EvoX-11

iTrader: (7)

I am thinking about getting AEM boost gauge to go along with my AEM wideband.

This is the gauge

$130 is not bad at all. Please share your experiences about this gauge.

Thanks

TJSAP00

iTrader: (4)

I have it in my Evo 8. Gauge works great etc and I just love the way it looks. Looks great at night too.. Pick it up man, won't regret it.

EvoX-11

iTrader: (7)

Awesome!
Does it show the peak boost tho?

ChrisBond1

iTrader: (9)

You mean after you're done boosting and want to check to see what your highest boost was?

No. Just shows what boost or vacuum you're at.

stokEd

iTrader: (3)

I have the same gauges and beyond that the new analog gauges are picky about where you draw power, I've had zero problems. And if you do run into trouble, AEM's customer service is great.

Mine:

EvoX-11

iTrader: (7)

Yeah thats what I meant. Dang! I really want to have that option...

Nice, looks very nice. Where did u end up drawing the power?

JimGVT

iTrader: (6)

The only issue I've had is that occasionally the calibration is off by a few psi, sometimes +, sometimes -. Haven't quite figured out when the gauge actually calibrates. I have followed all suggestions for power with no effect. Doesn't happen very often so I've decided to live with it. Other than that, no issues at all.

EvoX-11

iTrader: (7)

Thanks for sharing.

Not keeping peak boost in memory is deal breaker for me anyways...

I think I amma go with the STRI DSD II 52mm

stokEd

iTrader: (3)

For my AEM gauges:

Fuse 3 - CONSTANT Power
Fuse 12 - IGNITION Power




Check out this thread: https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...m-reading.html

If you get power from fuses 3 & 12 everything should work right every time. Most of the other IGN power sources cause problems with this gauge.

sxng9

Here's what I did. I bought an HKS MT-6 turbo timer harness, so I can easily tap at the ignition source. From there, I ran a wire from the GREEN wire from the HKS MT-6 harness to a distribution block and then tapped my AEM boost gauge to the distribution block. Any future gauges you install, would just require you to tap at the distribution block, which makes it easy work. My AEM boost gauge flips between -18 to -20 on car idle, which is normal... I think.

HPEVOX

iTrader: (2)

Yeah mine goes between -18 to -20 at idle as well with AC off. Usually about -16 with AC on. Peaks around 20 to 21. Mine spikes up to 24 25 to in fourth at WOT around 4k rpm, but now i have the cobb AP tuned for the intake i have and no more spiking

JimGVT

iTrader: (6)

That is how its powered and I've double and triple checked everything. I actually used your writeup to wire it (thanks BTW). It only gets a bad calibration on the order of 1 out of 20 times and I haven't been able to correlate it to anything.

JimGVT

iTrader: (6)

Do you happen to know if the gauge performs its calibration right when it is powered? Reason I ask is that it seems to always calibrate correctly if I wait until the needle reaches zero (with the key in the on position) before actually cranking the car.

sxng9

The gauge performs it's calibration right away and set itself to 0, once it's powered on. There's two possible issues here:

1) I think the issue here could be the way people have their power sources tapped. If you start the car and then the gauge powers on and then, there's an interruption of the power source during the ignition start, it will force the gauge to re-calibrate itself before even finishing it's current calibration. I have my gauge set up, so that when the key is in the ON position, it sends power to the gauge and stays on, even while ignition start. The calibration process takes roughly 2-3 seconds to complete... although I could be wrong.

2) There's an erratic change in the vacuum line during calibration at startup.

JimGVT

iTrader: (6)

Thanks for the info on the calibration. I do have a fairly long vacuum line to where I have the sensor mounted. Maybe I'll move the sensor so that it has a shorter run and see what happens...