Hollywood / AMS 750R / E85 / dump tube build
#1
Hollywood / AMS 750R / E85 / dump tube build
To be continued.....
So lets start from the beginning (Its a good place) the box showed up is 2 days from AMS. Eric Gaudi their sales manager took down my order, noted all the wants and needs with awesome service. When the box about showed up I couldn't believe how much was in it. It looked like I was unloading a clown car with all the gear that came out of it. Out of all the parts I've had on and off my car this AMS kit was for sure the best packaged and organized, they even had a full checklist so you can inventory everything. Plus they sent everything, even down to the zip ties and every piece was good quality nothing cheap.
PTE5857 Air cooled (NO WATER lines needed) turbo; Ceramic ball bearing so it will last a long damn time on synthetic oil unlike journal bearing turbos.
3.5" Intake that comes with the kit and is much like the MAP or Primo intakes, plus it comes with a fantastic heat shield.
#2
Now the weld quality is supurb, and the fitment is nothing short of perfect. When you install though its good to get all the V bands connected and leave them loose until you have all the parts on so you have room to adjust.
This kit comes with all kinds of heat shields for everything and they work. There has to be a ton of money in heat shields alone on this kit.
The big one below is a stainless very rigid shield that has a heat wrap attached to it. It bolts to the firewall and it along with some other heat protective covers helps to keep you from ruining various lines and sensors. There is a lot of time / effort / and race engineering put into these shields.
This kit comes with all kinds of heat shields for everything and they work. There has to be a ton of money in heat shields alone on this kit.
The big one below is a stainless very rigid shield that has a heat wrap attached to it. It bolts to the firewall and it along with some other heat protective covers helps to keep you from ruining various lines and sensors. There is a lot of time / effort / and race engineering put into these shields.
#3
Black vs 750R
More boost on the Black but was capped by fuel on both, I had more head room on the 750R kit once I got the new 1300cc injectors. After tuning both sets I can say there is a balance between the two set ups and a purpose for each. The Black is for sure a fantastic beast of a turbo for a drop in replacement and can make fantastic power with it's awesome HTA wheels. The 750R is more of full road race kit designed for serious racers in mind. It incorporates all the track engineering AMS picked up during the season to keep it all reliable and protect your other underhood items.
If you have the cash to do it all up front instead of bit by bit, and want a serious kit meant for racing this is what to go for. On my car I'm pretty sure at this point I've tapped out my exhaust and need it opened up more plus the larger injectors of course but very well rounded right now.
At the point where I reached my 641whp I called it a night and was driving home and did a 1st - 3rd pull when I got a SEL and lost power to the car. I pulled over and started looking for oil and didn't see any or and holes.
Long story short I pulled the valve cover off and all looked good, then pulled the oil pan off and everything looked beautiful. Really did the cylinder walls and pistons / rods are all still shiny happy sexy. However I have a billet crank pulley thats a ****ing dangerous piece of ****. My key way tore through the billet like it was tin and was free spinning that hunk of junk. So if your reading this DON'T BUY THE ALUMINUM CRANK PULLEYS!
More boost on the Black but was capped by fuel on both, I had more head room on the 750R kit once I got the new 1300cc injectors. After tuning both sets I can say there is a balance between the two set ups and a purpose for each. The Black is for sure a fantastic beast of a turbo for a drop in replacement and can make fantastic power with it's awesome HTA wheels. The 750R is more of full road race kit designed for serious racers in mind. It incorporates all the track engineering AMS picked up during the season to keep it all reliable and protect your other underhood items.
If you have the cash to do it all up front instead of bit by bit, and want a serious kit meant for racing this is what to go for. On my car I'm pretty sure at this point I've tapped out my exhaust and need it opened up more plus the larger injectors of course but very well rounded right now.
At the point where I reached my 641whp I called it a night and was driving home and did a 1st - 3rd pull when I got a SEL and lost power to the car. I pulled over and started looking for oil and didn't see any or and holes.
Long story short I pulled the valve cover off and all looked good, then pulled the oil pan off and everything looked beautiful. Really did the cylinder walls and pistons / rods are all still shiny happy sexy. However I have a billet crank pulley thats a ****ing dangerous piece of ****. My key way tore through the billet like it was tin and was free spinning that hunk of junk. So if your reading this DON'T BUY THE ALUMINUM CRANK PULLEYS!
#5
spools like a black on a 2.0... AMS kit is great, but I personally prefer the 2.3/Black powerband cause I like to autox also, not just track...
you must have money burning a whole in your pocket... lol, you had the black setup, for what, 3 months?
you must have money burning a whole in your pocket... lol, you had the black setup, for what, 3 months?
#6
I like working on my car and testing the different gear out, if I didn't do my own tuning and mechanic work it would be a very expensive hobby. At this point though turbo setups are like dating, just gotta try them all out to see who can keep me hard without giving me something I can't wash off. Plus I'm setting up to run with one of the locals here Jake Montgomery I gotta at least give him a decent race.
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#8
it is way laggier, but its all about what you're after.. still full boost at 4k is still plenty quick enough.. that kit looks amazing.. ams sure does make some badass turbo kits.
btw that is a big ****ing led work light you got there lol.
btw that is a big ****ing led work light you got there lol.
Last edited by tscompusa2; Jun 6, 2011 at 09:41 PM.
#9
THe power is just a few hundred RPM different between 3-4k after that it's a different ball game.
Also that light is bad ***! After I saw the one Chris Fogg had at Cobb Surgeline I totally had to have one.
#10
A 9 second Evo 8 with a HTA 3586 on E85
If you really look at the chart only the boost is lagging, not the power.
THe power is just a few hundred RPM different between 3-4k after that it's a different ball game.
Also that light is bad ***! After I saw the one Chris Fogg had at Cobb Surgeline I totally had to have one.
If you really look at the chart only the boost is lagging, not the power.
THe power is just a few hundred RPM different between 3-4k after that it's a different ball game.
Also that light is bad ***! After I saw the one Chris Fogg had at Cobb Surgeline I totally had to have one.
what is that light called i want one.. it hooks onto the hood like that and lights the entire engine bay up like a christmas tree?
and about what did you pay for it?
nm i found them.. thank you for posting these pics man.. i didnt know these lights existed.. 100+ LED's damn!
http://www.amazon.com/CPS-Products-C.../dp/B002YKAZCW
Last edited by tscompusa2; Jun 6, 2011 at 10:57 PM.
#11
If you really look close you are down almost 100wtq from 3300 to 3800rpm but I agree after that who cares. If you downshift you wouldn't even feel the difference I bet.
#12
Tephra was comparing this set up to a 33R one you tuned, what do you think are they pretty closely matched turbos?
#13
Nice results.
If I notice correctly, although peak boost for the black was a bit higher, from 4400rpm to 6000rpm the black is about 1 psi less, and after 6000rpm the difference starts to increase, as by 7000rpm there is a 2 psi difference, at 7200rpm (peak power) about 3 psi difference and at 8000rpm 4psi difference. I believe the results would have been closer if you could get the boost on the black to match the one on the 750 kit all the way, especially that the black at 25psi (boost at peak power) is not well into its efficiency range.
If I notice correctly, although peak boost for the black was a bit higher, from 4400rpm to 6000rpm the black is about 1 psi less, and after 6000rpm the difference starts to increase, as by 7000rpm there is a 2 psi difference, at 7200rpm (peak power) about 3 psi difference and at 8000rpm 4psi difference. I believe the results would have been closer if you could get the boost on the black to match the one on the 750 kit all the way, especially that the black at 25psi (boost at peak power) is not well into its efficiency range.