As a comparison I'm running 7-8* at 290-300 load around 4k RPM climbing to 15-16* at 260-270 load at 7k RPM with 27 psi boost. I know you were tuning to run more boost and usually that makes more power compared to timing advance but 7* at redline seems really low, almost too low.

I'm assuming you have the boost limit tables set for 10-20% over what you normally see, did it not shut down the party fast enough? I guess it's possible that 1 second of extreme torque from hitting 40 psi could have set the stage for a future failure but I didn't even think the 3 bar MAP sensor could read that high. What does the stock 3 bar MAP sensor read up to? I'm seeing conflicting info when I do searches, anywhere between 29 psi (~2 bar above atmosphere) and 36 psi when I know that I've logged 30 psi on my car already with 100 unleaded.

Good luck on the built engine, I'm sure it will be much better than the stock setup.

Hopefully others that have had failures will be as open as you have!

 

I logged up to 32 psi on the stock sensor... on a FP Red.

 

The Mitsu 3 bar flatlines at 33psi at sea level.



- Bryan

 

OMG dude lol, did mitsu cover all three of these? what mods and such, more details

 

BTW, I read in HKS report about building cz200s (evo x time attack car), that rods are the weakest link in 4b11.


http://www.hks-power.co.jp/products/...3004am002.html

 

So 3 bar Mitsu caps at 33 psi, good to know Bryan!

Anyone know if there a 4 bar MAP sensor upgrade that can be used on our cars and stock ECU logging or do you have to calibrate it as an additional source voltage with a new formula? PM me and I can start a new thread to avoid clogging this one up.

Likely I'll never run past about 32 psi but you never know.

I agree we should streamline the thread if possible but you aren't going to see 20 people list engine failures and not expect a few people to want to discuss how to avoid popping one themselves. I brought up the limits of the stock MAP sensor/ecu logging boost so that someone doesn't plan on tuning for 33 psi only to find out they are really running 40 psi and assuming the ECU is right.

 

Ask Tephra or mrfred to find the MAP calibration tables and you can use the omnipower 4 and 5 bar MAP sensors like the 8/9 guys do.

- Bryan

 

Timing could be too low indeed... I'll find out where it actually should be once I have a proper block, new FMIC, and a bigger shot of meth.

Boost limit tables were set at 315, so it did indeed boost cut after 1500 ms. That was probably too late, though. I'll be upping those values slightly and setting the threshold to 1000 ms for my new tune.

40 psi was a guess based upon 1.) the load value of over 400% and 2.) the slope of the boost curve where it maxed out at 33 psi.

 

all repars/ partspaid out of my pocket i dont rely on mitsu very much for repairs....

 

Others (see https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...misfiring.html) have suggested that the OEM ("black") fuel pump relay was possibly responsible for engine failures for not only significantly modified but also those mildly modified engines e.g., just a tune and exhaust. However, UT EvoX says he had replaced the black relay with the currently Mitsu recommended green replay (although when in his engine upgrades/mods was not stated) and still he got engine failure. So at this point it is unclear whether damage occurred as a result of the black relay prior to its replacement with the green relay or just pushing the limits of the OEM components/rods beyond their application or some combination of the two.
In short, separating cause and effect here is going to be problematic to say the least.

Later, Ken

 

In my eyes u should had a pro.tuner tune your car for 300 bucks i would like a clear mind also how many years have u been tuning?

 

Almost 5 years now on newer-generation force-fed Mitsubishis. Far more than anybody else I know personally, even "professionally."

Nothing was wrong w/ my tune at the time of failure... nor do I plan on paying anybody else to work on my car.

Point is, you're at risk any time you modify anything with your engine setup or tuning, whether you pay somebody else to do it or do it yourself. No tuner is going to cover an entire new engine for you if what happened to me happens to your engine... especially if the tune was good.

Really odd first post... definitely not on-topic at all, but I had a point to make.

 

The fuel pump relay didn't even potentially have anything to do with my failure. I changed it many months ago.

And people who continue to push their cars when those relays are failing just are asking for it. It's REALLY obvious, even without a wideband, when a force-fed car is running 16+ AFR. You should know to just back off immediately, and go check it out. Now that's not the case on cars making huge power, where one instance of that happening is enough to cause irreparable damage.

 

UT_EvoX... Can you please list your mods at the time of failure?

BTW, there was another 4B11T failure... he had meth and concluded it was a meth failure that caused it. I'll see if I can find the thread.

 

From my sig + a few others:CBRD BB-X turbo | ported exhaust manifold & turbine housing
Invidia DP/TP/N1 catback | Cobb Intake + Inlet hose
Custom UICP | Snow Performance CH3OH/H2O injection
AMS inline fuel pump, 1000 cc/min DW injectors, Cossy fuel rail (doesn't matter, but just illustrating the adequacy of my fuel system)

In addition, replaced potentially defective fuel pump relay with a known-good OEM green one.