Roger350

Newbie here, trying to decide between a GSR and an MR. I've read all the pro/con threads on the SST, and for me it comes down to being a large guy with long/big legs and huge feet (6'2" 240lbs 13Wide Shoe) I'm not sure I can succesfully pull off a heel-and-toe downshift. So I'm trying to decide, but it's brought up a question I haven't really found answered here:

I know the SST is practically limited to about 350 lb-ft torque at the wheels, which I assume is completely attainable with bolt-ons and a tune, and no need to upgrade turbos, etc.

But what about the GSR? How far can you push a GSR with bolt-ons? I do not plan on opening the engine up to strengthen the bottom end, and probably wouldn't even go far enough to seriously consider cams, so if I'm not going to open up the engine, What kind of power/torque can you get on bolt-ons and a tune if you don't have to worry about the fragile SST?

Where I'm going is I'm trying to see how much power I'm leaving on the table if I go the MR route. If I know the GSR only has 50hp/50lb-ft more potential through bolt-ons then I won't feel too bad. But if I can get an extra 100hp without opening up the engine, just because I don't have to worry about preserving the SST, then I might have to consider the GSR more seriously.

Throwing out the Transmissions, where is the weak link in this drivetrain? Is the engine bottom end the weak link, or is it the transfer case, differentials, etc?

Any help is appreciated, and sorry for all the newbie questions!

tico915007

iTrader: (1)

I cant speak as far as the MR goes but I have a GSR with full bolt ons minus cams: Agp hardpipes FMIC CAI, 1000cc DW inj, Blaq Ops fuel pump, Invidia downpipe, CP-E Single, and most importantly E85 car put down 363 hp 378 tq at 27 lbs pretty good considering I am on stock wastegate and boost controller. E85 really opends these cars up and if its not an option for you id look into Meth

krackerstache

iTrader: (4)

I have a GSR and preform heel-toe down shifts no problem.. I'm 6'5" 220 ((was 255 =P)) with a wide size 15 foot... i feel like its easier to pull off a heel toe with a wider foot lol

And like you said the MR trany is limited in the power that it can sustain... I know a few guys who sold their MRs and bought GSRs because they wanted to make more power... GSR is the way to go

Roger350

Thanks for the replies. I'm sure I can figure out how to heel & toe, I can already tell I'll need a wider gas pedal to do the roll over technique. And You've obviously figured out how to make it work with longer legs and feet than me.

I guess what I'm wondering though is if I'm not going to open up the engine, do cams, or a bigger turbo, or E85 (not readily available), then am I really leaving any power on the table going with an MR?

I guess turbo back exhaust, intercooler & intercooler plumbing upgrades, performance air filter and piping, and a tune are really all I'd be looking at doing. So it really comes down to the tune I guess. How much more aggressive can you tune it for the GSR, as far as power/torque numbers?

Thanks for all the help.

HAHAV8

I think its safe to say that with full bolt-ons the transmission in the GSR will be perfectly fine.

You really don't hear much about trannys going in the GSR, other than maybe some peoples diff pins shearing.

Roger350

Yeah but would the MR tranny hold up to full bolt -ons. Or are you going to have to dial back the tune or leave some power on the table to preserve the SST?

Thanks,

flipflop

iTrader: (2)

Like you mentioned already. The stock SST is limited to 340-350 torque. With full bolt ons and a tune, without e85, higher octane fuel, meth, bigger turbo, and cams you probably would not reach that amount of torque anyways (gsr or mr). I can be wrong but I haven't seen any gsr's or MR's putting down that much power with just basic bolt ons and a tune.

KyleH

iTrader: (3)

I've not officially dyno'd my car, but with a good tune, upper I/C pipe, K&N drop-in and a cutout I'm showing north of 350 torque in all the virtual dyno programs with my GSR. With that said, conventional wisdom around here is that 380-400 is about the limit on the stock bottom end as far as torque is concerned. Now horsepower is another matter. Again, obviously not speaking from experience, but from what I gather around here, you'll need a bigger hairdryer and a few upgrades to support it, but 450+ AWHP isn't out of the question on the stock bottom-end if you're on a quest for power. Obviously this would necessitate many other ($$) supporting mods.

Also, for what it's worth, the Evo X is a rather large cabin. I agree with the other guy that a wider foot is beneficial to have while heel-toeing this car. Just go drive the GSR and see if you like it.

JDMCT9MR

iTrader: (56)

If your looking to make more power and tq I would say the GSR. Now you can make plenty of power with a MR but there are more components that have to be upgraded when you are shooting for more HP. I have a Invidia Catted DP/Invidia N1, ARC FMIC, HKS I/C piping, and a AEM intake and I made 340whp and 366wtq with my 08 GSR. Car runs like a champ.

flipflop

iTrader: (2)

On what Dyno you gsr's are hitting these whp and tq on? With just basic bolt ons and a tune?!? That's hella high!

KyleH

iTrader: (3)

I use virtual dyno.

01CBR929

iTrader: (8)

I think a 13w shoe may actually make it easier for you to heel-toe shift. My evo 8 was easy, but the spacing between the gas/brake are further apart on an X making my size 11 shoe struggle to do it.

Roger350

The foot width is definately a plus, but I have driven a GSR, and sat in them playing with the pedal position multiple times, and even my wide 13 doesn't let me perform a roll-over type throttle blip. But new pedal covers ought to fix that problem. Unfortunately the length of my foot and general lack of flexibility in my long legs when they are bent up trying to get myself close enough to the wheel because of the X's poor driver adjustability for large americans (no telescoping wheel, etc) precludes me from attempting the more traditional heel-toe manuever with my heel on the bottom of the gas pedal and the ball of my foot on the brake.

Thanks for all the answers. It sounds to me like the MR can easily survive the basic bolt-ons / tune I have in mind, although it would obviously require a better trans cooler for track days. But if I think major mods would ever be in my plans, then I'd be better off with the GSR. And of course there is the satisfaction of learning how to heel-toe the car, and take complete control, rather than sitting back and letting the SST do the shifting.

Thanks for all the help.

JDMCT9MR

iTrader: (56)

I used a dyna pack. I think on other dynos I would be more in the range of 325whp and 340 wtq.

ErnGotti

iTrader: (3)

Just a heads up, most guys who throw power at the GSR, myself included, and drive it how its meant to be driven, replace the clutch within the first 30-35k miles. That is one non-bolt on you will undoubtedly replace. The ACT ME1HDSS and Streetlite combo are what I and a number of others with the mods you're looking at getting, get. Its a naturally weak pressure plate, and a 14.4 hour rated job at the dealer. So save up and buy that too.