+100 Dido. I'm looking into lowering my seat. And it's a bummer our steering wheels don't telescope. I'm still trying to find a company that sells extenders that fit our steering wheels.

Pfffff...b

 

I must do this for my wife she's 5'3" and I saw that pillow from brookstone online.I wondered how much the pillow can add.

 

+1

Always make sure you know what you're doing when you modify safety systems in a vehicle. Pay attention to the rating of the bolts used. Someone more knowledgeable than I would have to comment on what type of rating you're looking for. Jid2 might be able to give some insights on this.

 

Not an expert on bolts, but...the factory bolts are Grade 7. The ones that I used to replace them are Grade 8.8. (My store carried Grade 5, and 8.8)

Here's a guide which shows the ratings on various Grades...

http://www.tessco.com/yts/customerse...bolt_grade.pdf

An 8.8 is rated at 120,000 psi. And the seat is held by 4 bolts. Seems like there's enough headroom to allow for more safety than what's provided by Mistubishi's choice.

There's an even higher class of bolts which start with an "AN" rating which are aircraft grade bolts - which are $18-$24 each.

 

Nice find with the info on the bolt ratings.

Again, I'm not an expert in this area, but because the seat brackets are no longer flush to the floor pan, the forces on the bolt are multiplied, so definitely will need a higher rated bolt, but not sure how much higher.

Think of it like trying to break a stick over your leg. Which way is easier - holding the stick in a grip just wide enough to clear on either side of your leg, or at the very ends of the stick? With the seat and floor pan exerting force on a wider span of bolt (the area represented by the spacer), you're multiplying the forces being applied to the bolt. Whether the additional force is within the bolt tolerances is beyond my limited knowledge.

The spacer idea is great as long as it doesn't compromise the safety of the seats.

 

Bumping for additional information.

I recently traded my VIII in on an X and I'm having real issues with visibility. I put some towels in a pillowcase and did some experimentation, and it looks like I'm most comfortable when I raise the rear 2" and the front 1" (not a fan of how much rake the seats have stock).

I found several threads with people discussing this issue, but the only installed pics I saw involved bolts and spacers from a home improvement store. I don't have the engineering background to properly evaluate that solution, but it makes me nervous.

Threads I found:

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...eat-rails.html
(Has photos of some robust looking boxed steel sections used for raising bus seats.)

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...-x-recaro.html

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ja...ils-evo-x.html

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...postion-x.html

Anyone got anything to add on this subject?

Thanks!

 

i am an engineer . and a "mechanic" for an aerospace company.

i raised the seat in my '10 X using longer bolts and 1 1/2" steel stand-offs.

there will be no issues as long as high strength hardware is used.

 

quick question. How does one remove the plastic cover over the bolts on the floor? They doesnt want to move at all

thanx

Mart

 

BUMP!! So its been about 4 years since Web9 raised the seats. Anynews on how it's been the last few years? Comfort/Safety wise? I really want to raise my seats but no mullah for new seats. This seems like a good alternative. Just want to make sure it won't be compromising the seat.

 

Whats up guys. been driving around in my evo thinking I would like to sit up a little higher and was checking out some posts from a while ago and seeing people who have done the same thing I want to. I however didn't think the little dowel's that were added looked very safe so I took my own approach at it. I took a trip to my local metal supply store and picked up a 12in. piece of 1 inch diameter round stock steel. The larger diameter steel spacers put less stress on the bolts that attach your seat to the floor. took it to a machine shop and had them cut 2 pieces at one inch for the front and 2 pieces at 1.5 inches for the rear then drill a 10mm hole through the middle of them. They turned out perfect ! you'll see in the attached pics, I then had to do some searching around town to find some longer/stronger bolts. Specifically M10x1.25 class 10.9 which is equal to Grade 8, I picked up two that were 50mm long for the front and two that were long for the rear. I love the final result and they feel and look sturdy as ever!

parts list.
1" diameter steel round stock $6
4 bolts $12
4 washers $2
machine shop labor $40

Here come the pics!

 

I am only 5'3 and I can drive the car just fine .. Your a ***** .. Go get a Honda

 

And looking at your pictures ..
You raised the seat and now the dowel pin is not in the hole .. I am sure that dowel pin helps keep the seat in place I case of a accident ..
Doesn't look to safe what you did ..
You might as well unhook the air bags and remove your crash beams ..

 

Pretty sure it's the bolts that hold the seat in place instead of the half inch dowel pins sticking down haha. They may not be in the exact location where the dowel pin would put then but I can guarentee the seat isn't going anywhere.

 

And no need to be a richard man. I'm 6 ft and don't like having the seat all the way back And arms fully extended

 

The 2015 is height adjustable for the driver, I like my 2015 seats!