no0odlez623

Its a long read...but it would be really cool if anyone could help me out.

So a week ago I randomly popped off my oil cap and took a wiff.... dont ask why
but I did... Anyway I found that my oil had that distinct gas smell that cant be good.... so I changed the oil ASAP. A week and 250 miles later I pop open the oil cap and guess what.... IT SMELLS LIKE GAS! Ever since the oil change I have been warming up my car before I even go past 3.5k rpm so I dont understand why it my oil would smell like that after 250 miles!

I do not remember my oil smelling like this at my 15k oil change, but then again never really smelled it. It has been pretty cold in Florida lately around the 30s in the mornings, could that have something to do with the problem? Am I Warming up the car wrong? (should I warm up the car before even putting it in gear?) Is there anything I can do besides getting a tune? or am I just royally screwed ?

I was reading the fuel in oil thread someone started not too long ago and a member posted something up about how an improper break in could form an improper seal or something. My dad drove my Evo back when had between 150-300 miles and during that time I KNOW he punched it to red line more then one occasion ( yeah I dont think he knows about a "break in period" but he paid for the car and he is stubborn as hell)... After I got the car back I never went over 5k rpm untill 1000 miles and then I changed the oil and its been an oil change ever 3k to 3.5k miles.


This is the post from the fellow evom member I was talking about.
"I wouldn't worry too much about your oil's color as far as fuel getting into it. If it does get in there, all you need to do is smell it. As far as how it can get into it, pretty much a bad ring seat or up through the head( with carbs, they could also be the reason, but I've never seen FI fill the cylinders with fuel like a stuck float could). Usually with cars with really low miles, it's the rings. Bad break-in ny the owner is usually the culprit. In the rare occasion that the factory's at fault, it usually is from incompatible cylinder/liner and ring materials. I've seen one instance of a bad ring seat from the factory, but as with the aforementioned reason, numerous vehicles usually are effected by this.
Basically if yours is the only one, or one of an insanely low number, it's your responsibility. I wouldn't worry about it however, as if it comes to the point where you have to have your motor torn down, if it's your fault, the cylinders will be glazed, and possibly the cross-hatch will still look fresh(from the bad break-in), which is easy to spot. This means the evidence they would have against you would basically be indisputable, so you'd know for certain they weren't pulling one over on you."

KPerez

You need to read the thread below carefully for therein you will find that the probable cause for the fuel invasion in your engine oil is from the rediculously high A/F ratio's under load as a result of Mitsu's OEM factory "tune". To resolve you will need to get an aftermarket tune that will raise the A/F ratios to 11's. Yes, it will cost you ~$700 for Ecutek reflash but this will resolve the engine oil dilution issue. That said, you will find that we are still waiting for confirmation from an aftermarket tuned engine that has had an oil analysis performed to establish the <2% fuel dilution.

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...l-problem.html

Later, Ken

dek0026

op you are believing misinformation. if the fuel in oil issue was from improper break in then we all must have broken in our engines improperly.

gizmotoy

Preliminary results show the problem is widespread, and I know I broke mine in flawlessly, so it's not restricted only to improper break-in. We're still waiting on more data, but it seems unlikely to me that a redline run or two in an otherwise light break-in period would do significant damage in the 150-300 mile range.

Noize

iTrader: (24)

Follow that link.