jshepherd

The trans has been here approx 2 weeks. With the diagnosis and the rem treating this is right on schedule. It will be done today or tomorrow.

The rem isf is outsourced to a local company. We do not use some Mickey Mouse polishing technique that just "looks" like rem. This is a high end rem place that has the correct media to properly do gears and sliders. This normally adds a week to any build

tsitalon1

iTrader: (3)

Thanks for the update John, I appreciate it!

tsitalon1

iTrader: (3)

Tranny recieved back...will have pics soon. I will most likely not have th car back together until Monday or so...

tsitalon1

iTrader: (3)

Sorry guys, I have tried to get this trany into position, but I can't seem to get it over the crossmember.

I have an engine lift attached to the lift point of the tranny and can't seem to clear all obstacles to get in into position. Of course laying on my back under the car and a jack holding the motor up (in my way) is not helping...

Any tips guys?

Darwinism

iTrader: (1)

It's really difficult to get the transmission back into position without lowering the subframe, you can see the bottom of the subframe extended below the car, we took allthread rods that are the same thread pitch as the subframe bolts, and threaded them in, and the subframe slides down on these rods without moving everywhere. The engine brace is securing the engine from above also. If you look closely you can see the four rods hanging down, and the subframe actually extends below the car. Hope this Helps.

2003lancerevo8

The Shep Trans Rebuild is awesome! I had shep do a trans and t/c rebuild and that was the nicest trans i have shifted in awhile!!

I would also recommend to do a stainless steel clutch line and shifter bushings, both underhood and under shifter.

I drove on the trans for a long time with zero issues and it handled 500 whp perfectly

dkstas

iTrader: (3)

I had the same problem. The part of the tranny that the transfercase mounts to has to go up first, kind of like the the trans is on its side. Once that part clears the subframe use another jack to "level" out the trans and it should slide right in. Hopes this makes sense.

tsitalon1

iTrader: (3)

Well Guys,

I have been reserving judgment until I had a chance to put some miles on the tranny and new clutch. Car has now been driven 350 miles with the new setup

First let me say right off the bat that these steps did NOT resolve the notchiness. I am disappointed to say the least.

I spoke with John about the tranny at length and basically he stated that the tranny was in immaculate condition when he received it, and not much else beside the REM process could really be done. My main concern was if the clutch was really dragging that there would be accelerated/abnormal wear on the syncro's. This was not the case, John found nothing "wrong" with the syncro's sliders or gear facings. I was told that the REM process was accomplished on the sliders and gears, and I can tell you that it does overall shift smoother, however the 2nd-3rd shift still produces a good amount of notchiness. I suspect that a tranny shop cannot fully overcome engineering issues.

For those concerned with fluids, I did switch from Amsoil to Redline Mt-90 on John's suggestion and it seems to shift better overall, but that could be the REM or fluids or both working. Cold fluid still produces much more notchiness. I am contemplating draining a quart of the MT-90 and putting in one quart of the MTL in to "thin" it out a bit.


I was also told that the center diff was substantially strengthened, so I believe my efforts were not in vain, as I *should* be immune now from the infamous diff retaining pin failures.

For those following the clutch portion of this, I am somewhat disappointed in my Southbend clutch at the moment. I am reserving full judgment until I reach the break-in point since I only have 350 of the required 750 miles. I will not go into detail on this yet. I am working through email with SouthBend trying to figure out our course of action.

The clutch operates fine, and I can drive the car normally. My issues are more related to pedal engagement height, pressure and transition. I do not have any weird clutch noises and it is not slipping though I have not really pushed it since I am still in the break-in period. I also do NOT believe the new clutch is playing a role in the notchiness, I have verified that the clutch is not dragging at all.

Can anyone answer this question for me:

In the old push style clutches, as clutch disc wore down, the engagement point of the pedal would move up to the top.

Am I right in assuming that on pull style clutches the opposite is true?

Since the PP is concave before installation and the springs of the pressure plate move outward as you bolt the clutch to the flywheel, I would assume that the engagement point moves closer to the floor as the clutch wears on a pull style clutch.

My engagement point of my southbend starts at half pedal but finally grabs about 1 inch from the very top, as bad as, or worse than stock. This makes it difficult to feather it, as your working against the PP pressure and the pedal assistance spring which is not linear toward the top of the throw.

stokEd

iTrader: (3)

Have you removed the restrictor from the clutch slave cylinder?

tsitalon1

iTrader: (3)

Yes sir!

tsitalon1

iTrader: (3)

Southbend clutch has been great about working with me so far, not defensive at all really.

I have agreed to put 1000-1200 miles on this clutch and if it still feels the same I will work with them for a replacement unit. Pulling the tranny down again would suck, but at least this seems to be a company that is willing to work with you and help, unlike some other big name clutch companies.

Methodical4u

iTrader: (9)

you'll be a tranny removing expert at least!

sna08

iTrader: (3)

this been resolved?