Royal Purple
#17
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Can someone please post up factual proof that RP breaks down after 1000 miles in a turbo car?
Where are you guys getting your facts from?
A dyno graph proving 7whp from oil alone? ummm...I'd be crazy not to add it.
Has anyone sent an Oil sample to an oil analysis lab to have it reviewed before claiming that one synthetic oil is superior to another?
#18
even if it added 7 HP. which they didnt go into detail about what they did between runs. did they let it cool down. but we can see 2-5hp changes happen run to run so to me this is very weak improvement. but lets just give them the 7hp. I dont run oil for HP. its used for cooling and lubrication. it needs to have good DATA on that before I would switch from mobil 1. oil analysys would be great. who has 100.00 and 3000 miles to burn up.
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I choose Royal Purple. In the 916 Porsche my shop used to own, and race, we saw a 40 degree (F) difference in operating temperatures going from Redline to Royal Purple on the track. Repeated the process on the street, especially in areas prone to stop-go, bumper to bumper, traffic.
The two main key points I try to point out to people are the differences between RP and other oil makers, is that in all my experience RP enables the car to idle smoother than any other synthetic oil. The difference is noticeable from the moment you start the car. Starting is a tad less energy consuming - requires less time; less cranks, to start the engine.
As for RP purple being responsible for previous engine failures that were blamed on the oil brand, that's just non-sense. The differences between these top end motor oils can literally be trivial and may really be subjective depending on vehicle application, driving style, and weather. Don't take my word for it or theirs for that matter; be a real car enthusiast and try your top picks. It might not be RP; it might, but that is truly the best way to make a good judgment call on which type of oil to consider. Although, don't think by picking a lesser brand will cause you engine to cease. NO! USE LOGIC!
I continue to run RP 20w-50 in my EVO IX MR and have since its first oil change. I change the oil before 3,000 are up, and I use high quality Purolator (sp?) Pure One oil filters. I currently have 33,000 miles on this engine and not a single hiccup. I also run RP through the remainder of my car where applicable, i.e. rear diff, and tranny.
I have run 20w-50 on my 97 Supra TT since the day I bought it. Currently it has about 73,000 miles, which is about 40K that I have clocked onto the odometer myself. Need I remind you it can be daily driven (if you have patience, a very well trained and precise left leg, the clutch is....well let's just say my dad Z06 leaves me wondering how) and is currently running just shy of 600whp (low boost, 93 oct) on an HKS Twin Turbo kit, and the entire bottom end is OEM Toyota.
My second favorite oil is Amsoil in case you’re wondering. My least favorite is Mobil 1. The parts of my family that are into their vehicles - whether it be modding, maintaining, or restoring- also, use RP.
The only cars within my immediate family that continue to use Mobil 1 are the AMGs. If you have ever owned a Benz, it’s really BEST to stay with what is recommended by the manual. From my parents' experiences, when you go astray from the recommendations of the owner's manual, you need only wait a short time to realize why they are called recommendations. Mercedes often uses custom oils with varying additives that are to be used within the engine depending on the mileage, and operating environment. Adding any other oil can cause problems down the road- problems that carry price tags that would make you blind (for instance, Kompessor V8 engines run about $53,000 bare. JUST THE ENGINE. E63 6.2litre engines are currently priced separately at just shy of 60K. To give you some type of idea of how over priced Benz parts are the new LS7 Z06 engine is price at about 12K.)
The two main key points I try to point out to people are the differences between RP and other oil makers, is that in all my experience RP enables the car to idle smoother than any other synthetic oil. The difference is noticeable from the moment you start the car. Starting is a tad less energy consuming - requires less time; less cranks, to start the engine.
As for RP purple being responsible for previous engine failures that were blamed on the oil brand, that's just non-sense. The differences between these top end motor oils can literally be trivial and may really be subjective depending on vehicle application, driving style, and weather. Don't take my word for it or theirs for that matter; be a real car enthusiast and try your top picks. It might not be RP; it might, but that is truly the best way to make a good judgment call on which type of oil to consider. Although, don't think by picking a lesser brand will cause you engine to cease. NO! USE LOGIC!
I continue to run RP 20w-50 in my EVO IX MR and have since its first oil change. I change the oil before 3,000 are up, and I use high quality Purolator (sp?) Pure One oil filters. I currently have 33,000 miles on this engine and not a single hiccup. I also run RP through the remainder of my car where applicable, i.e. rear diff, and tranny.
I have run 20w-50 on my 97 Supra TT since the day I bought it. Currently it has about 73,000 miles, which is about 40K that I have clocked onto the odometer myself. Need I remind you it can be daily driven (if you have patience, a very well trained and precise left leg, the clutch is....well let's just say my dad Z06 leaves me wondering how) and is currently running just shy of 600whp (low boost, 93 oct) on an HKS Twin Turbo kit, and the entire bottom end is OEM Toyota.
My second favorite oil is Amsoil in case you’re wondering. My least favorite is Mobil 1. The parts of my family that are into their vehicles - whether it be modding, maintaining, or restoring- also, use RP.
The only cars within my immediate family that continue to use Mobil 1 are the AMGs. If you have ever owned a Benz, it’s really BEST to stay with what is recommended by the manual. From my parents' experiences, when you go astray from the recommendations of the owner's manual, you need only wait a short time to realize why they are called recommendations. Mercedes often uses custom oils with varying additives that are to be used within the engine depending on the mileage, and operating environment. Adding any other oil can cause problems down the road- problems that carry price tags that would make you blind (for instance, Kompessor V8 engines run about $53,000 bare. JUST THE ENGINE. E63 6.2litre engines are currently priced separately at just shy of 60K. To give you some type of idea of how over priced Benz parts are the new LS7 Z06 engine is price at about 12K.)
#20
I've been running Royal Purple 5w-30 on my neon since 2003. I've clocked in over 120K miles on her to this day and the engine reliabilty & performance is rock solid. Car runs smoother, idles alot better and I gets better fuel mileage compared to other SRT's that run Mobil1, Syntec, etc.
I've never heard Oil causing an Engine to blow though
I've never heard Oil causing an Engine to blow though
#22
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Thanks for yr thorough reply SHIFTT IX MR, yr write up is very knowledgable and well written. I decided to go with the Royal Purple today. I can honestly say, that yes, from the moment I started up my car and drove it out of the parking lot, it felt better.
I am going to have to agree with SHIFT about the better idling. As many X owners have learned, even thought the dealer flashes have fixed the vast majority of the idle issues, there can still be slight issues at times. I drove almost an hr and a half home, in stop and go traffic, and the idling was perfect, and any stutter b4 was gone. (also an FYI to evo X owners with idle issues with the AC on, it may be due to the fan interferring with the maf sensor, and I believe Bushcer is making a shield fix for this)The car did feel better WOT in 2-5th as well. I don't feel that the 100 dollar price tag to upgrade to RP is a big deal every 3000 miles. If you drive an Evo, it should be expected that things will be more pricey than on a civic,lol. And to mksevo, I don't use oil for hp either, but if its an added benefit with an oil change why wouldn't you, THAT to me seems a no brainer. To many evo X owners that experience idle stutter occasionaly, may benefit from the switch. I added it, and in my opinion, it is a nice improvement. These are just my 2 cents, and I hope this helps any other evo X owner out there with their choices in the future
Thanks
I am going to have to agree with SHIFT about the better idling. As many X owners have learned, even thought the dealer flashes have fixed the vast majority of the idle issues, there can still be slight issues at times. I drove almost an hr and a half home, in stop and go traffic, and the idling was perfect, and any stutter b4 was gone. (also an FYI to evo X owners with idle issues with the AC on, it may be due to the fan interferring with the maf sensor, and I believe Bushcer is making a shield fix for this)The car did feel better WOT in 2-5th as well. I don't feel that the 100 dollar price tag to upgrade to RP is a big deal every 3000 miles. If you drive an Evo, it should be expected that things will be more pricey than on a civic,lol. And to mksevo, I don't use oil for hp either, but if its an added benefit with an oil change why wouldn't you, THAT to me seems a no brainer. To many evo X owners that experience idle stutter occasionaly, may benefit from the switch. I added it, and in my opinion, it is a nice improvement. These are just my 2 cents, and I hope this helps any other evo X owner out there with their choices in the future
Thanks
#24
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Knowledgable statement, backed up with factual data, NOT opinion.....Awesome. I also don't like the color white, so no one buy white cars, because they are crap, that makes about as much sense.
#26
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Thank you. It is quite factual since that facts are allready out there. And maybe if you did a little research you wouldn't be using RP in your Evo. You made your educated decision based on "adds 9hp!".
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Yr welcome. And yes, I did make my decision based on factual data. Point is, use what you want, I have my facts, and am using what I want. My input was to help other Evo X owners who were sitting on the fence with their oil decisions. I didn't start this thread to start a flame war with someone who posts on threads to find glory through opinions, hiding behind the aninimity of the internet. Maybe if you scroll up and actually read the comments posted by other evom members, and dyno numbers verified through reputable companies, versus, yr "Eneos or AMSOIL. Don't put that Royal Purple crap in your Evo," unvalidated opinion, will you realize yr ignorance. I tried to find the "royal purple crap in yr evo" data but couldn't find it....
And because its seems like one of us will have to end this thread with the upper hand and not sound crass and uneducated, I will stop now. Also, I'm sure yr fellow evom members would love to thank you for posting yr rebuke versus their actual hands on experience with the product.
And because its seems like one of us will have to end this thread with the upper hand and not sound crass and uneducated, I will stop now. Also, I'm sure yr fellow evom members would love to thank you for posting yr rebuke versus their actual hands on experience with the product.
Last edited by agent45; Jul 19, 2008 at 07:10 PM.
#29
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I've ran RP in my '03 Evo, '05 Evo, and it's now in my '08 Evo and no engine failures here. My 996 911 ran Mobil 1 and the engine grenaded, so I guess nobody should run Mobil 1, right?