Oil Filter Time
#1
Evolving Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (10)
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: NJ
Posts: 138
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Oil Filter Time
Hello..Ok so I have about 1500 miles on my car(bought 3/24)..3000 miles is coming up real soon..I do alot of driving so within about a month its going to get some Royal Purple..Does anyone know what Filter #'s we can use..Also how many quarts will I need..Thanks
#2
Evolving Member
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Dayton, Ohio
Posts: 160
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Congrats on the car. Check the manual for the fluid capacity and just stick with Mobil 1 Synthetic. RP is more expensive and Mobil 1 is tried and true. For oil filter- OEM all the way.
#3
Evolved Member
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: South Bend/Mishawaka, IN
Posts: 539
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Dont switch to RP until you get to 10,000 miles. The service advisors and techs at my dealership said not to switch from Mobil 1 to RP, Amsoil, etc until the motor is completely broken in (after about 10,000 miles). I used to run RP but noticed after 3000 miles I lost about a quart. I switched over to Amsoil and I have about 4500 miles... still at the full mark.
#5
Evolving Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Palmdale, CA, USA
Posts: 308
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Dont switch to RP until you get to 10,000 miles. The service advisors and techs at my dealership said not to switch from Mobil 1 to RP, Amsoil, etc until the motor is completely broken in (after about 10,000 miles). I used to run RP but noticed after 3000 miles I lost about a quart. I switched over to Amsoil and I have about 4500 miles... still at the full mark.
The sooner the change the better unless you want your NEW engine in your X running in dirty oil with assembly lube, microscopic loose metals, casting materials, residual dirt, etc. It's your car, don't you want to treat it right?
Synthetic is synthetic. There is nothing special and there are no extra additives with the oil fill from the factory. Repeat after me, . . . there is nothing special about the oil fill from the factory. I personally changed my IX at 250 miles.
Trending Topics
#8
Evolving Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (10)
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: NJ
Posts: 138
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Great Thanks for the feedback..I have always used Mobil 1 and just wanted to give RP a try..I heard good things about it..Either way Mobil 1 has never failed me and I can wait til 10,000..I mean the way I drive I will be at that mark in about 5-6 months..Does anyone know what kind of OEM filters are used..I will just stick to a stock one til Fram comes out with one..
#9
Evolving Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Fussa, japan
Posts: 137
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Here's one. http://people.msoe.edu/~yoderw/oilfilterstudy/oilfilters.html#avoid
If you want to buy a good high performance filter buy mobil1 or hamp
Last edited by jdmpurest; Apr 10, 2008 at 12:53 PM.
#11
O GOD PLEASE NO please please please do not use fram filters, there the worst filters ever. Only use oem mitsubishi filters. O god man please for your sake and everyone elses please don't use 3hit like fram. Check the filter tests, just search on google.
Here's one. http://people.msoe.edu/~yoderw/oilfi...ers.html#avoid
If you want to buy a good high performance filter buy mobil1 or hamp
Here's one. http://people.msoe.edu/~yoderw/oilfi...ers.html#avoid
If you want to buy a good high performance filter buy mobil1 or hamp
A friend of mine got his hands on a bunch of filters and using a cutting tool cut them apart to show what they looked like inside. While these are both filters meant for a turbo Impreza it shouldn't be much different between a Mitsu OEM and Fram.
On the left, Subaru OEM. On the right, Fram Extraguard.
He has a lot more here: http://bescaredracing.com/sti/oil/filters/compare/
^ The actual filter inside the Mobil 1 filter looks pretty tiny compared to the OEM one as well.
The OEM Mitsu filter can't be that much, I think a few people mentioned they were $8. I'm sure some dealers (Mitsuparts?) might have them for even less. With my STi dealers wanted 8-9 for them but I got a dozen from a local dealer/NASIOC vendor for $6 each (and that included a crush washer for the drain plug.) The Fram is probably $4-5. It's worth a few more bucks for a quality filter IMHO.
#13
Evolved Member
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: South Bend/Mishawaka, IN
Posts: 539
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
The sooner the change the better unless you want your NEW engine in your X running in dirty oil with assembly lube, microscopic loose metals, casting materials, residual dirt, etc. It's your car, don't you want to treat it right?
Synthetic is synthetic. There is nothing special and there are no extra additives with the oil fill from the factory. Repeat after me, . . . there is nothing special about the oil fill from the factory. I personally changed my IX at 250 miles.
Synthetic is synthetic. There is nothing special and there are no extra additives with the oil fill from the factory. Repeat after me, . . . there is nothing special about the oil fill from the factory. I personally changed my IX at 250 miles.
#14
Evolved Member
iTrader: (34)
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Maryville, TN
Posts: 936
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
You rarely listen to a mechanic for oil recommendations... Most can't even tell you what the numbers on the label mean...
Synthetic is NOT Synthetic... Just like gas is not gas...
But the Evo comes from the factory with all Synthetic Fluids.. even the engine... There is no break-in period on the OEM engine... Those days are long gone...
Royal Purple is not a great oil and I don't even consider it good... it shears back way too quick.
As far as a Filter... If it is nothing more than a Daily Driver, there is not a better filter made than the AMSOIL EA Series which is conservatively rated at 15 Micron. If you track your car or even run it hard frequently, I recommend the WIX 57092 or NAPA GOLD 7092.. I sell them for $4.50 ea...
K&N filters do not have a great retention capacity and begin to release particulate back into the oil... Fram..... JUNK !
Doc
Synthetic is NOT Synthetic... Just like gas is not gas...
But the Evo comes from the factory with all Synthetic Fluids.. even the engine... There is no break-in period on the OEM engine... Those days are long gone...
Royal Purple is not a great oil and I don't even consider it good... it shears back way too quick.
As far as a Filter... If it is nothing more than a Daily Driver, there is not a better filter made than the AMSOIL EA Series which is conservatively rated at 15 Micron. If you track your car or even run it hard frequently, I recommend the WIX 57092 or NAPA GOLD 7092.. I sell them for $4.50 ea...
K&N filters do not have a great retention capacity and begin to release particulate back into the oil... Fram..... JUNK !
Doc
#15
Evolving Member
iTrader: (4)
The sooner the change the better unless you want your NEW engine in your X running in dirty oil with assembly lube, microscopic loose metals, casting materials, residual dirt, etc. It's your car, don't you want to treat it right?
Synthetic is synthetic. There is nothing special and there are no extra additives with the oil fill from the factory. Repeat after me, . . . there is nothing special about the oil fill from the factory. I personally changed my IX at 250 miles.
Synthetic is synthetic. There is nothing special and there are no extra additives with the oil fill from the factory. Repeat after me, . . . there is nothing special about the oil fill from the factory. I personally changed my IX at 250 miles.
There's is a reason most race motors are broken in with dino oil then switch to synthetic after break in.
Synthetic is not synthetic. You can mix synthetic with regular motor oil, but not two synthetics together as different companies use different chemicals.