I wrote up an install guide for the ETS manifold, although it applies to just about any tubular manifold:

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...all-guide.html

I also had that exact same plug melt but it didn't happen right away. It wasn't until I really ran the car hard and then parked it with a glowing manifold, even the wrap could not keep enough heat off it. I've since wrapped it with DEI Cool Tape as mentioned in this thread:

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...-manifold.html

I made a small X on the side of the connector with a sharpie marker underneath the DEI cooltape and after checking the melting has stopped so that is the solution I would suggest for now. It would probably be a good idea for all tubular manifold makers to buy some of that tape and just include it with the their manifolds since that plug is just dangerously close to the heat sources it's eventually going to cause an issue.
Sorry you had such bad luck, the gains with them are quite good with larger turbos.

 

I have an ETS turbo kit on my IX, the runners actually stay cooler IMO than the old megan runners I had. You can touch them shortly after turning the engine off on my car.

 

Apologize but not quite sure what this has to do with the OP?

Im glad your ETS Turbo kit has no issue, but unfortunately the EVO X manifolds do present issues when used. Really think ETS needs to address this, or create some sort of heat shield for that side of the mani and include it with there manifolds (even if it ends up costing more for the mani, because in the long run it will cost the customer to repair the damage...).

 

First, you should have contacted ETS before posting on this issue. Second, you need to use your head a bit and maybe do a touch of research before buying an expensive part and modifying your car. Jet Hot coating does not insulate from heat, its simply a coating that, as said before, can withstand 2200F. You are running very hot exhaust runners near unshielded plastic pieces, the stock manifold has shields that do block considerable heat from parts like that. You have removed said shields. That being said, it doesn't excuse ETS if they sold you a part without warning, but it helps to be an informed customer. ETS has always been good to deal with when I have and you should always give the benefit of the doubt before posting on here. In addition, I do weld a bit (by no means an expert) but all of my parts from ETS exhibit excellent weld structure and I would not likely trust your mechanic within 10 feet of my car.

In an effort to fix this issue, I would look into header wrap as posted before and either wrap the sensor or the header itself. You can likely get a new sensor from Mitsubishi and solder the new one in place with little hassle (though I admittedly do not know how buried that sensor is in the X).

Please try to reconcile this with ETS on Monday, if things go poorly, then let us know.

 

Thanks for pointing this out Hiboost! Im going to go to my local automotive shop and pic up some of that DEI tape and hope it helps. If not I am def, going to dump this mani.

You say you saw quite good gains when using it w/ larger framed turbos. Currently im running a Dom 2 and honestly we compared it to another car with identical setup and really didn't see much in terms of gains. Maybe with race gas you might start seeing some true potential, but from what I saw it wasn't worth $800.

 

just get some heat resistance dei tape or shield and your fixed...

 

Agree with you on the posting part, I will give them the benefit of the doubt and hopefully they address this issue as it is serious (like Hiboost said, they should include some sort of shield or tape to protect that part).

As for the mechanic who mentioned that the welds were sub par, I won't disclose, but lets just say, im sure he is far far far more qualified to make those opinions on this piece, considering he has built race cars that are track proven and maintains/works on some of the fastest evo's, subies, hell you name it hes touched it and made it better (the guy is legit and if I actually told you who he was, I'm sure you'd agree). So to say/imply the mechanic doesn't know what hes talking about is just....

 

If you agree with me on the posting part, edit this thread until you have contacted ETS.

I'm going to have to trust you on the welding part, but I would point out: if this is such an excellent Evo racer you have access to, why not have him build a new manifold or fix the current one?

 

Will try this. Hope it solves the problem (temp). Thanks!

 

Could not have said it any better.

OP you have to use some common sense and realize what a tubular manifold is really good for. I would not even think of using one on a small turbo like you are using it on. That is a waste of money when the stock cast manifold after being ported can easily flow enough to support your needs.

If it is so bad of a piece then give it to me or sell it dirt cheap with a warning to someone.

 

i would say it, is a good idea to wrap or ceramic coat any after market exhaust - turbo etc part in the egine bay. which is replacing any oem piece with heat shield.
The heat shield is there for a good reason.

 

I have seen this on another X with close to your setup with the dom 2 and this car made GREAT power compared to others. Force Fed built/tuned the car and did a great job. This IS an issue but I would've addressed it to the vendor in a pm FIRST. Give them a chance to make it right as I'm sure they will. It sucks but thats part of the growing pains with new parts. Things like this will make parts better in the future for other X owners. Keep your cool and give them the chance to make it right. Both are great vendors.

 

Why should he have to pay for a new manifold or to fix the current one.

ETS made a part without putting enough thought into it. If ETS even test fit this part on to a X then the problem should have been caught.

 

Sorry to hear about your problem. Thanks for sharing, though, since I'll pay careful attention to that area when I install mine. I went with Full Race but I may want to wrap it there in addition to the ceramic coating that I just had done.

 

I'm pretty sure it was test fit but probably on an engine stand when they were fabbing the manifold to match the stock location. The issue actually won't necessarily appear right off the bat as the lower half of the plug didn't melt on mine while the upper half melted. So it appears that Mitsu used two different types of plastic there and only the lower half of the plug seems to be able to take the heat.

I'm still curious what the 2010 people are going to do with their plastic valve covers. Now THAT could get ugly really quick unless precautions are taken.