I'm building my 2011 X MR a bit more than I originally intended to when I bought it and will be posting information regarding power gains with my build path, and my overall experience with Atlantic Motorsports in Gaithersberg, MD. So far, these guys have been extremely cool and helpful with not only diagnosing what we can only tell to be a bad MAF sensor, to just talking with them and having a genuinely good experience with my order thus far.

When I first bought the car in April, I intended to put about 325whp into it and go to Buschur Racing because they have a good reputation and they're close to my hometown. Buschur did a very good job at making my car perform while allowing drivability. However, after driving it for a little over a month, I decided that the parts I ordered just aren't quite enough. So, I chose to beef up the transmission and then obtain some additional power through new cams and added exhaust components.

Here's what I'm looking at doing next week at Atlantic Motorsports, on top of the bolt-ons I obtained through Buschur last month....

SSP 500whp clutch pack w/ steels
AMS Transmission cooler
Redline synthetic transmission fluid
Fog light delete w/ carbon fiber filler
Kelford 214a cams
ARP 11mm head studs
Defi 53mm White Racer boost gauge
Turbo XS Bellmouth Downpipe w/ test pipe

Currently running:

BR FMIC
BR UICP/LICP
BR SS Crossflow CBE
Manual boost controller
K&N cone intake
BR tuned

I guess my ultimate goal of creating this thread is just to provide additional information to the Evo X community and maybe get some opinions on what I am currently doing. I'd be interested to see what some of the more experienced guys think about the path I have chosen. Any insight would be appreciated.

 

298tq is a little low for your setup no? Im looking forward to see your new power. Hope evrything goes well.

 

Looking forward to seeing the power after the work and tuning. Sounds like you have a good start. As far as the redline fluids for your drive train, just to give you my experience with it. I like the fluid, but man it makes my tranny notchy when its cold. At times it is hard to get into gear when I first drive the car for about ten to fifteen minutes. Sucks in cold weather pretty much. I hear that this is the same with X's.

 

I don't think so but I have a lot more context than you about my tune and the conditions. Basically, I asked Buschur for a "moderate" tune that's completely safe and not trying to make too much power with those mods, and it was like 100 degrees outside. On top of that, they use a Mustang 500 series dyno, which spits out lower numbers than Dynojets or Dynomites, for example.

Atlantic Motorsports said they're going to be doing a baseline run on their Dynomite once my MAF problem is resolved, and they expect it to be about 320whp or so, with a similarly correlated gain in wtq. Should be interesting to see how the numbers read with them.

Thanks for the support man!

 

Good to hear about the build path. I figured it was a logical way to go without getting crazy with a new turbo system or really getting into the internals.

Really? I have not heard that about the fluid so that's interesting to me. Hopefully I don't have the same issues, although I don't really plan on driving it too much in the winter. If it becomes a problem I'll have to switch to something else then... Thanks for the info man.

 

He has an MR. The GSRs have some notchy issues that may or may not be helped by fluid, depending on who you ask, but I am not aware of any MR fluid issues. Might want to check the SST subforum to see if there is a hot ticket...

 

Some suggestions:
-replace the MBC with a 3-port BCS
-Redline doesn't make SST tranny fluid, stick with the OEM DiaQueen
-you don't need headstuds
-forget the AMS knock-off TurboXS downpipe and either get the real deal or a divorced design from MAP or ETS
-with proper SST tuning you shouldn't need upgrade clutches unless you're going with a larger turbo

 

Agreed.

Also regarding the set clutch upgrade spend the extra 100 and get the 600 hp kit also replace the dct seals while your inside there. Also make sure who ever does it knows how to calibrate it afterwards

 

Got the car back today, and drove it around quite a bit. It is performing extremely well. The exhaust tone is damn near perfect, the turbo spools REAL quick, and it makes power through every gear from 0-100. It makes 364awhp, but it honestly feels much more powerful than that. I made the right choice with a MR.

I decided against the SSP 500hp clutch packs btw.

 

Dynojets read %12 higher than mustang so you are at 320whp.
So you gained about 23 whp. That sounds about right.

 

Actually, just realized it's a Dynomite. Not much of a difference regardless from what I've heard.

Serious question though, are you being sarcastic or no? I've been thinking that's a lower number than I would have thought for a downpipe and cam install. This is my first tuner car so this is all pretty new to me.

 

Battle of the dynos is useless unless you run around claiming extraordinarily high hp/tq numbers, in which case, the 300hp Dynojet Evo is slightly less powerful than the heartbreaking 300hp Mustang Evo.

Another thing, not everyone has access to a Mustang dyno just like not everyone has access to a Dynojet dyno. All you should be concerned with is the baseline vs tuned numbers, which is why he pointed out the fact you gained 23hp.

 

I don't care what the dynos read, I'm just wondering if this is sound math and whether or not the proposed increase is truly what would be expected from those mods. I asked if he was sarcastic about the increase he stated, because I have been skeptical over whether or not the number was what would be expected.

If you have any insight, I'd appreciate it too.

 

Well usually the Dynojets are around 20% losses where as the Mustang Dynos that are calibrated right are around 30% losses like Buschur's or STM's. You made more power but maybe not as much as you think. Being different dynos it will still be hard to compare apples to apples.

How do you like that Buschur Crossflow catback? I have one coming for my 2011 Evo X MR any day now, I wanted moderate for the street and cruising around. I'll have an external dump tube for going WOT and killing it.

 

Thanks for the info, that was helpful. I was expecting around 40-50whp with the cams and downpipe/test pipe being added, but obviously this was not the case. Oh well. It's still a noticeable difference, for sure.

I liked the exhaust system a lot when I had just the CBE setup. Dave Buschur is a family business partner of my step dad's dragster company, so I contacted him wanting exactly what you do, and he actually turned me onto a different system. The name escapes me but there's only a few options on their site. I went onto Youtube and found their videos of them testing it out and thought it wasn't quite what I wanted, so I opted for the SS Crossflow. It was just loud enough, and had a really nice tone. It was very tasteful for someone that wants a moderate exhaust. Now that I added the cams and downpipe, it's LOUD and lobes really nicely. Someone will compliment the car or the exhaust sound in general almost anywhere I go. It sounds really good man. It's also pretty high quality in it's design and how it all comes together under the car. You won't be disappointed.