Oil Filter Time
Apr 17, 2008, 03:49 PM
#17
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This couldn't be further from the truth.
There's is a reason most race motors are broken in with dino oil then switch to synthetic after break in.
Synthetic is not synthetic. You can mix synthetic with regular motor oil, but not two synthetics together as different companies use different chemicals.
There's is a reason most race motors are broken in with dino oil then switch to synthetic after break in.
Synthetic is not synthetic. You can mix synthetic with regular motor oil, but not two synthetics together as different companies use different chemicals.
Um, . . . the Evo comes from the factory with Mobil 1 synthetic. Replace your Mobil 1 Syn with Mobil 1 Syn or any other high quality Syn as soon as practical for long engine life. Did anyone say anything about race motors? This couldn't be more off topic.
Apr 17, 2008, 04:03 PM
#18
you can't go wrong with mobil 1 (22 bucks for 5 quarts at wal-mart) and an oem filter (i believe they are made by denso and are excellent). you can go back and forth all day long about which oil and filter combo will work better, but knowing every mile put on the car during testing had m1 and an oem filter means the combo is proven. i don't see a reason to differ.
Apr 17, 2008, 04:42 PM
#20
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anyway i used a k & n filter 1010
oh and i used 5 qts of oil
Apr 17, 2008, 07:48 PM
#21
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the color is not dirt ,just carbon build up. not really damaging your motor. you should check you oil after 1 month it will look the same as now with 3000 miles. Mobile 1 has shown that its oil can take 15,000 without viscosity breakdown or loss of shear. but I agree its cheap insurance to change it alittle more freq. I will be doing it at about 5,000. if you race the crap out of it maybe a little sooner. BMW do oil changes every 10-15,000 and have no warranty issues with motor wear. now that head gasket was a different issue.
Apr 18, 2008, 07:44 AM
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the color is not dirt ,just carbon build up. not really damaging your motor. you should check you oil after 1 month it will look the same as now with 3000 miles. Mobile 1 has shown that its oil can take 15,000 without viscosity breakdown or loss of shear. but I agree its cheap insurance to change it alittle more freq. I will be doing it at about 5,000. if you race the crap out of it maybe a little sooner. BMW do oil changes every 10-15,000 and have no warranty issues with motor wear. now that head gasket was a different issue.
Mobil EP is a 15,000 mile oil in most cases, but if you look at your owners manual, it will say 3000-5000 as this application is hard on the oil and prone to fuel dillution.
AMSOIL SSO 0W-30 is a 35,000 mile change in most applications, but in the EVO it is not recommended to exceed 5000 unless verified by oil analysis.
Doc
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Apr 18, 2008, 01:20 PM
#25
LOL it will NEVER be fram...
also, i work in the automotive manufacturing business, and if vendors ARE changed, there is a LOT of testing done on the parts to make sure they are up to snuff. it's not always the cheapest company that gets the contract either. more often than not it comes down to the working relationship with the vendor. from my experience, i wouldn't worry about mitsu putting out sub-par oem filters, and i'd be surprised if they switched vendors at all.
also, i work in the automotive manufacturing business, and if vendors ARE changed, there is a LOT of testing done on the parts to make sure they are up to snuff. it's not always the cheapest company that gets the contract either. more often than not it comes down to the working relationship with the vendor. from my experience, i wouldn't worry about mitsu putting out sub-par oem filters, and i'd be surprised if they switched vendors at all.
Last edited by machron1; Apr 18, 2008 at 01:34 PM.
Apr 18, 2008, 01:59 PM
#26
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Don't get me wrong, I didn't say that the Mits filter was bad, it will meet their minimum Specs. but the Bean Counters have a big say in it.
I know for a fact that there are filters that will out-perform the OEM Filter hands down and at a cost effective price.
Unless someone has some pics they can post or email me of a current Mits filter cut apart, I might just go buy one and cut it open. Can't tell about the performance of the filter that way, but you will get a general idea of quality by the construction.
Doc
I know for a fact that there are filters that will out-perform the OEM Filter hands down and at a cost effective price.
Unless someone has some pics they can post or email me of a current Mits filter cut apart, I might just go buy one and cut it open. Can't tell about the performance of the filter that way, but you will get a general idea of quality by the construction.
Doc
Apr 18, 2008, 02:31 PM
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Don't get me wrong, I didn't say that the Mits filter was bad, it will meet their minimum Specs. but the Bean Counters have a big say in it.
I know for a fact that there are filters that will out-perform the OEM Filter hands down and at a cost effective price.
Unless someone has some pics they can post or email me of a current Mits filter cut apart, I might just go buy one and cut it open. Can't tell about the performance of the filter that way, but you will get a general idea of quality by the construction.
Doc
I know for a fact that there are filters that will out-perform the OEM Filter hands down and at a cost effective price.
Unless someone has some pics they can post or email me of a current Mits filter cut apart, I might just go buy one and cut it open. Can't tell about the performance of the filter that way, but you will get a general idea of quality by the construction.
Doc
Apr 18, 2008, 03:06 PM
#28
FYI the minimum requirments are simply the standards documented by the design engineers, and meeting those requirements means it is a good part regardless of who makes it. that said, i've personally run tests on parts where examples from each vendor met the specs, and they did go with the cheapest one. however, often the cheapest ones are also the best ones, because it's from a well-run company and their processes are streamlined and they produce superior parts. I've also seen cases where they went with the more expensive one simply because of the long standing relationship with the vendor. I've also seen cases where a long standing vendor was denied a contract because another vendor produced a superior product. i'm not disagreeing with you, i'm just saying there is a lot more consideration than just choosing the cheapest vendor. if that WERE the case, building a vehicle would be a logistical nightmare because sourcing the parts would be too confusing and shortages would be a constant headache. it's much easier to have as few vendors as possible. at any rate, if dr. evo's specs are met, i'm personally satisfied with whatever filter does it. i wouldn't say the oem filter is the best on the market, but if it does the job and i'm gonna toss it in 3k miles...i'm not going to switch unless there is a compelling reason to do so.
EDIT: and i'm CERTAINLY not going to buy a fram filter like the OP suggested just because it's the right size! no way! don't do it!
EDIT2: reminds me of a time we had to justify dropping a vendor for a cheaper one because the more expensive parts were FAILING! had everyone from the chief engineer down watching as a ran the test over and over, including people from the vendor who flew it. it was an impact test, and as the parts failed pieces of them went flying into the people surrounding me. priceless...nothing drives home the point more than being pelted by your own broken parts!
of course the vendor's posse offered to discuss the tests over a nice expensive dinner. i declined. we went with the cheaper, better parts...
EDIT: and i'm CERTAINLY not going to buy a fram filter like the OP suggested just because it's the right size! no way! don't do it!
EDIT2: reminds me of a time we had to justify dropping a vendor for a cheaper one because the more expensive parts were FAILING! had everyone from the chief engineer down watching as a ran the test over and over, including people from the vendor who flew it. it was an impact test, and as the parts failed pieces of them went flying into the people surrounding me. priceless...nothing drives home the point more than being pelted by your own broken parts!
of course the vendor's posse offered to discuss the tests over a nice expensive dinner. i declined. we went with the cheaper, better parts...
Last edited by machron1; Apr 18, 2008 at 03:32 PM.
Apr 18, 2008, 04:45 PM
#29
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i'm just saying there is a lot more consideration than just choosing the cheapest vendor. if that WERE the case, building a vehicle would be a logistical nightmare because sourcing the parts would be too confusing and shortages would be a constant headache.
That is why in most cases, the bid is set for a 3 year run.
i wouldn't say the oem filter is the best on the market, but if it does the job and i'm gonna toss it in 3k miles...i'm not going to switch unless there is a compelling reason to do so.
I look at it as why would I try to save a $1 or 2 on what cleanses the Lifeblood of an expensive machine,.... Almost like saying "Hey Doc, go ahead and give me that half diseased Liver if it will save me a few bucks and work for a while"
EDIT: and i'm CERTAINLY not going to buy a fram filter like the OP suggested just because it's the right size! no way! don't do it!
You got that right !! .... But look at it like this... That Fram will probably meet OEM Specs...regardless of it's poor design.
Something for everyone to ponder.... Rasonable results can be had using a Good quality petroleum oil and a Good oil filter. Superior results can be had by using a Premium Quality Synthetic Oil and a Premium Quality Filter.
That is why in most cases, the bid is set for a 3 year run.
i wouldn't say the oem filter is the best on the market, but if it does the job and i'm gonna toss it in 3k miles...i'm not going to switch unless there is a compelling reason to do so.
I look at it as why would I try to save a $1 or 2 on what cleanses the Lifeblood of an expensive machine,.... Almost like saying "Hey Doc, go ahead and give me that half diseased Liver if it will save me a few bucks and work for a while"
EDIT: and i'm CERTAINLY not going to buy a fram filter like the OP suggested just because it's the right size! no way! don't do it!
You got that right !! .... But look at it like this... That Fram will probably meet OEM Specs...regardless of it's poor design.
Something for everyone to ponder.... Rasonable results can be had using a Good quality petroleum oil and a Good oil filter. Superior results can be had by using a Premium Quality Synthetic Oil and a Premium Quality Filter.
To go along with my last statement... There are several very good Synthetic oils and Premium Filters on the market that will provide very good results.
AMSOIL's Founder and President, Al Amatuzio, had the idea to build the Best oil and filters on the market and In 1972, he brought that dream to life with the First API Rated Synthetic Oil.
AMSOIL, or Synthetics in general, are not for everyone, but they are for the people who want the Best at an affordable price.
Doc
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Apr 18, 2008, 04:51 PM
#30
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COrrect cutting it apart is only 1/2 the info. the filter material is a big part and you would need to compare filtration or at least micron size. I do like the NAPA gold very hefty filter and slightly larger which should give you more surface area. I Will cut this NAPA filter apart at the next oil change and see what the guts look like.
Save the mess, save the trouble.... I can supply you with a cut apart pic of a WIX filter which is a NAPA Gold...
Very well constructed utilizing and actual spring for the by-pass valve instead of a piece of stamped bi-metal, heavy cans and premium quality anti-drain back valves where required.
I can even supply you with the nominal Micron Rating.. Ah heck.. I might as well just give it to you now....
Part Number: 57092
UPC Number: 765809570924
Principal Application: Chrysler Sebring (01-05), Dodge Stratus (01-05), Mitsubishi (99-08)
All Applications
Style: Spin-On Lube Filter
Service: Lube
Type: Full Flow
Media: Paper
Height: 2.944
Outer Diameter Top: 3.243
Outer Diameter Bottom: Closed
Thread Size: 20X1.5 MM
By-Pass Valve Setting-PSI: 14
Anti-Drain Back Valve: Yes
Beta Ratio: 2/20-14/30
Burst Pressure-PSI: 330
Max Flow Rate: 9-11 GPM
Nominal Micron Rating: 19
Doc