This should not be a concern with the M1 0w40 since Mitsubishi recommends this oil in Canada. I doubt Mits would recommend an oil that would cause future Timing Chain Stretching. Additionally the 0w40 carries the API cert SN that is required for your warranty. Most 40 and 50 weight oils do not meet this requirement where as the 0w40 M1 does. I am sure there may be others too but this is one that is readily available pretty much anywhere. If your car is modified then using a SN oil is not an issue since you voided your warranty already by doing Tuning and bolt on mods. So use whatever oil you want at that time. For Stock Motors, the 5w30 M1 EP or M1 0w40 should be very good oils to use. I used the M1 10w30 on my 9 MR for years pushing 100whp more than stock and oil analysis showed the oil held up fine.

Jeff

 

I'm on 10w-30. IDK about you guys, but from what I know, bad things happen when warmed up oil is thin.

 

Run AMSoil 5w20. Have for about 25k miles and ran the sht out of it. 0 problems thus far.

 

For purposes of a Stock Evo under warranty using a 5w20 would void your warranty. Now if your car is modified then who cares right? you can use what you want? Using a 5/20 in an Evo can be done with the new 4B11T but that oil is more for MPG's than for Durability though you have used it with success. For me? I am not going to try that. Where I live, the temps are just too high for a 20w oil in the summer.

Oil though is all a matter of choice, but those that choose to stay stock and keep our warranties are more limited to what we can use.

I am considering the M1 0w40 though which is recommended for use in Canada per Though the 0w is not what I am looking for, the 40w may be more suitable for occasional track use and DD duties while still being ok with for warranty purposes.

Its all trial and error on oil. Just how much you are willing to "try" at your engines expense is up to each person.

Jeff

 

Hardcore

 

An Amsoil Dealer giviing the on an oil that doesnt approve of? mmmmm.

a 20w carries too low of a HTHS IMO for the Evo. Even the 4B11T. Sure you can run it, but the 20w oils are Energy Conserving and would be great if you were just putting around town. You have used it for 25K with success and that is great, but I think your pushing your luck personally. If your car is at all Modified and tuned to make more power than stock I would really re consider your oil weight choice.

Maybe after 100K miles and an engine tear down to do a comparo would prove me wrong on this one. The thing is, we will never see that now will we?

Amsoil Reps should be pushing what is recommended. ESPECIALLY if the car is under factory warranty. Not what happens to work IMO. In cars like the Evo going up a grade will never hurt nothing. Going down a grade is a crap shoot. Maybe for a N/A motor, but not a Turbo Charged Car. But who am I?? haha.

Jeff

 

0-40 year around. It is onc elf M1s best oils. And for heavy duty use and track days I do 4 parts 0w40 ad one part 15w50 M1 racing. Performs great and have had great results in the evo.

 

Old thread from the dead

I haven't ran anything but AMSoil. I've been between 5w20, 5w30, 10w30. I've recently been tearing the car down for a lot of maintenance lately. Decided to check the timing chain for stretch since so many have had a problem. Pulled the valve cover and it's great. Not even close the the "right side of the indicator" when visually inspecting. I think this speaks highly of AMSoil and maybe my meticulous maintenance like changing my oil every 2k miles . 2008 year model car is still strong at 60k now.

 

Good for you.. if you ever pull the head of and we can take a peak at the internals it be nice if you can post some pics.... ive seen what happens after a car runs AMSOIL after 60K, 80K and 300K... for some reason the inside looks spanking new

 

Well, good thing 0w-40 is thicker than 10w-30.

 

I run 0W40 M1 in everything I own. 70K miles in my 2011 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited, 33K miles in my 2011 LR4, 39K miles in my 135i, and 2K miles so far in my 2014 Evo MR. By far it is a fantastic oil. All of my oil analyses that I have sent off have come back flawless, and with plenty of life left over the recommended change intervals.

 

Seen the same with 20 other oil brands Synthetic and Non give us a damn break already.

Sickening

 

Here is a snapshot of my old 04 cobra iron block after running 0W40 though it. I ended up rebuilding with an aluminum block. As you can see, even with running 600+ hp, the cylinder walls are like glass.

 

Sure look clean,,, were some of the cross hatch marks still there from the honing ?

Wondering how did the bearings look like, main and rods ?

 

Everything still looked great. The cross hatching was from the factory honing. The piston rings never came in contact with those areas, so the honing was never scuffed. If I wasn't upgrading everything for maximum power, I could have reused the bearings. The crank journals didn't even need resurfacing, other than just what was needed to set it up for the new bearings..