I would... and have them email you or fax or something a copy of the offer they gave you, so you have it in writing.

 

Thanks for the info guys. Ill pm you my email wildcat.

 

I just sent it to you.

If anyone else would want the excel spreadsheet let me know.



Uploaded with ImageShack.us

That is what it looks like. It uses formulas for the payment amounts where if you change a few values everything automatically updates. That way you can know what value you need to get to to get an ammount you can afford.

Let me know.

 

Funny you mention invoice, cause I was not going to pay more than that, and they quoted me $37,733 (so 39K OTD). I still think I could squeeze a little more, but no need to be picky.

I hope I can get a loan...first auto loan for 40k would probably make any bank start to ponder.

Good luck waiting on your car! I know mine has been a PITA. What's your ETA?

 

you can generally get a little less than invoice based on Mitsu deals as well as dealer incentives. So I would push for less, and see if you can get it. if not make the deal if you are comfortable with it.

It might be difficult to get approved depending on your credit score. I am at a little over a 700 so mine is decent, and one dealership said they got me approved for 3.9% but probably could have talked them down.

Mine is finally in the states. So glad it is. They are bringing one in just for me in hopes they can make the deal I want. They say they think they can, so we will see. I was hoping this weekend, but its not looking good right now... so hopefully next weekend... . Good luck on yours too.

 

If I'm looking to build a car and negotiate an OTD price. How do I approach the sales team?

 

Do your research. You know what you can afford. Go in. Tell them what you are interested in. Get a test drive. Put your offer out there. If they don't want to go for it just get up say thanks for your time and leave. If they really want the sale, they will come back with a counter offer or accept your deal. Don't be expecting to get a new Evo for 20K though, have realistic thoughts.

 

This post is the most true, do your research , dont expect and Evo for $20k , have realistic thoughts.

This whole thread has become very funny to me, We have alot of experts out there and I imagine very few of you know whether you have gotten a good deal or understand that these give a price and walk tactics shouldnt work in today's market.
I am an expert ,I am sure I have sold more cars than any of you have ever bought. Do your research, If a dealer gives you a price of invoice or below and you try to pull that "ohh I was talking out the door" most of the time you are going to leave disappointed. I am not losing thousands of dollars so you can pound your chest and say I got the big bad dealer. Not all of us are out to screw you. I have made many steps to prove this, SO once again. A price of $1000 under invoice before the incentives + your tax,tag,and fee's. The biggest place for rip off is the dealer fee's and finance office.

But most of all, a good deal is all part of perception just be happy with your car, if you don't think you got a good deal it is just making you miserable.

The best thing I can tell you negotiate price not payment ever.
Happy hunting,
Travis

 

I agree the walking out thing shouldn't work. But it does at times. Obviously like we both said, its only if you are hitting a reasonable number. If you are a little less than what the dealer offers and you walk, they will generally come down that little bit. If you are trying to still get another 5K less, its a different story and it won't work. I have been involved with car sales and worked and talked with many car salesmen, just in conversation as friends. I have been told what there is to play around with on a sale, so I know how it works.

Generally though, the walking out thing is just trying to be a badass and make you feel like you win if they call you back and accept your deal.

Just don't go in having unrealistic expectations.

 

WOW... that looks so similar to mine! I love excel because of the power it provides you over one cell. You can change one little value to trigger an update in calculation in multiple other cells. This is EXACTLY the type of information you need to know before buying anything expensive that will be financed. Know your numbers before walking in, this way when they establish a finance rate and tell you what your estimated payment will be, you'll already know if they're pulling a fast one. You can use that against them when you catch it because it's embarrassing to have an irate and loud customer in the showroom complaining about wanting to make a deal without all the fees. Even $20 off in calculation is huge for a 60 month payment. Of course, it goes without saying that your calculations better be correct if not then you can't blame them for being correct (that's assuming they're being honest and not adding hidden crap into your loan.)

 

yeah $20 a month more on a 60 month loan is $1200 in the end... that is a big deal.

 

I agree with most of what you're saying, but unfortunately most people in your business give me a very slimy feeling. Like that crap about "let me talk to my manager" - I tell them you have 10 minutes to return or I'm leaving. I've had dealers try to keep me in their showroom offices for extended periods of time, and I know it's a sleazy tactic to keep you from shopping around elsewhere. In this case though, I doubt this happens much with an evo as they're not many around.

Also, you hit the nail on the head 100% about negotiating price vs. payment and that the rip offs are in the fees and finance office. My $33.1k out the door included a $200 scotchguard crap that they had already put on (supposedly.) Anyway, it was $33.3k and since I flew in, I just informed them that they needed to work it into the deal as $200 is more than my return ticket + cab fare. They worked it in.

Agreed on having realistic expectations before any attempt to walk will work. I also think these tactics will work much better on a 2011 if you can find one on the lot. Many of my colleagues make deals over the phone until they get solid numbers, then build a spreadsheet based off of that. They call and schedule a time to pick up the vehicle and let the dealer know they have 30 minutes to get it done... this quickly turns into 1 hour because the disclosure always comes back with fees. Anyway, some say they get loud about this and demand they stick to the numbers discussed on the phone - while simultaneously complaining about the dealer exceeding the 30 minute timeframe... "I WORK FOR A LIVING AND DON'T HAVE TIME FOR YOUR GAMES!!!" is something that seems to work around these parts especially if you're very loud about it. Happy hunting guys.

EDIT: I had to add that after walking out, answering the phone to hear the salesperson on the phone literally tell me "come pick up your fu$%ing car" was euphoric when I bought the RX8.
Another note for you guys financing... I've learned the city you buy in affects your rate. In Austin, my credit was well "So, SO." In San Antonio, it was described as "stellar." The best minivan deal I could get was for a demo in Austin with 4k miles and identically equipped at around $29k out the door - financing was 8%. I ended up buying in SA for much lower, with 42 miles on the odo and half the interest rate quoted in Austin.

 

My credit is over 700 as well, but I've never had a previous loan. That's really my only concern.

Good luck with the car! I've got about 4 weeks before mine gets stateside . Plenty of time to work my angles for a loan though

 

The good thing about credit is that you dont have to go through the dealer to get the best rate. We do offten beat the rate you get from your bank, it's not because "we do so much volume" its because you bank was trying to make money on you as well... There are limits on how much and intrest rate can be marked up, I understand getting a "good deal" but if you think a dealer can sell you a car at cost, give you your loan at buy rate, and not make any proffit than you should contact Mitsubishi yourself and ask them to ship the car directly to your house, let me know how far that gets you. This is not on any reflection for NOSintake, I have had several conversations with him on how to get the best possible deal he can. As far as credit I can tell you Mitsubishi's structure for approvals.
The only way to get the best rate through Mitsubishi is to be a 730 equifax score on an auto specific beacon. Have at least 5 lines of credit in which student loans or authorized user account do not count. Certain dealers that do enough volume with MMCA like I do get certian privliges like tier bumps so if you do not qualify for that we may be able to get an exception made.

Hope this helps
Travis

 

Yeah being loud can help or hinder you... A dealership doesn't want someone being loud about the poor customer care they are getting. But that means they might just ask you to leave instead of making more of a deal...


At a 700 you should at least get a 3.9% but that is with other loans, etc on your record... Obviously I cannot promise you what you will get as it will depend, but thats what I was offered.

It sucks waiting to get the car to show up, I know the feeling. I have been waiting since October, and all the while my trade in is getting more and more miles on it, which sucks for me and is hurting my chance at getting the deal made.