Somebody please comfort me!!
#46
I have owned several car a 98 maxima 95 maxima 03 wrx and a 06 civic si a 08 evox and I love the x every car has it's flaws like my si it had a rev hang issue that drove me nuts no car is perfect and I think with cars as good as thye are any more they all start one turn etc that the flaws are more glaring and anotuin just enjoy the car I love my x and don not regret buying it yes I will tune it and maybe some issueds will be aleaved but either way it's like a person it will have flaws just like your driving technique.
#48
Tuning as a fix for factory issues has been bothering me. Mitsubishi isn't stupid. I suspect they have a good reason for the fat tune. Is it to ward off detonation, maybe a smog thing, or something else? What bothers me is when we just chuck it, figuring we know more than the factory engineers, I wonder if we're unknowingly taking a risk.
#49
I would check spark plugs cuz it sounds like your spark is getting blown out. Check and regap. If it doesn't work retune. That is the only way.
Also, majority of people that post on forums is cuz they need help with something like something is wrong and they can't fix it so they need other opinions. That's why most news you hear are bad news. You never hear from people "oh my car is running great, why is it running great?" NEVER
Also, majority of people that post on forums is cuz they need help with something like something is wrong and they can't fix it so they need other opinions. That's why most news you hear are bad news. You never hear from people "oh my car is running great, why is it running great?" NEVER
This.
#51
#52
I have owned several car a 98 maxima 95 maxima 03 wrx and a 06 civic si a 08 evox and I love the x every car has it's flaws like my si it had a rev hang issue that drove me nuts no car is perfect and I think with cars as good as thye are any more they all start one turn etc that the flaws are more glaring and anotuin just enjoy the car I love my x and don not regret buying it yes I will tune it and maybe some issueds will be aleaved but either way it's like a person it will have flaws just like your driving technique.
At first I did the same thing.. Every problem that came up I'd be like, oh yea that's okay/normal, or whatever. It's what a lot of buyers do to justify their larger purchases for problems they know they can only accept.
A different mentality plays in when you HAVE to accept something vs. having a choice. And then they come up with every possible scenario in their mind to justify why that problem is actually okay in the end.
I'm sure everyone who ran into the problem without knowing something could be done with an aftermarket tune was like "ooh I like that my car stutters under acceleration, that's unique." I'm sure most would have at least mentioned something to their dealer.
If I bought a 60 in LCD tv and every once in a while the screen went blurry, and all of the other same models did the same thing, I wouldn't say "well that's normal," I'd go get my ****ing money back. No car on the market today should ever require to be tuned in order to function the way it was meant to function.
Also, it's this mentality that facilitates manufacturers to sit on their bums. They see that the general populous does nothing, or justifies it in some manner. Because of the sheer number of complaints about the factory tune, they HAD to do something about it. In similar instance, if everyone says that the increased weight is okay because the s-awc balances it out, why would Mitsu put more R&D into weight savings? Subaru owners had massive complaints/showed by not purchasing the car in 2008, and Subaru immediately made necessary improvements. I would just want my car to have the best, highest quality/reliability
To the OP, I suggest using the lemon law as many have, or just cutting your losses and moving on as I did
#53
^^^ While I completely agree with you, why not spend the $500-$650 on a flash. I realize you shouldn’t have to pay extra money to have your car run properly but if you are this upset/worried about it then go get a flash. This will accomplish a lot, not only will the car run much smoother but you will gain approximatly 30-60 WHP and better gas mileage. Lasly, the flash should also solve this whole fuel dillution problem that some people seem to be experienceing.
Seems like a no brainer to me, as you will never gain as much horsepower for such a cheap price.
Just my two cents
~Ryan
Seems like a no brainer to me, as you will never gain as much horsepower for such a cheap price.
Just my two cents
~Ryan
To the OP: the issue is not detonation, it's misfires. This occurs from the overly rich A/F ratios of the stock tune and is easily fixed by a reflash. I agree that mitsu should put a much better quality tune on these things, but they don't and they wont. There is nothing wrong with your car, and it's not defective. Like this guy said, a reflash will solve many issues and provide many benefits all in one fell swoop, and isn't that expensive. If you can't afford to buy a reflash, then at least pick up a high flow drop in filter like a K&N and that'll lean out the A/F ratios enough to make the car run a bit better in the meantime.
#54
Tuning as a fix for factory issues has been bothering me. Mitsubishi isn't stupid. I suspect they have a good reason for the fat tune. Is it to ward off detonation, maybe a smog thing, or something else? What bothers me is when we just chuck it, figuring we know more than the factory engineers, I wonder if we're unknowingly taking a risk.
This effectively breaks down the oil and causes the oil to no longer provide proper lubrication properties, which can result in excess wear of the cylinder walls, worn rings, failed rod bearings, etc. It also causes spark plugs to get fouled out from excess carbon build up, only further causing misfires. Because running this rich is terrible for power output, mitsu's pathetic way of trying to make up for this is to run a crap load of timing. The problem with this is that no amount of timing can make up for A/F ratios that are this rich, and it increases the chances of knock. This is why it is fairly common to see datalogs of COMPLETELY STOCK evo 8s, 9s, and especially Xs, with a couple of counts of knock at high rpms.
You want to talk about safety? A tuned X with no knock is safer than a slower, stock X with knock. Now, I don't have time to educate you on all the intricacies of proper engine management techniques, but trust me, you are increasing safety by tuning your car and gaiing stolen power back in the process. If you want to learn more about tuning, you can contact me by PM and I will give you links to threads and articles that are a good place for a beginner to start.
Last edited by STi2EvoX; Jan 12, 2009 at 09:49 PM.
#56
+1
To the OP: the issue is not detonation, it's misfires. This occurs from the overly rich A/F ratios of the stock tune and is easily fixed by a reflash. I agree that mitsu should put a much better quality tune on these things, but they don't and they wont. There is nothing wrong with your car, and it's not defective. Like this guy said, a reflash will solve many issues and provide many benefits all in one fell swoop, and isn't that expensive. If you can't afford to buy a reflash, then at least pick up a high flow drop in filter like a K&N and that'll lean out the A/F ratios enough to make the car run a bit better in the meantime.
To the OP: the issue is not detonation, it's misfires. This occurs from the overly rich A/F ratios of the stock tune and is easily fixed by a reflash. I agree that mitsu should put a much better quality tune on these things, but they don't and they wont. There is nothing wrong with your car, and it's not defective. Like this guy said, a reflash will solve many issues and provide many benefits all in one fell swoop, and isn't that expensive. If you can't afford to buy a reflash, then at least pick up a high flow drop in filter like a K&N and that'll lean out the A/F ratios enough to make the car run a bit better in the meantime.
This makes a lot of sense. However a reflash voids the warranty instantly. So the choice is up to you.
#57
#58
Your issue DOES NOT sound like missfire. I know many seem convenced that it is missfire but a couple simple facts lead me more towards det than missfire:
1. Problem gets better or worse depending on which brand gas you use
(This screams det or more correctly knock retard)
2. Problem gets better in colder temps
You need to get on a proper dyno and find out what AFR you are running in stock trim to rule out a fuel supply issue. My VIII had a bad injector from the factory, took forever to figure out but in the end A bright flashlight and looking down the plug holes at the piston tops (3 were black one was just a little tarnished) pointed out that one of the injectors was not working properly.
If it were me I would do the following in this order:
1. run out most of the gas then throw in 5 gallons of 100 octane unleaded.
(if the issue goes away or gets a lot better, your issue is det, proceed with checking the fuel system for supply issues)
2. Change the plugs and check the old ones or have the dealer do it.
3. Get to a dyno and pay for a baseline with AFR and boost plots
(should tell you if anything is ammis with the engine like low power, lean afr, too much boost, etc)
Post up the results and let us think it over some more with added data.
1. Problem gets better or worse depending on which brand gas you use
(This screams det or more correctly knock retard)
2. Problem gets better in colder temps
You need to get on a proper dyno and find out what AFR you are running in stock trim to rule out a fuel supply issue. My VIII had a bad injector from the factory, took forever to figure out but in the end A bright flashlight and looking down the plug holes at the piston tops (3 were black one was just a little tarnished) pointed out that one of the injectors was not working properly.
If it were me I would do the following in this order:
1. run out most of the gas then throw in 5 gallons of 100 octane unleaded.
(if the issue goes away or gets a lot better, your issue is det, proceed with checking the fuel system for supply issues)
2. Change the plugs and check the old ones or have the dealer do it.
3. Get to a dyno and pay for a baseline with AFR and boost plots
(should tell you if anything is ammis with the engine like low power, lean afr, too much boost, etc)
Post up the results and let us think it over some more with added data.
Last edited by Mad_SB; Jan 14, 2009 at 12:11 PM.
#59
Your issue DOES NOT sound like missfire. I know many seem convenced that it is missfire but a few simple facts lead me more towards det than missfire:
1. Problem gets better or worse depending on which brand gas you use
(This screams det or more correctly knock retard)
2. Problem gets better in colder temps
3. AP tune did not sort it out
Well, #3 I can't lean on too much as I have never been impressed with a cobb base map.
You need to get on a proper dyno and find out what AFR you are running in stock trim to rule out a fuel supply issue. My VIII had a bad injector from the factory, took forever to figure out but in the end A bright flashlight and looking down the plug holes at the piston tops (3 were black one was just a little tarnished) pointed out that one of the injectors was not working properly.
If it were me I would do the following in this order:
1. run out most of the gas then throw in 5 gallons of 100 octane unleaded.
(if the issue goes away or gets a lot better, your issue is det, proceed with checking the fuel system for supply issues)
2. Change the plugs and check the old ones or have the dealer do it.
3. Get to a dyno and pay for a baseline with AFR and boost plots
(should tell you if anything is ammis with the engine like low power, lean afr, too much boost, etc)
Post up the results and let us think it over some more with added data.
1. Problem gets better or worse depending on which brand gas you use
(This screams det or more correctly knock retard)
2. Problem gets better in colder temps
3. AP tune did not sort it out
Well, #3 I can't lean on too much as I have never been impressed with a cobb base map.
You need to get on a proper dyno and find out what AFR you are running in stock trim to rule out a fuel supply issue. My VIII had a bad injector from the factory, took forever to figure out but in the end A bright flashlight and looking down the plug holes at the piston tops (3 were black one was just a little tarnished) pointed out that one of the injectors was not working properly.
If it were me I would do the following in this order:
1. run out most of the gas then throw in 5 gallons of 100 octane unleaded.
(if the issue goes away or gets a lot better, your issue is det, proceed with checking the fuel system for supply issues)
2. Change the plugs and check the old ones or have the dealer do it.
3. Get to a dyno and pay for a baseline with AFR and boost plots
(should tell you if anything is ammis with the engine like low power, lean afr, too much boost, etc)
Post up the results and let us think it over some more with added data.