420+ awhp
Mar 25, 2013, 07:23 AM
#16
Don't go with a Fp Green if you are going to stay stock internals.
Definitely a FP red. or EF3 or EF4. (Map's turbos are definitely cheaper but a tiny bit behind FP's)
I would Suggest a o2 dump downpipe from either MAP or ETS. They will give you a bit more power over the AMS widemouth downpipe.
Definitely a test pipe too, Get one that has a bend in it so that it doesn't rub/grind on your driveshaft carrier.
As far as cams, you wouldn't want to go to anything that is more aggressive than GSC s1's. The more aggressive ones would require head work and the bottom end of the powerband might take a hit without a aggressive tune.
Injectors:Im at 439awhp on FIC 900's, They handle it just fine.
Definitely a FP red. or EF3 or EF4. (Map's turbos are definitely cheaper but a tiny bit behind FP's)
I would Suggest a o2 dump downpipe from either MAP or ETS. They will give you a bit more power over the AMS widemouth downpipe.
Definitely a test pipe too, Get one that has a bend in it so that it doesn't rub/grind on your driveshaft carrier.
As far as cams, you wouldn't want to go to anything that is more aggressive than GSC s1's. The more aggressive ones would require head work and the bottom end of the powerband might take a hit without a aggressive tune.
Injectors:Im at 439awhp on FIC 900's, They handle it just fine.
Is it due to the huge torque curve and possible engine windowing?
I'm looking at the EF2.5 myself so this issue worries me. I'm sure the explanation will help OP also. I'm guessing the EF2.5 is b/t the Green & Red.
I'd like to pay now rather than later so this is my path:
93 oct
Clutch & CMC
FMIC
Walboro
1000 injectors
Intake & Exhaust Mani (port & polished)
Throttle (MilSpec)
I-Beams (Manley???)
Piston
EF2.5
Cobb or JMS tuned
Anything I should watch out for?
Mar 25, 2013, 05:23 PM
#17
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Just asking. Why would you push for FP Red if staying on stock internals?
Is it due to the huge torque curve and possible engine windowing?
I'm looking at the EF2.5 myself so this issue worries me. I'm sure the explanation will help OP also. I'm guessing the EF2.5 is b/t the Green & Red.
I'd like to pay now rather than later so this is my path:
93 oct
Clutch & CMC
FMIC
Walboro
1000 injectors
Intake & Exhaust Mani (port & polished)
Throttle (MilSpec)
I-Beams (Manley???)
Piston
EF2.5
Cobb or JMS tuned
Anything I should watch out for?
Is it due to the huge torque curve and possible engine windowing?
I'm looking at the EF2.5 myself so this issue worries me. I'm sure the explanation will help OP also. I'm guessing the EF2.5 is b/t the Green & Red.
I'd like to pay now rather than later so this is my path:
93 oct
Clutch & CMC
FMIC
Walboro
1000 injectors
Intake & Exhaust Mani (port & polished)
Throttle (MilSpec)
I-Beams (Manley???)
Piston
EF2.5
Cobb or JMS tuned
Anything I should watch out for?
Also I want room to grow instead of maxing out or of being close the the edge on the smaller snails.
Mar 29, 2013, 07:37 AM
#19
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Does anyone have any information about FP's new MHI turbo that is coming out? All I could find is that it's slight bigger than the green but smaller than the red. Should be equal to MAP's EF2.5.
If this turbo can get me near my goals I will jump on one of these
If this turbo can get me near my goals I will jump on one of these
Apr 1, 2013, 12:39 PM
#20
Evolving Member
Just asking. Why would you push for FP Red if staying on stock internals?
Is it due to the huge torque curve and possible engine windowing?
I'm looking at the EF2.5 myself so this issue worries me. I'm sure the explanation will help OP also. I'm guessing the EF2.5 is b/t the Green & Red.
I'd like to pay now rather than later so this is my path:
Anything I should watch out for?
Is it due to the huge torque curve and possible engine windowing?
I'm looking at the EF2.5 myself so this issue worries me. I'm sure the explanation will help OP also. I'm guessing the EF2.5 is b/t the Green & Red.
I'd like to pay now rather than later so this is my path:
Anything I should watch out for?
This reply is rather late. sorry.
But I would push for a red mainly because the larger room to grow and it still retains a very similar spool characteristic to the green. Not exactly the same but close with good tuning.
there also is the possibility of windowing a block with a large torque shot from the green, but again can be solved with good tuning.
Other than that. only thing to watch out for is buying stuff that you will need to replace as you grow. (Injectors, Turbo). I guess just if you cant decide between a bigger and a smaller turbo/injectors, go with the bigger ones. Cause when you get the bug to mod, it would be great to not have to upgrade those things for awhile.
Just my thoughts, definitely call a good shop, doesn't have to be close to you or anything, but call and tell them what plans you were thinking and see what they say.
Here is English Racings Number: (360) 210-7484 they are a great shop and will probably be very Helpful.
Apr 1, 2013, 03:04 PM
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This reply is rather late. sorry.
But I would push for a red mainly because the larger room to grow and it still retains a very similar spool characteristic to the green. Not exactly the same but close with good tuning.
there also is the possibility of windowing a block with a large torque shot from the green, but again can be solved with good tuning.
Other than that. only thing to watch out for is buying stuff that you will need to replace as you grow. (Injectors, Turbo). I guess just if you cant decide between a bigger and a smaller turbo/injectors, go with the bigger ones. Cause when you get the bug to mod, it would be great to not have to upgrade those things for awhile.
Just my thoughts, definitely call a good shop, doesn't have to be close to you or anything, but call and tell them what plans you were thinking and see what they say.
Here is English Racings Number: (360) 210-7484 they are a great shop and will probably be very Helpful.
But I would push for a red mainly because the larger room to grow and it still retains a very similar spool characteristic to the green. Not exactly the same but close with good tuning.
there also is the possibility of windowing a block with a large torque shot from the green, but again can be solved with good tuning.
Other than that. only thing to watch out for is buying stuff that you will need to replace as you grow. (Injectors, Turbo). I guess just if you cant decide between a bigger and a smaller turbo/injectors, go with the bigger ones. Cause when you get the bug to mod, it would be great to not have to upgrade those things for awhile.
Just my thoughts, definitely call a good shop, doesn't have to be close to you or anything, but call and tell them what plans you were thinking and see what they say.
Here is English Racings Number: (360) 210-7484 they are a great shop and will probably be very Helpful.
I will definetly give them a call and ask some questions. Thanks
Apr 5, 2013, 09:54 AM
#22
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I spoke with MAP before deciding on my turbo (showing up Monday and getting installed Tuesday!). Take a look at my mod list in my sig. I'll be posting up the results (I'll post on the dyno results thread as well as my sig) later next week when I get the car back.
Honestly, it's all about the tune. The big turbos will give you more room to grow but you will lose significant response time in spool.
Cobb is installing/tuning everything for me and I have complete faith they will will get close to my goal - we'll see.
My 2 cents - make sure everything is breathing as freely as possible. i.e. IC piping, full turbo-back. I would say go with a MAP turbo and use the money you will save to get a full IC kit. AMS or ETS would be my top recommendations.
Honestly, it's all about the tune. The big turbos will give you more room to grow but you will lose significant response time in spool.
Cobb is installing/tuning everything for me and I have complete faith they will will get close to my goal - we'll see.
My 2 cents - make sure everything is breathing as freely as possible. i.e. IC piping, full turbo-back. I would say go with a MAP turbo and use the money you will save to get a full IC kit. AMS or ETS would be my top recommendations.
Apr 5, 2013, 09:58 AM
#23
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Oh and some may disagree with me, but if you want a clutch I would go with ACT. I've had 2 of their HD kits and one XD (previous cars). The HD is very DD friendly and holds just fine.
Apr 5, 2013, 07:51 PM
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I spoke with MAP before deciding on my turbo (showing up Monday and getting installed Tuesday!). Take a look at my mod list in my sig. I'll be posting up the results (I'll post on the dyno results thread as well as my sig) later next week when I get the car back.
Honestly, it's all about the tune. The big turbos will give you more room to grow but you will lose significant response time in spool.
Cobb is installing/tuning everything for me and I have complete faith they will will get close to my goal - we'll see.
My 2 cents - make sure everything is breathing as freely as possible. i.e. IC piping, full turbo-back. I would say go with a MAP turbo and use the money you will save to get a full IC kit. AMS or ETS would be my top recommendations.
Honestly, it's all about the tune. The big turbos will give you more room to grow but you will lose significant response time in spool.
Cobb is installing/tuning everything for me and I have complete faith they will will get close to my goal - we'll see.
My 2 cents - make sure everything is breathing as freely as possible. i.e. IC piping, full turbo-back. I would say go with a MAP turbo and use the money you will save to get a full IC kit. AMS or ETS would be my top recommendations.
Here is a list of things I have ordered:
Harmon motive intake
UR cat back
FIC 1100
Grimmspeed 3-port
Dw65c fuel pump
Works SS with bushing kit and redline cocktail
Comp spec stage 3 segmented ceramic clutch
Still need
IC plus pipping
Downpipe
Test pipe
And turbo
Any suggestions? Ideas? Comments?
Last edited by Rktechevox; Apr 5, 2013 at 07:57 PM.
Apr 25, 2013, 08:34 AM
#25
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Alright, finally have an update. 
If you can return the FIC's, exchange them for ID 1000's. Yes, ID posts flow rates based on non-real-world testing (high heat fuel) but talking to Cobb (their 2 top tuners and the "head honcho") gave me a little more insight. They've seen a lot of issues with the FIC's which I am currently trying to work out.
The EF2.5 is going to spool a lot quicker than the EF3. It's not always about the number - something I've come to understand as of the last week or so.
What I mean is that you can have 400whp, but if you don't hit that number until the last 400-500rpm of your pull, it doesn't really matter.
What I would suggest is figuring out what is best for your driving style. Yes, the EF3 will give you better top end numbers, but the 2.5 with proper supporting mods will get you much better mid-range power while not feeling like it's running out of breath at the top.
Cobb will be putting Kelford 214b cams in my car in a few weeks - this will get me to the 410-420 number, but will also move my power curve "to the left" significantly which is exactly what I'm looking for. I want the power to come on strong earlier rather than later - just more fun to drive. If I was building and dragging the car, that would change my plans. Since this is my DD, I want power when I typically try pushing it - around 4k rpm.
Unfortunately, no one has all the answers. This is just my experience from the mods I have and what my own goals are.
If you can return the FIC's, exchange them for ID 1000's. Yes, ID posts flow rates based on non-real-world testing (high heat fuel) but talking to Cobb (their 2 top tuners and the "head honcho") gave me a little more insight. They've seen a lot of issues with the FIC's which I am currently trying to work out.
The EF2.5 is going to spool a lot quicker than the EF3. It's not always about the number - something I've come to understand as of the last week or so.
What I mean is that you can have 400whp, but if you don't hit that number until the last 400-500rpm of your pull, it doesn't really matter.
What I would suggest is figuring out what is best for your driving style. Yes, the EF3 will give you better top end numbers, but the 2.5 with proper supporting mods will get you much better mid-range power while not feeling like it's running out of breath at the top.
Cobb will be putting Kelford 214b cams in my car in a few weeks - this will get me to the 410-420 number, but will also move my power curve "to the left" significantly which is exactly what I'm looking for. I want the power to come on strong earlier rather than later - just more fun to drive. If I was building and dragging the car, that would change my plans. Since this is my DD, I want power when I typically try pushing it - around 4k rpm.
Unfortunately, no one has all the answers. This is just my experience from the mods I have and what my own goals are.
Apr 25, 2013, 11:37 PM
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^^^ wow really good way of breaking it down and expliaining the differences of each. Best advice I've seen on this forum thus far!!
I recently pulled the trigger on an ef3, got a killer deal I couldn't pass up.
Can you post an image of your dyno sheet so I can see your power curve?
I recently pulled the trigger on an ef3, got a killer deal I couldn't pass up.
Can you post an image of your dyno sheet so I can see your power curve?
Apr 28, 2013, 04:16 AM
#27
someone got tuned at cobb using an fp red (jb i think) + 91oct + stock internals + most bolt-ons
if you have facebook, look at cobb socal's page, post on January 19, 2013.
MODS:
-FP Red turbo
- ETS 18"x12"x4" FMIC
- ETS mid pipe
- Cobb UICP/LICP Hard pipe kit
- Cobb Turbo Inlet
- Cobb XLE BPV
- aFe ProDry S Stage 2 Intake System
- MAP Downpipe - Ceramic Coating
- MAP short runner manifold
- Grimmspeed Electronic 3-port Boost Control
-Walbro fuel pump 255LPH
-CNT RS Catback
COBB AP+ProTune
Results-91oct
424WHP/368TQ@25PSI
i was also tuned earlier that day, with an fp black.
if you have facebook, look at cobb socal's page, post on January 19, 2013.
MODS:
-FP Red turbo
- ETS 18"x12"x4" FMIC
- ETS mid pipe
- Cobb UICP/LICP Hard pipe kit
- Cobb Turbo Inlet
- Cobb XLE BPV
- aFe ProDry S Stage 2 Intake System
- MAP Downpipe - Ceramic Coating
- MAP short runner manifold
- Grimmspeed Electronic 3-port Boost Control
-Walbro fuel pump 255LPH
-CNT RS Catback
COBB AP+ProTune
Results-91oct
424WHP/368TQ@25PSI
i was also tuned earlier that day, with an fp black.
Apr 28, 2013, 09:48 AM
#28
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someone got tuned at cobb using an fp red (jb i think) + 91oct + stock internals + most bolt-ons
if you have facebook, look at cobb socal's page, post on January 19, 2013.
MODS:
-FP Red turbo
- ETS 18"x12"x4" FMIC
- ETS mid pipe
- Cobb UICP/LICP Hard pipe kit
- Cobb Turbo Inlet
- Cobb XLE BPV
- aFe ProDry S Stage 2 Intake System
- MAP Downpipe - Ceramic Coating
- MAP short runner manifold
- Grimmspeed Electronic 3-port Boost Control
-Walbro fuel pump 255LPH
-CNT RS Catback
COBB AP+ProTune
Results-91oct
424WHP/368TQ@25PSI
i was also tuned earlier that day, with an fp black.
if you have facebook, look at cobb socal's page, post on January 19, 2013.
MODS:
-FP Red turbo
- ETS 18"x12"x4" FMIC
- ETS mid pipe
- Cobb UICP/LICP Hard pipe kit
- Cobb Turbo Inlet
- Cobb XLE BPV
- aFe ProDry S Stage 2 Intake System
- MAP Downpipe - Ceramic Coating
- MAP short runner manifold
- Grimmspeed Electronic 3-port Boost Control
-Walbro fuel pump 255LPH
-CNT RS Catback
COBB AP+ProTune
Results-91oct
424WHP/368TQ@25PSI
i was also tuned earlier that day, with an fp black.
Now I just have to wait and see what numbers I get with an EF3 as I already purchased it. I should see similar numbers, give or take a few.
And later down the road I will add Cosworth MX1 cams and supporting valve train
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