you should have a spec of how much is allowable draw you can have,give example 09 maxima has 1.10 amp draw which is normal
some car may take .40-.90 it all depends,i actually test my battery and it come out bad gud luck
by doing parasitic draw test you should have a spec of how much is allowable draw you can have,give example 09 maxima has 1.10 amp draw which is normal
some car may take .40-.90 it all depends,i actually test my battery and it come out bad gud luck
Apr 22, 2009, 09:28 PM
#20
Newbie
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Long Beach
Posts: 22
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I had this exact same problem. It would take almost exactly 24 hrs for the battery to die completely. It turned out to be my radar detector that was hard wired into the dome light. If I didn't manually turn off the power to the detector, when I parked the car, and the dome light wiring would loose power, it would sense a low battery condition, and start flashing "low batt". Being that I was no longer around the vehicle, it would flash until it drained the battery. I don't know why it can still draw power after the dome lights go off, but it would. It took a long time to find the problem. Not to mention a few trips to the dealer.
Apr 28, 2009, 05:40 AM
#21
Newbie
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Simi Valley, CA
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I had this exact same problem. It would take almost exactly 24 hrs for the battery to die completely. It turned out to be my radar detector that was hard wired into the dome light. If I didn't manually turn off the power to the detector, when I parked the car, and the dome light wiring would loose power, it would sense a low battery condition, and start flashing "low batt". Being that I was no longer around the vehicle, it would flash until it drained the battery. I don't know why it can still draw power after the dome lights go off, but it would. It took a long time to find the problem. Not to mention a few trips to the dealer.
Definitely move to an ignition controlled circuit, if you are not manually switching off your radar detector
Apr 28, 2009, 08:25 PM
#22
Newbie
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: toronto, ontario
Posts: 14
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The systems that fuse #8 controls are:
(This is from All Data btw)
A/c System
Brake warning light, Fuel warning light, and oil pressure warning light
Central door locking system
DRL's
Dome light, luggage compartment light, and ignition key hole warning light
fog light
headlight
ignition key reminder tone alarm
<Vehicles with KOS (Keyless operating system)>
immobilizer system
Keyless operating system (KOS)
Meter and gauge
Power windows
Seatbelt warning tone alarm
Taillight position light, license plate light, and lighting monitor tone alarm
Theft alarm system
Tire Pressure monitoring system (TPMS)
trunk lid opener
Turn signal light and hazard warning light
Windshield wiper and washer
(Big list, eh?)
(This is from All Data btw)
A/c System
Brake warning light, Fuel warning light, and oil pressure warning light
Central door locking system
DRL's
Dome light, luggage compartment light, and ignition key hole warning light
fog light
headlight
ignition key reminder tone alarm
<Vehicles with KOS (Keyless operating system)>
immobilizer system
Keyless operating system (KOS)
Meter and gauge
Power windows
Seatbelt warning tone alarm
Taillight position light, license plate light, and lighting monitor tone alarm
Theft alarm system
Tire Pressure monitoring system (TPMS)
trunk lid opener
Turn signal light and hazard warning light
Windshield wiper and washer
(Big list, eh?)
Apr 29, 2009, 11:34 AM
#23
Evolving Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: NOVA
Posts: 215
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
For the past week or so, when i go out to my car in the morning, the battery is either discharged to the point where the starter will crank slowly, or where the battery barely has enough juice to engage the solenoid. I did a load test on the battery, and it seemed a tiny bit low, but not to the point where it should be a problem, i then thought it might be a parasitic draw, so i left the neg. cable unconnected overnight, and the battery was fine the next morning (12.48v at night, 12.38v in the morning) So i did a parasitic drain test and the car draws about .8 amps with the car off, and locked. i then started pulling fuses to see what was staying on, i found it to be fuse #8 under the dash, which controls a whole mess of things. after i found this out, i figured that the dealer may know something that i don't, so i brought it to them, told them that i was an automotive student, and that it had a parasitic draw. They didnt' listen, charged the battery and told me to try that. I'm down in Bumble **** carbondale IL for 2 more weeks, until i can take it to a dealer that actually know's what they're doing. But has anyone had a similar problem? I searched, but didn't find anything. Any help would be appreciated 
Zack
Zack
This is a known problem with the batteries. I was at the mitsu dealer buying my EVO X they had a new GSR in the shop because the battery kept dying. They said they had to order a new battery and that some of the EVO X batteries are defective, and because of that they were on back order.
Apr 29, 2009, 03:36 PM
#24
Evolved Member
iTrader: (9)
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Miami
Posts: 690
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I would remove the radar detector first off, and you said you wait 15 min, and the draw is still at .8, and then you disconnect the #8 fuse, and the draw drops to .4. Try letting the car sit for a full 30 to 45 min, and then see where the draw is. Try doing this with the radar detector manually turned off as opposed to removing the entire unit. When I worked for BMW we would let the 7 series sit for 30 minutes sometimes before it would drop down to spec. I know the 7 is a lot more sophisticated than an EVO, but you never know. Good luck, and keep us posted.
Apr 29, 2009, 07:35 PM
#25
Evolving Member
It's a Optima style dry cell with a vent because it's inside the pass compartment. It has to be trickle charged under 5 amps, more than 5 amps it goes bad.
You can replace with a Optima of the right model, don't have to wait for the original battery.
Jan 12, 2010, 09:05 AM
#27
Newbie
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: San diego
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Jan 12, 2010, 12:31 PM
#28
Evolving Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Lag All Day, Boost All Night
Posts: 173
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I found the problem with my car was how I had my radar detector hardwired in. I had it wired into the dome light (had it wiredthe same way on my previous car) but for some reason the X does not like the detector being there... It would constantly give the detector adaptor (goes from standard wires to a phone wore) power, which would drain the battery over night. I did a simple fix by putting a switch online with the ground wire, so when I turn the radar off now I just hit that switch, radar turns off and the battery doesn't get drained.
Jan 12, 2010, 05:45 PM
#29
Newbie
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: bay area, CA
Posts: 73
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I found the problem with my car was how I had my radar detector hardwired in. I had it wired into the dome light (had it wiredthe same way on my previous car) but for some reason the X does not like the detector being there... It would constantly give the detector adaptor (goes from standard wires to a phone wore) power, which would drain the battery over night. I did a simple fix by putting a switch online with the ground wire, so when I turn the radar off now I just hit that switch, radar turns off and the battery doesn't get drained.
Jan 13, 2010, 12:10 PM
#30
Evolving Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Lag All Day, Boost All Night
Posts: 173
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I don't want to have to run wires down the A pillar to the cig. lighter. i'm going to see if i can modify the switch that controls if the dome light comes on when the door is open, and make it the switch that powers the radar detector.