Fuel System Upgrades
Dec 10, 2009, 09:12 PM
#1
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Fuel System Upgrades
What are everyone's opinions on available upgraded fuel systems on the market?
I want to upgrade soon and I am looking at AMS, Buschur and Blaqops.
Can you guys point out the major differences, so there can be some discussion.
Do all the kits replace the factory fuel hoses for E-85 safe use? So Buschur runs two intank, while the others run secondary inline? AMS and Blaqops run with stock fuel pump, which can additionally be replaced?
What would be the difference in the blaqops MAF and Boost controlled versions?
Thanks guys
I want to upgrade soon and I am looking at AMS, Buschur and Blaqops.
Can you guys point out the major differences, so there can be some discussion.
Do all the kits replace the factory fuel hoses for E-85 safe use? So Buschur runs two intank, while the others run secondary inline? AMS and Blaqops run with stock fuel pump, which can additionally be replaced?
What would be the difference in the blaqops MAF and Boost controlled versions?
Thanks guys
Last edited by chriswolf81; Dec 10, 2009 at 09:15 PM.
Dec 10, 2009, 09:26 PM
#2
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BlaqOps FTMFW!
Have seen this kit personally (double pump soilder series), and in action on the dyno (@GST Motorsports)! Should meet 95% of the majority Street/Track users. Very nice, E85 safe, and a great price for what you get. Bout to break down and pick up this kit myself! Ask anyone who runs it, they will tell you that it was probably one of the best investments for there car.
Just my 2cents.
Have seen this kit personally (double pump soilder series), and in action on the dyno (@GST Motorsports)! Should meet 95% of the majority Street/Track users. Very nice, E85 safe, and a great price for what you get. Bout to break down and pick up this kit myself! Ask anyone who runs it, they will tell you that it was probably one of the best investments for there car.
Just my 2cents.
Last edited by HR2L; Dec 10, 2009 at 09:35 PM.
Dec 10, 2009, 10:48 PM
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The AMS is the only one to add a pump in-line. Both Blaqops and Buschur run 2 Walbros in the tank. The advantage of the AMS is that you don't have to touch the in-tank stock set-up unless you're worried about the e85 compatibility of the stock corrugated black fuel line that connects the stock pump to the outlet and the return line. I've heard different opinions on compatibility.
Most people are using boost to trigger the Blaqops but they do offer controllers for both mechanical boost as well as a MAF signal. Buschur uses a Hobbs switch triggered by boost. The difference is the Hobbs is full on or off. The Blaqops varies the voltage to the pump according to the boost level (progressive).
Both Blaqops and Buschur will require an in-line filter somewhere (Blaqops supplies a OEM replacement supply line in the engine compartment with a filter as part of the kit) since they do away with the in tank OEM filter.
Most people are using boost to trigger the Blaqops but they do offer controllers for both mechanical boost as well as a MAF signal. Buschur uses a Hobbs switch triggered by boost. The difference is the Hobbs is full on or off. The Blaqops varies the voltage to the pump according to the boost level (progressive).
Both Blaqops and Buschur will require an in-line filter somewhere (Blaqops supplies a OEM replacement supply line in the engine compartment with a filter as part of the kit) since they do away with the in tank OEM filter.
Dec 11, 2009, 07:56 AM
#4
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very good info. So I take it the bucshur has both walbros included, where blaqops has only the secondary pump included? Why is the blaqops pump 270lph, is it not 255 walbro?
Dec 11, 2009, 09:42 AM
#5
Forums logged me out when I typed BOTH replies.. so here goes quickly:
Blaqops FTMFW - I have the single pump kit for my E85 setup.. LOVE it. Awesome owner, awesome kit, awesome instructions.. all around badassery is found in that kit.
270Lph outflows 255lph = more fuel! Should still be a walbro.
In-line pumps will require wiring to be done to power the pump - in-takes use the stock wiring harness for the most part.. double-pumpers may require more for the MAF/Boost taps obviously.
Blaqops also requires YOUR stock fuel housing for the dual-pumps so modifications can be made, this is NOT needed for the single pump solution (That's what "CORE REQUIRED" means.)
DONE! Wonder if I got logged out..
Blaqops FTMFW - I have the single pump kit for my E85 setup.. LOVE it. Awesome owner, awesome kit, awesome instructions.. all around badassery is found in that kit.
270Lph outflows 255lph = more fuel! Should still be a walbro.
In-line pumps will require wiring to be done to power the pump - in-takes use the stock wiring harness for the most part.. double-pumpers may require more for the MAF/Boost taps obviously.
Blaqops also requires YOUR stock fuel housing for the dual-pumps so modifications can be made, this is NOT needed for the single pump solution (That's what "CORE REQUIRED" means.)
DONE! Wonder if I got logged out..
Dec 11, 2009, 01:29 PM
#6
Just finished installing the Blaqops single pump kit. Good product, I recommend it.
The Evo X pump assembly is more complicated and more of a pain in the butt to take out than the Evo 8 was.
Hello Whinebro!
Yessir, not very loud but you can hear the Walbro whine back there. Maybe if it becomes annoying I will get some sound deadening foam to tape over the metal access plate.
The Evo X pump assembly is more complicated and more of a pain in the butt to take out than the Evo 8 was.
Hello Whinebro!
Yessir, not very loud but you can hear the Walbro whine back there. Maybe if it becomes annoying I will get some sound deadening foam to tape over the metal access plate.
Last edited by lowkey; Dec 11, 2009 at 01:34 PM.
Jan 7, 2010, 08:07 PM
#7
Just finished installing the Blaqops single pump kit. Good product, I recommend it.
The Evo X pump assembly is more complicated and more of a pain in the butt to take out than the Evo 8 was.
Hello Whinebro!
Yessir, not very loud but you can hear the Walbro whine back there. Maybe if it becomes annoying I will get some sound deadening foam to tape over the metal access plate.
The Evo X pump assembly is more complicated and more of a pain in the butt to take out than the Evo 8 was.
Hello Whinebro!
Yessir, not very loud but you can hear the Walbro whine back there. Maybe if it becomes annoying I will get some sound deadening foam to tape over the metal access plate.
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Jan 8, 2010, 08:45 AM
#9
Little late on the reply but... do you have the rear seats still removed? I noticed when they are in.. I don't hear it at all (then again I'm running the Buschur bullet catback and a testpipe, so I can barely hear my passenger..), but when it's off, I can hear it whine into life when I get on the throttle.
Jan 8, 2010, 08:57 AM
#10
It's not difficult. Take the rear seat out, undo the nuts and pull it out.
A couple of common sense items:
You are going to be exposing gasoline which is combustable, keep open flames far away.
Don't do it on a full tank of gas.
Unplug the electrical connection on top of the pump and start you car until it runs out of gas and the engine quits.
Keep lots of paper towels or rags handy because you WILL be spilling some gas out of the lines (the stink hangs around for days...)
When you pull the pump housing out of the tank, it's going to have gasoline in it, so while still over the tank, tilt it over to drain some of that.
Be carefull not to bend or damage the fuel level float and arm.
Jan 8, 2010, 10:04 AM
#11
blaqops.com
It's not difficult. Take the rear seat out, undo the nuts and pull it out.
A couple of common sense items:
You are going to be exposing gasoline which is combustable, keep open flames far away.
Don't do it on a full tank of gas.
Unplug the electrical connection on top of the pump and start you car until it runs out of gas and the engine quits.
Keep lots of paper towels or rags handy because you WILL be spilling some gas out of the lines (the stink hangs around for days...)
When you pull the pump housing out of the tank, it's going to have gasoline in it, so while still over the tank, tilt it over to drain some of that.
Be carefull not to bend or damage the fuel level float and arm.
It's not difficult. Take the rear seat out, undo the nuts and pull it out.
A couple of common sense items:
You are going to be exposing gasoline which is combustable, keep open flames far away.
Don't do it on a full tank of gas.
Unplug the electrical connection on top of the pump and start you car until it runs out of gas and the engine quits.
Keep lots of paper towels or rags handy because you WILL be spilling some gas out of the lines (the stink hangs around for days...)
When you pull the pump housing out of the tank, it's going to have gasoline in it, so while still over the tank, tilt it over to drain some of that.
Be carefull not to bend or damage the fuel level float and arm.
Jan 9, 2010, 03:37 PM
#13
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...iscussion.html
Jan 13, 2010, 08:10 PM
#14
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My Walbro Experience
I did the foam sock procedure that was written by meat_evo. It went really well and the pump is very secure with stainless steel hose clamps. Also, there's no noise coming from the pump, I guess that foam helps out with noisy Walbros
You'll need a 8mm socket on a 1/4" ratchet to fit in the tight spot.
If you are using a 4in1 screwdriver, take out the bit, your 5/16" driver will fit on those 8mm nuts.
My low fuel warning light was on and I let the car sit for 12 hours. When I opened the fuel lines nothing squirted out, just a drizzle when I moved the fuel line off to the side of the pump.
I didn't disconnect the battery and I'm still alive
I did this by myself in my apartment bathtub. My car is 2 blocks away. The hardware store is 5 blocks away. I made 3 trips to the car and 2 trips to the hardware store and I was done in 3 hours.
I'm not OK with using zip ties, so I opted for stainless hose clamps. I used the housing clip for support and it looked good and held tight. I'm including some pictures so you can see what I did.
I couldn't have done this without the "How-To". Thanks to meat_evo!
I installed the Walbro GSS317 pump. Many of you have chosen the GSS342, but my tuner [WORKS Motorsports] recomended the low pressure pump for applications under 500hp. They said the 342 can overpressure the fuel pressure regulator at idle and partial throttle causing SMOG problems and a confused ECU.
I bought the pump from WORKSEVO .com [came with the exact fuel filter that the "How-To" mentioned, and got all the bits from apeusa.com. If you are going to buy from WORKS, then don't bother buying a filter from apeusa.com, it's the same exact filter. Now I have two.
I also went to the hardware store and purchased three stainless steel hose clamps
1: 1-5/16" to 2-1/4"
2: 5/16" to 7/8"
Total: $4.25
I made another trip to get some Dap Blue Stik Reusable Adhesive Putty because some of the black gum was destroyed when taking off the cover.
Adhesive Putty: $3.28
Here's another tip. After you take the housing out, crack the windows and put the cover back on or put some box tape or duct tape over the opening so that the gas fumes don't infect your interior. I used masking tape because it's all I had laying around and left the car for 2 hours while I was working on the housing and the interior doesn't smell like gas.
Car is running good and about to be screaming with some Cosworth cams.
You'll need a 8mm socket on a 1/4" ratchet to fit in the tight spot.
If you are using a 4in1 screwdriver, take out the bit, your 5/16" driver will fit on those 8mm nuts.
My low fuel warning light was on and I let the car sit for 12 hours. When I opened the fuel lines nothing squirted out, just a drizzle when I moved the fuel line off to the side of the pump.
I didn't disconnect the battery and I'm still alive
I did this by myself in my apartment bathtub. My car is 2 blocks away. The hardware store is 5 blocks away. I made 3 trips to the car and 2 trips to the hardware store and I was done in 3 hours.
I'm not OK with using zip ties, so I opted for stainless hose clamps. I used the housing clip for support and it looked good and held tight. I'm including some pictures so you can see what I did.
I couldn't have done this without the "How-To". Thanks to meat_evo!
I installed the Walbro GSS317 pump. Many of you have chosen the GSS342, but my tuner [WORKS Motorsports] recomended the low pressure pump for applications under 500hp. They said the 342 can overpressure the fuel pressure regulator at idle and partial throttle causing SMOG problems and a confused ECU.
I bought the pump from WORKSEVO .com [came with the exact fuel filter that the "How-To" mentioned, and got all the bits from apeusa.com. If you are going to buy from WORKS, then don't bother buying a filter from apeusa.com, it's the same exact filter. Now I have two.
I also went to the hardware store and purchased three stainless steel hose clamps
1: 1-5/16" to 2-1/4"
2: 5/16" to 7/8"
Total: $4.25
I made another trip to get some Dap Blue Stik Reusable Adhesive Putty because some of the black gum was destroyed when taking off the cover.
Adhesive Putty: $3.28
Here's another tip. After you take the housing out, crack the windows and put the cover back on or put some box tape or duct tape over the opening so that the gas fumes don't infect your interior. I used masking tape because it's all I had laying around and left the car for 2 hours while I was working on the housing and the interior doesn't smell like gas.
Car is running good and about to be screaming with some Cosworth cams.
Jan 13, 2010, 09:48 PM
#15
I did the foam sock procedure that was written by meat_evo. It went really well and the pump is very secure with stainless steel hose clamps. Also, there's no noise coming from the pump, I guess that foam helps out with noisy Walbros
You'll need a 8mm socket on a 1/4" ratchet to fit in the tight spot.
If you are using a 4in1 screwdriver, take out the bit, your 5/16" driver will fit on those 8mm nuts.
My low fuel warning light was on and I let the car sit for 12 hours. When I opened the fuel lines nothing squirted out, just a drizzle when I moved the fuel line off to the side of the pump.
I didn't disconnect the battery and I'm still alive
I did this by myself in my apartment bathtub. My car is 2 blocks away. The hardware store is 5 blocks away. I made 3 trips to the car and 2 trips to the hardware store and I was done in 3 hours.
I'm not OK with using zip ties, so I opted for stainless hose clamps. I used the housing clip for support and it looked good and held tight. I'm including some pictures so you can see what I did.
I couldn't have done this without the "How-To". Thanks to meat_evo!
I installed the Walbro GSS317 pump. Many of you have chosen the GSS342, but my tuner [WORKS Motorsports] recomended the low pressure pump for applications under 500hp. They said the 342 can overpressure the fuel pressure regulator at idle and partial throttle causing SMOG problems and a confused ECU.
I bought the pump from WORKSEVO .com [came with the exact fuel filter that the "How-To" mentioned, and got all the bits from apeusa.com. If you are going to buy from WORKS, then don't bother buying a filter from apeusa.com, it's the same exact filter. Now I have two.
I also went to the hardware store and purchased three stainless steel hose clamps
1: 1-5/16" to 2-1/4"
2: 5/16" to 7/8"
Total: $4.25
I made another trip to get some Dap Blue Stik Reusable Adhesive Putty because some of the black gum was destroyed when taking off the cover.
Adhesive Putty: $3.28
Here's another tip. After you take the housing out, crack the windows and put the cover back on or put some box tape or duct tape over the opening so that the gas fumes don't infect your interior. I used masking tape because it's all I had laying around and left the car for 2 hours while I was working on the housing and the interior doesn't smell like gas.
Car is running good and about to be screaming with some Cosworth cams.
You'll need a 8mm socket on a 1/4" ratchet to fit in the tight spot.
If you are using a 4in1 screwdriver, take out the bit, your 5/16" driver will fit on those 8mm nuts.
My low fuel warning light was on and I let the car sit for 12 hours. When I opened the fuel lines nothing squirted out, just a drizzle when I moved the fuel line off to the side of the pump.
I didn't disconnect the battery and I'm still alive
I did this by myself in my apartment bathtub. My car is 2 blocks away. The hardware store is 5 blocks away. I made 3 trips to the car and 2 trips to the hardware store and I was done in 3 hours.
I'm not OK with using zip ties, so I opted for stainless hose clamps. I used the housing clip for support and it looked good and held tight. I'm including some pictures so you can see what I did.
I couldn't have done this without the "How-To". Thanks to meat_evo!
I installed the Walbro GSS317 pump. Many of you have chosen the GSS342, but my tuner [WORKS Motorsports] recomended the low pressure pump for applications under 500hp. They said the 342 can overpressure the fuel pressure regulator at idle and partial throttle causing SMOG problems and a confused ECU.
I bought the pump from WORKSEVO .com [came with the exact fuel filter that the "How-To" mentioned, and got all the bits from apeusa.com. If you are going to buy from WORKS, then don't bother buying a filter from apeusa.com, it's the same exact filter. Now I have two.
I also went to the hardware store and purchased three stainless steel hose clamps
1: 1-5/16" to 2-1/4"
2: 5/16" to 7/8"
Total: $4.25
I made another trip to get some Dap Blue Stik Reusable Adhesive Putty because some of the black gum was destroyed when taking off the cover.
Adhesive Putty: $3.28
Here's another tip. After you take the housing out, crack the windows and put the cover back on or put some box tape or duct tape over the opening so that the gas fumes don't infect your interior. I used masking tape because it's all I had laying around and left the car for 2 hours while I was working on the housing and the interior doesn't smell like gas.
Car is running good and about to be screaming with some Cosworth cams.
I wouldn't recommend what I did at all. I will post up pics eventually when I switch my setup out, I am going to a proven e85 safe setup, mine makes me nervous, but 6k miles out of the foam sock method on e85 and still no problems.
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