Notices
Evo X General Discuss any generalized technical Evo X related topics that may not fit into the other forums.

Oil Filter Time

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Apr 10, 2008, 09:03 AM
  #1  
Evolving Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (10)
 
REDEVO08's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: NJ
Posts: 138
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Oil Filter Time

Hello..Ok so I have about 1500 miles on my car(bought 3/24)..3000 miles is coming up real soon..I do alot of driving so within about a month its going to get some Royal Purple..Does anyone know what Filter #'s we can use..Also how many quarts will I need..Thanks
Old Apr 10, 2008, 09:09 AM
  #2  
Evolving Member
iTrader: (1)
 
beastlytalon's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Dayton, Ohio
Posts: 160
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Congrats on the car. Check the manual for the fluid capacity and just stick with Mobil 1 Synthetic. RP is more expensive and Mobil 1 is tried and true. For oil filter- OEM all the way.
Old Apr 10, 2008, 09:12 AM
  #3  
Evolved Member
iTrader: (3)
 
LancerEVA06's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: South Bend/Mishawaka, IN
Posts: 539
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Dont switch to RP until you get to 10,000 miles. The service advisors and techs at my dealership said not to switch from Mobil 1 to RP, Amsoil, etc until the motor is completely broken in (after about 10,000 miles). I used to run RP but noticed after 3000 miles I lost about a quart. I switched over to Amsoil and I have about 4500 miles... still at the full mark.
Old Apr 10, 2008, 09:17 AM
  #4  
Evolved Member
iTrader: (10)
 
Boostd4's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Bay Area, CA
Posts: 662
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I believe that it's the same filter as the 8/9 correct?
Old Apr 10, 2008, 09:52 AM
  #5  
Evolving Member
 
Stangar's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Palmdale, CA, USA
Posts: 308
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by LancerEVA06
Dont switch to RP until you get to 10,000 miles. The service advisors and techs at my dealership said not to switch from Mobil 1 to RP, Amsoil, etc until the motor is completely broken in (after about 10,000 miles). I used to run RP but noticed after 3000 miles I lost about a quart. I switched over to Amsoil and I have about 4500 miles... still at the full mark.

The sooner the change the better unless you want your NEW engine in your X running in dirty oil with assembly lube, microscopic loose metals, casting materials, residual dirt, etc. It's your car, don't you want to treat it right?

Synthetic is synthetic. There is nothing special and there are no extra additives with the oil fill from the factory. Repeat after me, . . . there is nothing special about the oil fill from the factory. I personally changed my IX at 250 miles.
Old Apr 10, 2008, 10:18 AM
  #6  
Evolving Member
 
jdmpurest's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Fussa, japan
Posts: 137
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Bmw's first oil change is 12500 on the m3's
Old Apr 10, 2008, 10:50 AM
  #7  
Evolving Member
 
Stangar's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Palmdale, CA, USA
Posts: 308
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by jdmpurest
Bmw's first oil change is 12500 on the m3's
No BMW owner keeps his car for more than two years.

It doesn't matter.
Old Apr 10, 2008, 12:26 PM
  #8  
Evolving Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (10)
 
REDEVO08's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: NJ
Posts: 138
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Great Thanks for the feedback..I have always used Mobil 1 and just wanted to give RP a try..I heard good things about it..Either way Mobil 1 has never failed me and I can wait til 10,000..I mean the way I drive I will be at that mark in about 5-6 months..Does anyone know what kind of OEM filters are used..I will just stick to a stock one til Fram comes out with one..
Old Apr 10, 2008, 12:35 PM
  #9  
Evolving Member
 
jdmpurest's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Fussa, japan
Posts: 137
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by REDEVO08
Great Does anyone know what kind of OEM filters are used..I will just stick to a stock one til Fram comes out with one..
O GOD PLEASE NO please please please do not use fram filters, there the worst filters ever. Only use oem mitsubishi filters. O god man please for your sake and everyone elses please don't use 3hit like fram. Check the filter tests, just search on google.

Here's one. http://people.msoe.edu/~yoderw/oilfilterstudy/oilfilters.html#avoid

If you want to buy a good high performance filter buy mobil1 or hamp

Last edited by jdmpurest; Apr 10, 2008 at 12:53 PM.
Old Apr 10, 2008, 12:57 PM
  #10  
Evolving Member
iTrader: (1)
 
1BADEVO8's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Lincolnton, NC
Posts: 191
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
K&N 1010 filter or Mitsu. OEM
Old Apr 10, 2008, 01:23 PM
  #11  
Newbie
 
kts262's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Laurel, MD
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by jdmpurest
O GOD PLEASE NO please please please do not use fram filters, there the worst filters ever. Only use oem mitsubishi filters. O god man please for your sake and everyone elses please don't use 3hit like fram. Check the filter tests, just search on google.

Here's one. http://people.msoe.edu/~yoderw/oilfi...ers.html#avoid

If you want to buy a good high performance filter buy mobil1 or hamp
+1 for Fram being bad.

A friend of mine got his hands on a bunch of filters and using a cutting tool cut them apart to show what they looked like inside. While these are both filters meant for a turbo Impreza it shouldn't be much different between a Mitsu OEM and Fram.

On the left, Subaru OEM. On the right, Fram Extraguard.


He has a lot more here: http://bescaredracing.com/sti/oil/filters/compare/

^ The actual filter inside the Mobil 1 filter looks pretty tiny compared to the OEM one as well.

The OEM Mitsu filter can't be that much, I think a few people mentioned they were $8. I'm sure some dealers (Mitsuparts?) might have them for even less. With my STi dealers wanted 8-9 for them but I got a dozen from a local dealer/NASIOC vendor for $6 each (and that included a crush washer for the drain plug.) The Fram is probably $4-5. It's worth a few more bucks for a quality filter IMHO.
Old Apr 10, 2008, 07:18 PM
  #12  
Evolved Member
iTrader: (4)
 
Joe's Evo X's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Alamogordo, NM
Posts: 702
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
This car is not required an oil change until every 5,000 mile not 3,000. Thats why on you car it says first service at 5,000 miles. And i am going to stick with Mobil 1 oil all the way. No need to change IMO. It is already Synthetic.
Old Apr 13, 2008, 06:21 PM
  #13  
Evolved Member
iTrader: (3)
 
LancerEVA06's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: South Bend/Mishawaka, IN
Posts: 539
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Originally Posted by Stangar
The sooner the change the better unless you want your NEW engine in your X running in dirty oil with assembly lube, microscopic loose metals, casting materials, residual dirt, etc. It's your car, don't you want to treat it right?

Synthetic is synthetic. There is nothing special and there are no extra additives with the oil fill from the factory. Repeat after me, . . . there is nothing special about the oil fill from the factory. I personally changed my IX at 250 miles.
I was refering to only RP... it's awesome oil, but not great for breakin.
Old Apr 16, 2008, 07:36 PM
  #14  
Evolved Member
iTrader: (34)
 
Oil Doc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Maryville, TN
Posts: 936
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
You rarely listen to a mechanic for oil recommendations... Most can't even tell you what the numbers on the label mean...

Synthetic is NOT Synthetic... Just like gas is not gas...

But the Evo comes from the factory with all Synthetic Fluids.. even the engine... There is no break-in period on the OEM engine... Those days are long gone...

Royal Purple is not a great oil and I don't even consider it good... it shears back way too quick.

As far as a Filter... If it is nothing more than a Daily Driver, there is not a better filter made than the AMSOIL EA Series which is conservatively rated at 15 Micron. If you track your car or even run it hard frequently, I recommend the WIX 57092 or NAPA GOLD 7092.. I sell them for $4.50 ea...

K&N filters do not have a great retention capacity and begin to release particulate back into the oil... Fram..... JUNK !

Doc
Old Apr 16, 2008, 08:51 PM
  #15  
Evolving Member
iTrader: (4)
 
danielskshin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Socal
Posts: 359
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Originally Posted by Stangar
The sooner the change the better unless you want your NEW engine in your X running in dirty oil with assembly lube, microscopic loose metals, casting materials, residual dirt, etc. It's your car, don't you want to treat it right?

Synthetic is synthetic. There is nothing special and there are no extra additives with the oil fill from the factory. Repeat after me, . . . there is nothing special about the oil fill from the factory. I personally changed my IX at 250 miles.
This couldn't be further from the truth.

There's is a reason most race motors are broken in with dino oil then switch to synthetic after break in.

Synthetic is not synthetic. You can mix synthetic with regular motor oil, but not two synthetics together as different companies use different chemicals.


Quick Reply: Oil Filter Time



All times are GMT -7. The time now is 08:10 AM.