27 PSI okay? With No tune
Apr 26, 2009, 08:00 PM
#31
I was custom tuned at Cobb and am running 26.8psi on Cobb's dyno (boost pill removed).
I have the AEM intake and it ABSOLUTELY does NOT act as a boost controller. You can see the stock boost chart on what I posted.
My big issue is that I was leaning out heavily because the IDC was around 114%. OP, If you don't have a wideband you need to be careful because (as you can see from my dyno), the AEM intake leans the car out a ton and you aren't hitting 10.0 afrs like most people with a stock map.
When I get some $$ I'm dropping an FMIC on and new injectors in and going to get it retuned to clean it up.
I have the AEM intake and it ABSOLUTELY does NOT act as a boost controller. You can see the stock boost chart on what I posted.
My big issue is that I was leaning out heavily because the IDC was around 114%. OP, If you don't have a wideband you need to be careful because (as you can see from my dyno), the AEM intake leans the car out a ton and you aren't hitting 10.0 afrs like most people with a stock map.
When I get some $$ I'm dropping an FMIC on and new injectors in and going to get it retuned to clean it up.
Apr 26, 2009, 08:11 PM
#32
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Well dude. My gauge does read vacuum at IDLE, you assume to much. It reads -20 on the vacuum side at idle. And plus I never said it was holding 27 psi at redline. It is a defi boost gauge it isn't some 50 dollar auto meter gauge. And obvisely the ecu is not cuting it because it is reading 27 psi on the gauge. Prior to changing the UIP it only would peak at around 24 - 25 psi plus I had a tuner here locally take a look at everything and he couldn't see anything wrong with anything.
So will an ap with an off the shelf map fix this for me, since everyone seems to think my gauge is broke even when it appears to be working fine to me?
So will an ap with an off the shelf map fix this for me, since everyone seems to think my gauge is broke even when it appears to be working fine to me?
Apr 27, 2009, 03:47 AM
#33
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Because the ecu boost control is based on calculated load. Some combination of parts in your setup is likely reducing the calculated load and the ecu is raising the boost to hit it's desired target load. That or the combination of parts has freed up some efficiency resulting in boost overshoot before the ecu has time to correct and pull it back down.
At this point, you need to either get it tuned or install a boost controller and turn down the boost to stock level.
Last edited by Mad_SB; Apr 27, 2009 at 03:50 AM.
Apr 27, 2009, 05:37 PM
#35
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I was custom tuned at Cobb and am running 26.8psi on Cobb's dyno (boost pill removed).
I have the AEM intake and it ABSOLUTELY does NOT act as a boost controller. You can see the stock boost chart on what I posted.
My big issue is that I was leaning out heavily because the IDC was around 114%. OP, If you don't have a wideband you need to be careful because (as you can see from my dyno), the AEM intake leans the car out a ton and you aren't hitting 10.0 afrs like most people with a stock map.
When I get some $$ I'm dropping an FMIC on and new injectors in and going to get it retuned to clean it up.
I have the AEM intake and it ABSOLUTELY does NOT act as a boost controller. You can see the stock boost chart on what I posted.
My big issue is that I was leaning out heavily because the IDC was around 114%. OP, If you don't have a wideband you need to be careful because (as you can see from my dyno), the AEM intake leans the car out a ton and you aren't hitting 10.0 afrs like most people with a stock map.
When I get some $$ I'm dropping an FMIC on and new injectors in and going to get it retuned to clean it up.
Apr 27, 2009, 07:36 PM
#37
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You're not understanding. Your car would 100% throw a P1235 limp mode on the stock flash at partial throttle if you were able to achieve a true 27psi spike at WOT. Its the way the car is programmed, and its not disputable on the stock flash parameters. You said you are not getting any codes, nor is the ECU limiting power (when the car sees high boost, the ECU will limit you to 12psi). You aren't seeing this either. Both these things prove totally that your gauge is broken.
...I accidentally boosted too high a few times with an MBC (not used anymore) and hit 27+. Never threw a code, never hit limp mode. And no, I'm not using a junker gauge..
If you really want to know what boost you're getting, go to a shop with an AWD dyno and have them log boost on the rollers.
Why? Log what? The map sensor? Another boost gauge would answer this question for a lot less than the cost of dyno time.
To answer your question, no the car would NOT be safe with any tune at 27psi on pump gas. Nor on the stock tune, never safe at that much boost. An AP wouldn't "fix it", becasue it is programmed to run higher boost than stock, and it also is not meant to see 27psi.
ANY tune? Correct, if you mean ONLY tuning. Throw some injectors at it, and there ya go. The only reason for 27 being too high, is a lean AFR. Even better, add alky injection, and it's protected even more. Either way a WB is a good idea.
...I accidentally boosted too high a few times with an MBC (not used anymore) and hit 27+. Never threw a code, never hit limp mode. And no, I'm not using a junker gauge..
If you really want to know what boost you're getting, go to a shop with an AWD dyno and have them log boost on the rollers.
Why? Log what? The map sensor? Another boost gauge would answer this question for a lot less than the cost of dyno time.
To answer your question, no the car would NOT be safe with any tune at 27psi on pump gas. Nor on the stock tune, never safe at that much boost. An AP wouldn't "fix it", becasue it is programmed to run higher boost than stock, and it also is not meant to see 27psi.
ANY tune? Correct, if you mean ONLY tuning. Throw some injectors at it, and there ya go. The only reason for 27 being too high, is a lean AFR. Even better, add alky injection, and it's protected even more. Either way a WB is a good idea.
Apr 27, 2009, 07:44 PM
#38
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I decided to get a cobb ap tonight, to Firstly log the car and see what is really happening. I am also going to get an innovate wideband to see what my afr's look like and also I am going to run the AEM map from the cobb and see if any knock is present then and then have another tuner verify the log file to see if everything is okay. I am pretty sure at this point that my car is fine not in the danger area at all. A wideband will help confirm this along with the log file from the cobb ap. Thanks to all for helping me work this out.
May 8, 2009, 04:27 PM
#39
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After sending my logs to Cobb for review, they say my car is fine after the stage 1+AEM map and that also my defi boost gauge is dead on. When it reads 27, it is doing 27. So point in case is the way I was driving the car was causing the 27 psi of boost, I was lugging the motor below 2000 rpm and then going to WOT and that was causing the high boost spike. So case in point, this is my first turbo car, and I just have to adjust my driving style.....no problem. Oh and I am hitting 25 psi and tappering to 19 at redline. The car and myself are both happy.
Jul 1, 2009, 09:37 AM
#40
the evo running high boost like that without being modified is not good. the car can manage to run high boost, because the car is built for it. although factory settings are not that high. i would think a tuner shop could tell you why, but since your tuner shop said he didnt know says alot about them. what you can do is take it to the dealership and have them look at it. i would recommend trying to lower the boost by a manual boost controller and a tune, or hopefully the dealer can tell you why it is running that high, and they can advice you the proper steps in getting it back to normal. i wouldnt expect the motor to go to long without having some sort of problems, becuase the car is at a factory setting. pushing high boost requires other modifications if you want no problems and everything done correctly. i hope this helps.
Jul 3, 2009, 08:57 AM
#41
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the evo running high boost like that without being modified is not good. the car can manage to run high boost, because the car is built for it. although factory settings are not that high. i would think a tuner shop could tell you why, but since your tuner shop said he didnt know says alot about them. what you can do is take it to the dealership and have them look at it. i would recommend trying to lower the boost by a manual boost controller and a tune, or hopefully the dealer can tell you why it is running that high, and they can advice you the proper steps in getting it back to normal. i wouldnt expect the motor to go to long without having some sort of problems, becuase the car is at a factory setting. pushing high boost requires other modifications if you want no problems and everything done correctly. i hope this helps.
Jul 5, 2009, 09:54 AM
#42
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hey buddy .!! i have the aem intake and have the same problem lol..!!! not good !!! im reading 28.5 only when im at 3 or 4000rpms and pining the gas.....
but if i do a pull my boost tappers normally 24.5 down
but if i do a pull my boost tappers normally 24.5 down
Jul 6, 2009, 07:41 AM
#43
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I am guessing it has to be the way the vacuum lines are ran into the intake. I have actually changed them out, plugged one off and set it up like the stock configuration and my boost lowered by 1 psi. But I changed it back cuz the car run weird. I just make sure I don't "pin/feather" the gas between 3 to 4k rpms and all is well.
Jul 6, 2009, 08:11 AM
#44
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Because of your AEM intake. Stock ecu boost control is not pressure based, but rather load based. Anything that alters your maf reading will alter the calculated load and therefore boost control. Also IIRC the AEM may do some "tricks" with the boost line assembly.
Jul 6, 2009, 02:55 PM
#45
If you zero the right side first row of the TBEC table all this spike non-sense would go away at tip-in at low rpm in high gear. I tuned an Evo X with an AEM intake and a TBE and had a spike to 28.xx psi in 4th gear WOT runs from 2500 rpm to redline. After I zeroed the top right hand row of the TBEC table the boost spike was goen and the boost was at 25 psi.
Problem solved.
Problem solved.